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Big end shell replacement

The hardest part will be getting the sump unstuck so £16 on the tool which Knucklehead has linked will save a lot of time and hassle.

I would take it slow and allow a day for a crappy DIY mechanic like myself or 3-4 hours for any backstreet garage. It's really quite a simply job of nuts and bolts. The torque settings are printed on the side of the engine.


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and Owen, to answer your question "I need to get my BEB's done don't I?"
Yes, dont give it a second thought. I had put if off for a couple of years as convinced myself engine sounding great and really didn't like the thought of it.

Got a big surprise when pulled mine
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/35020-Big-end-shell-replacement/page6
Similar to other 12v engine pictures posted. The craters were a lot deeper than my picture shows.

So either by garage or DIY, I'd put that top of TODO list.
This gives a rough idea what is involved:
https://www.cantanko.com/landcruiser-80/maintenance/big-end-bearing-change/

Dave.

 
When I pulled mine (post No. 135 above) there was hardly a mark on them after some 300k kms, but a job worth doing for sure.


Don't ask, just do, the alternative can be disaster big time. JMHO (and about 14,000 others!):whistle:
 
Going to do this next to the lc, so is it only Toyota I can get the stretch bolts from?
 
Yes. Tighten the bolts then put a mark on each one. Then do the second tightening. That way you don't get muddled up.
 
Finally got round to doing my BEB replacement this weekend with help from Rob - massive thank you again Rob.

I know how much you all like photos so here goes...

All worn, particularly the tops and all have a small pit but not nearly as bad as some others on here:

20140805_170113_zps03e4dbf9.jpg

The worst one was the top on #3;
20140805_170129_zps812e3fe2.jpg

All replaced with ACLs so that is a weight off the mind. Next job is to find the leak in the power steering pump.

Rich
 
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Hmmm, if I click edit post, the pictures appear again. What am I doing wrong? Do the pics need to be hosted somewhere?
 
Are you leaking power steering pump oil or engine oil from the ps pump? If engine oil then it's the face fitting "o" ring. Just remove the pump, degrease and refit with a smear of silicone sealer. No need for a new "o" ring unless you want to, but still use the silicone.
 
An egg cupful of brake fluid in the steering reservoir can often do wonders for power steering racks/boxes and pumps. Take a week or two to become effective but might be worth trying. I have done this for years and unless there is damage to the seal then it will more often than not work.

regards

Dave
 
Thanks joinerman, images now fixed.

Frank - I'm not sure where it is leaking from yet, I need to clean it all up and see if I can work it out. Great tips for when I do!

Dave - thank you, I'll give that a go before trying anything more drastic.
 
after reading the first 5 pages then skipping to the last 2, has anyone had to do the beb on a 24valve?
there was mention of only the 12 valve ones needing the change
 
after reading the first 5 pages then skipping to the last 2, has anyone had to do the beb on a 24valve?
there was mention of only the 12 valve ones needing the change

Yes, I did mine. Nothing like as bad as some 12v examples but No.6 was the worst. Changed them in 2005 but there's pics on here somewhere.
 
I'm doing mine now and I can't get the sump off even though I have a 2-3mm gap down each side of the sump. The manual talks about removing the exhaust and starter motor but no one has mentioned that so I'm not convinced it is necessary. It also says don't hammer a knife/screwdriver between the mating services - doh.

Do I need to remove any other parts before it will come off??

Thks


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Did you remove the webbing that runs between the lower block and bellhousing? They are large support brackets above the rear of the sump.
Apart from supporting the frame with stands so axle drops fully, can't think of anything else holding it on if the seal is cut all round.
 
I've been happily distracted by a houseful of visitors but I was thinking I need to take the webbing off to break the seal at the gearbox end.

Cheers Knucklehead


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No worries. You will need those brackets off to have enough room to remove/refit the sump as a bit of a tight fit down there. I removed nothing else. Good luck.
 
I think that you can do it with only one removed. I have done three of these now and getting the sump off is the longest bit. But be brave, get in there, it will bend but straightens out really easily. Start front corner, diagonally opposite starter motor
 
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