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Beau's official Cruiser Story

Thanks for the photos!

Embarrassing really, a truck that can go anywhere and you can't get out of the garden!

I used to have the same problem, my place is on a hill and in the wet the clay soil used to turn to mayo just on the surface. If the tyres cut the grass away I'd be sliding around with all 4 wheels turning, but me going nowhere!

On the mountain, I can go anywhere I want !
 
First time i drove into your wet garden Clive i was pulling a trailer when the front wheel spun and several brain cells died in shock :wtf: as you say so many times i have looked at a obstacle climb and thought to myself "no chance" only for my truck to clear it with ease . I don't think Beau was stuck in the garden he just couldn't pull the trailer out of its sink hole , is that right ?

Dave the rear diff lock puts your truck in a different league when things get tricky , i rarely need mine so forget to use it but when the truck stops i flick that switch and wonder why it stopped at all because it continues with such ease .
 
I believe it Shayne and it's a job I will get round to at some point. I've got a 2nd hand front locker from an 80 series (which fits the 90 rear axle I'm told and is a lot cheaper and better condition 2nd hand) that is waiting for me to fit. I just can't quite face the hideous mess - there's bits of cog visible where the casing has fallen apart and wires, all melded into a fused lump. I just know it will be a swine

I've never been stuck on a lane, although I needed a run up on some of the Lake District rock crawls. However I'd really like to fit it as charging and bouncing might get you over, but doesn't do the aging truck any favours. As my rear diff casing could tell you :oops:
 
Yeah, I wasn't stuck myself. But I couldn't drag the trailer out as it had sunk so much! Plus there was quite a bit of weight in it which didn't help! Like you said, as soon as the top layer of grass went, it just got more slippery.
I probably picked the wettest of days as well, having just had the hurricane pass through and drop heaps of water!
 
Got some new wheels and tyres... 20x10 with a negative 44 offset, running some 295 50 General Grabber road biased tyres. Also... as I plan to use the truck to travel about across the US, I'm swaying towards the idea of lifting the truck for some added clearance and bigger wheels. So I picked up a few bits and pieces at a bargain of a price on craigslist that were made to fit a 2001 Toyota Tacoma, since it has the exact same IF suspension.

I got 4 2+" shocks. 2 Front spring spacers 2", and also a diff drop kit, all for $60! These all TRD items, so should be pretty good quality. However, now I just need some longer rear springs, and I'm not sure where to go as the 4runner is a little lighter vehicle so standard ones are bound to be too soft. I heard 80 series front springs give a 3 inch lift, would a pair of used ones be closer to 2"?
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I've noticed with the increased track, that the suspension seems a little more compliant which is great, and a lot more stable during corners. I also had some vibration with my previous wheels and that's been 99% eliminated now.
 
It's very pretty mate. Makes me feel guilty about neglecting my battered old thing, which is really beginning to feel its age now
 
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Looking smart Beau :thumbup:

2" Spring spacers at the front will lift your truck more than 2 inches , i can't remember how it multiplied now but the angle of the spring somehow increases the lift . On the rear a 2" spacer gives a 2" lift so i would put the fronts in before deciding what to buy for the rear .

Stephen did something with 80 springs on Fiery though i can't remember what , it shouldn't be too hard to find though .
 
Looking smart Beau :thumbup:

2" Spring spacers at the front will lift your truck more than 2 inches , i can't remember how it multiplied now but the angle of the spring somehow increases the lift . On the rear a 2" spacer gives a 2" lift so i would put the fronts in before deciding what to buy for the rear .

Stephen did something with 80 springs on Fiery though i can't remember what , it shouldn't be too hard to find though .

hmm strange phenomenon. I suppose an actual 2" lift spring isn't 2" then? Kinda sucks, because I didn't really want to lift her more than 2" for 2 main reasons. More than that, and it's "recommended" to use a diff drop kit to straighten out the CV's a bit. Thinking about it, I suppose that's why the person I bought this from had the diff drop kit as well. Secondly, height into my garage and parking lots may be an issue.

I remember seeing the pics of Fiery but believe it was over 3" lift he got out from them. Think I might just need to hunt down some 4runner 2"+ spings, plus heavier duty for the extra weight of the colorado vs the 4runner.
 
I can't remember now a coil spacer lift was the first thing i did , i think a 1 inch spacer gives a 2 inch lift , i remember warning somebody who wanted thicker spacers that its a sliding scale and a 2 inch spacer might lift things 5 inches . Memory is vague . A +2" spring and shock set gave me the exactly that , don't ask me why ? its been explained on here somewhere a long time ago maybe the spacer shifts the spring forward slightly or something ???

How about a body lift ?
 
It's because the spacer (i.e the spring/strut) is roughly in the middle of the lower suspension arm, which pivots at the inner end, so the outer end (to which the wheel is attached via the ball joint) is pushed down approximately double the distance that the centre is pushed down

As Shayne says, for a 2" lift at the wheel you need an approximately 1" spacer on the coil spring (I have this). It's not precise because the attachement point of the strut is not exactly in the centre of the ssupension arm
 
Shayne, so was the stated 2" spring actually 2" more in height than OEM, If the science behind it (which makes sense) then an actual spring shouldn't be 2"+ but more so about 1".

