Big end shell replacement

Bat21

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Feb 24, 2010
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After reading tales of woe and seeing photos of big ends that have been replaced, I decided it was a a wise move to sort my big ends out sooner rather than later.

I started Saturday morning, as has been said by many the hardest part of the job is persuading the sump pan to part company from the engine block. I had noted a tip originally shared by Julian which was, get an old knife and hammer it into the edge of the small gap between the pan and the block.

Once this was achieved, it was a case of hammering it along the mating surface to break the bond between the two surfaces. The sump pan is double skinned so don't worry about being rough with it.... I ended up bending the front of mine while removing it but it soon bent back to shape once off.

Once the pan was off it was time to set about replacing the big end bearings (BEBS).

I used a 1 1/4 (32mm) socket to rotate the crank using the front pulley bolt.

Cylinders 1 & 6 were first with nothing untoward to report.

Next to come to BDC were cylinders 3 & 4, again no problems with the original shells.

Then came cylinders 2 & 5, No2 was looking fine but..... No5 was a little worse for ware, there was a huge crater in the top (rod shell) bearing that was well on its way to causing a major engine failure.

L to R shells 1 to 5 top shells at the top of photo

i-hS2VMMf.jpg


Close up of shell 5 upper :o

i-NWGgz4m.jpg


One tip gleaned from an other 80 owner, after tightening the new stretch bolts to 37NM, place a 'dot' of tipp-ex on each bolt nearest the center of the cap. This will assist in the next process of tightening to a further 90 degrees, the finished job should result in all 'dots' facing the front or rear of the motor.

i-XW5Fz4n.jpg


All the shells that came out were No4's and were replaced with ACL bearings.

The new shells were coated with Graphogen before assembly, I have seen engines assembled with this stuff and ran for 10 minutes BEFORE the engine oil was added.... needless to say I didn't try this on my truck :)
 
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Andy Harvey

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Mar 6, 2010
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Just to add to this one, the most usefull tool I found when doing the big end bearings on my 80 were a couple of those speedbraces - you know the ones that are cranked like on of those old hand drills. Made getting the sump bolts out and the BEB bolts undone (once they were loosened) so much more pleasurable than tring to do it with a ratchet. Got a 3/8 one for the sump plugs especially but since then it has made things a lot easier for a lot of other jobs.
 

Mal Eade

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Mar 11, 2010
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There is somthing funny going on out out there.

Someone has been to the suppliers and bought up all the stock of shells for the 80's.
My local supplier has been told there will be no more available for at least 2 months.

I wonder who is trying to corner the market on BEB replacement sets.

All I can find out is it was a person from Worcestershire

Ringing round trying to find some now ready for the Asterix trip.


Mal
 

Bat21

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SilverLady said:
There is somthing funny going on out out there.

Someone has been to the suppliers and bought up all the stock of shells for the 80's.
My local supplier has been told there will be no more available for at least 2 months.

I wonder who is trying to corner the market on BEB replacement sets.

All I can find out is it was a person from Worcestershire

Ringing round trying to find some now ready for the Asterix trip.


Mal
Even my mate who I have never had a problem getting bearings from can not get any.

It seems Julian is buying more than they can produce at the moment.

Why don't you get your mechanic to fit genuine Toyota ones?
 

Mal Eade

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Hi

Just found out Genuine Toyota one are a lot cheaper as well.

Was told £30.00 for the full set.

so its Mr Toyota for me.


Malcolm
 

geo-smc

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Mar 13, 2010
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Just fitted a set of ACL bearings yesterday,the old ones where not too bad,no pitting or bits missing.Thanks to Julian for helping me get them.
bebs002.jpg

bebs001.jpg
 

Mal Eade

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Mar 11, 2010
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Don't know
But 30 squid for genuine Mr Toyota ones are good enough for me.

If you had a failure of a shell after fitting then Toyota would be responsible for the repairs as they guarantee supplied genuine parts.

So that will do me.


Mal
 

Rob

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Mar 1, 2010
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SilverLady said:
If you had a failure of a shell after fitting then Toyota would be responsible for the repairs as they guarantee supplied genuine parts.
If you use that argument they why change them in the first place? :mrgreen:

Your truck already has original Toyota bearings on it and i dont think they will be willing to garrante repalacement parts if they don't guarantee the originals.
 

Mal Eade

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I am in england
Mar 11, 2010
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Andrew Prince said:
SilverLady said:
If you had a failure of a shell after fitting then Toyota would be responsible for the repairs as they guarantee supplied genuine parts.
No offence, Mal, but do you think Toyota would guarantee your workmanship? :mrgreen:
No I would not expect them to either.

As I said they Guarantee the parts not the workmanship so if it is a part failure then its guaranteed.

Thats why they are being fitted by an approved garage.

Simple peeps
 

Jon Wildsmith

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Feb 24, 2010
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Here you go, I will do my bit to give people who haven't done their BEB's nightmares:

badbearing.jpg


A few others were starting to show spots that would turn into pitting. There were no external indications anything was up and no change in noises or oil pressure after changing them. I'd been putting it off for ages, I don't think that was going to last much longer :shock:
 

Rob

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Mar 1, 2010
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SilverLady said:
Andrew Prince said:
SilverLady said:
If you had a failure of a shell after fitting then Toyota would be responsible for the repairs as they guarantee supplied genuine parts.
No offence, Mal, but do you think Toyota would guarantee your workmanship? :mrgreen:
No I would not expect them to either.

As I said they Guarantee the parts not the workmanship so if it is a part failure then its guaranteed.

Thats why they are being fitted by an approved garage.

Simple peeps
Are the OEM ones still faulty? if so can you fit the 24 valve bearings to a 12 valve? If they are faulty then you would need to change them again after say 100k miles.
 

Crispin

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Erk!
How is that caused? It looks corroded or like bits have been ripped out of it. Metal fatigue? I would have thought the bearing would wear at the bottom of the shell, not erode like that?
 

Bat21

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Crispin said:
Erk!
How is that caused? It looks corroded or like bits have been ripped out of it. Metal fatigue? I would have thought the bearing would wear at the bottom of the shell, not erode like that?
Corrosion :lol: they spend all of their life in oil.

It is the top shell that takes the force of the 'Big Bang' so it is almost always that half that suffers.

What you see is the result of the lead/bronze/indium flashing (bearing material) de laminating from the steel shell.
 
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