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Big end shell replacement

Once you can get a pry bar tip, on that corner Chris is talking about, past the bend in the sump sheet metal then it all just comes off really easy. Don't hold back with the hammer and you favorite prying screwdriver to make room for the pry bar. Helps to have a hide hammer when bending it back into shape.
 
Exactly. and once you have a small slit, get a sharp thin blade in there and cut the gasket, cut, pry, cut pry until suddenly you will be winning and off it comes.
 
For anybody else tackling this, I still think it is worth splashing out the £16 on the tool I pointed to in post #159.
Tap Tap off. No damage, knives, crow bars, sledge hammers or tears.:tools-hammerdrill:
 
Awe, that takes all the sense of achievement out of it.
 
Thanks for the encouragement, it does help to motivate even if it's just so you don't look like a useless plum on this forum.

It's off and now I can see where I was going wrong. The sump is double skinned (as reported) but what I was doing with my screwdrivers/knife was separating the skins as I thought what turned out to be the upper skin was the bottom mating surface of the block.

Well it isn't ;-) but when I got a seal puller on the bottom skin it pulled the pan off quite easily.

I must have spent six hours on this when it could have been
twenty minutes to remove the bolts and pull it. Such is life eh?

I will post a photo for the edification of the next have-a-go hero.

Rgds
Paul


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Take comfort in the fact that you are not the first person to have done that. Nor the second. Nor third, nor......
 
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Question: should I be replacing the main bearings as well as the con rod bearings?


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Have you the engine out of the cruiser?
Would be thinking you would need to split the block to get at the main crankshaft bearings.
 
Yeah, thought that would be an engine out job.
Anyhow Paul, I wouldn't worry to much about the mains. Seems to be the BEBs that are the usual issue.

Dave.
 
I will resist the temptation to make a big end joke so here are some photos instead.

The bearings from the rear three cylinders; they look and feel fine. Current mileage is 177,000 miles but I don't know how long these have been in the engine:
1085250731.JPG


Here are the front three cylinders which had some pitting:
1170723374.JPG


A close up of the top pair from cylinder number 3:
1268967644.JPG


Can anyone identify the brand of bearing from the stamp?
2074656247.JPG


So that is one important job done and as previously stated in this forum, if you don't make a complete hash of getting the sump off :whistle: it only takes about an hour to change the bearings themselves.

Rgds, Paul.
 
They are genuine I think. Toyota make 4 sizes and in the factory they are so anal that they tailor each shell to the crank. I say they should have ground the crank more accurately. Ha ha. The sizes though are something like 0.00000001 0.00000002 you get the idea.

That was a job well worth doing.
 
It makes me wonder what state some of our main bearings are in if the bearing surface is being washed out like that rather than slowly being worn away.
 
It makes me wonder what state some of our main bearings are in if the bearing surface is being washed out like that rather than slowly being worn away.

IMO the mains get far less hammer than the big-ends, imagine each combustion impact is shared between two (and more) shells, whereas the BE bottom shell takes the full force. The mains wear id far more rotational than impact so I doubt there would be cratering as we've seen so many times on the BE.
 
I was looking at an exploded diagram and it looked like you could undo the cap and drop it out with the crank but I guess the head bolts would be going into it from the top (which weren't on the diagram) - a case of engaging the keyboard before the brain.

I fitted the bearings without any graphite paste and as I had changed the oil filter I was keen to crank it over before firing it up to let some oil get around the engine. The stop solenoid isn't that easy to identify unless you know where it is. Here is a poor picture but its a small black rubber thing with a (green) wire going into it. The rubber thing is actually a boot over the solenoid so slide that off and disconnect the green wire. Once the green wire is off it should turn over without firing up as the stop solenoid isn't letting any fuel get into the injector pump and it obviously won't click when you turn the ignition on. I did 4x10 seconds of cranking and the oil light didn't go out but I thought that was enough for the starter motor and batteries. Actually 1x10 seconds was because I dropped the nut that holds the wire on the solenoid and the cranking helped it fall onto the floor :thumbup:

572391992.JPG


You can just about make out the green wire going (downwards) into the boot that covers the stop solenoid in the centre of the photo. Its good to know where this is because they can be common failure points. If they don't click when you turn on the ignition you've either got a broken wire (run one directly from the battery as a temp fix) or it is knackered.
 
Here's a picture of mine, I was hoping for worse since it's been feeling a bit "rough" since a day of basically rock crawling through wales at 600rpm with very little oil pressure
Pressure seems to be up again but i'll have to wait until its good and hot before I know for sure.
150,000 miles
patchy / non existent service history
Looks like it's the first time they've been done, genuine Toyota sealant on the sump and no marks from it being removed before.
Replaced with std size ACL's and bolts 031.jpg032.jpg037.jpg036.jpgsupplied by Julian at Overland Cruisers
They were all worn but nothing special apart from the pitting / foreign bodies embedded in the lower shell of number 2
 
hi i have not had my land cruiser for long .but was told that I should change BEB .it is a 1992 hj81 27000 m it was inpoted 13 years of and had the same owner who has not dune the BEB . so I got some BEB from milner off road and the stretch bolts off them. and it is in the garage to be done today. and now I read this so do I stop them fitting them?

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