Looks like I'm gonna have to find an alternative method. Is there any actual advantage running longer springs vs the spring spacer and vice versa? Like ride? I'm thinking more springs means a more compliant ride?

And shayne, don't really fancy a body lift. I like how the truck hides the chassis and underside nicely, plus it doesn't really give much clearance other than to the bumpers.
 
I was never much interested in the measurements i bought it so it was fitted and lets see how it looks but yeah if they advertise +2" then i'd say that's what you get because +3" would sell for a few bob more .

It may also interest you that the difference between my Pedders suspension V the Monroe +2" i put on the mrs truck is chalk and cheese , mine really is racetrack firm and no complaints from me but i'm sure some would be disappointed . The Monroe stuff by my hillbilly comparison is luxury car material ie very comfortable send me to sleep , bit of body roll but i suppose there should be . Mine might roll an inch if i did a handbrake turn .

Thing is with pedders i got what i asked for as in i was planning for a winch and bumper and i expected to be towing very heavy trailers and the only sort of glitch was pedders don't sell specifically for the 90 series because its an Oz company their kit is for the 95 series . They felt lwb v swb should make no difference but i insist it does hence i ended up putting coil spacers on the rear and probably ended up with firmer suspension than they would expect .

In my admittedly very limited experience there's a lot of luck involved in moving away from Toyota's own suspension unless your willing to spend big money .

A body lift would be my choice if i owned your road biased truck , it keeps everything as it should be , removes all the guesswork and cost about 60 quid from milners i think . If you've got any clearance issues it must be at the front wheel arch seam and if you lift the body it will take that seam up past the full width of the tyre if you get what i mean ?

Your talking 2 inches and if your keeping the side steps it doesn't expose much at all , it's not immediately obvious but the step is a 4" deep skirt and when its on you will have to get on your hands and knees to see what lifting the body 2 inches has exposed .
 
The main downside of a body lift, IME, is when you've previously fitted a front winch bumper to the chassis.

Then, when the body moves up, the bumper stays down and you have a 2" gap.

Beau doesn't have that complication as he's kept the original bumper trims.
 
It's more so a personal choice Shayne, that I'm just not a fan of body lifts. If I was rock crawling then it may come in handy but this truck will never see that type of terrain. However, some outback roads here with deep ruts ect would be nice to have 2"+ of clearance suspension wise. Plus from an aesthetic stand point I think it looks a lot better. I have looked under, and if I was to give it a body lift, my aux tank would be exposed slightly at a side angle, as well the chassis rails. I do like the clean look these trucks have as standard. When you compare them to other trucks, like wranglers for example, stock, you can see the chassis sides sit lower than the body.

If I lift it, I'd ideally like the suspension to stay relatively OEM. I wouldn't mind having a bit stiffer springs on the back end for towing and carrying loads, but it can be fine line between comfort when unladen and not bottoming the springs when loaded - hence why I was also looking into airbag helpers.
 
Just trying to save you a few quid is all . Looking at what you have bought already you could have a machine shop bring your 2" front spacers down to 1" fit them with the springs you have and your new shocks and there's the front done .
Same shop could fabricate 2" rear spacers very easily and there you go you have all you need .
 
I've read that using the spring spacers make the ride a little harsher due to preloading the spring more, which makes sense. Those using it, what's your thoughts?

Also on the look out for some 80 series front springs to use on the rear. Anyone got any? Longer shocks as well, I've read both 80/100 shocks will work once the correct length.
 
I wouldn't say spacers made the ride harsher for me , instead they scrubbed a few years off springs long past their prime . It was a good while ago but I remember thinking everything felt smoother .
 
I have heard the idea that spacers make the springs 'harsher' before, but I don't understand why people think that. If the spacers added compression to the springs that would mean they wouldn't act as spacers!

At the rear the spacers aren't active at all. They just extend the top spring mounts (in effect) and do not add any compression to the spring

At the front, the spacer is also just an extension of the top spring mount. It has the effect of 'pushing down' the lower suspension arm, yes, but it doesn't add compression to the spring (unless you added enormous spacers that forced the bottom arm to the limits of its droop). Because there is limited droop to the front suspension, installing a spacer does rob a little of the available travel from the suspension but not enough to make the slightest bit of difference to the ride quality. It's only an issue if you are seekeing maximum articulation off road.
 
Well I'm still riding on stock OEM springs that have been with the truck since birth and the ride is still pretty good. I've changed the shocks a few years ago to monroe which also made the truck ride good.

In my head, the difference between the back and front is that the front is already under quite a bit of weight compared to the back, hence I'm fairly certain even though you add a spacer to the strut, the spring would be compressed ever so slightly more than before, am I wrong?

On the 4runner forum, this is what the majority of people report. I have the stuff already so I may just give it a try and see for myself.
 
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