Brakes

G

Guest

Guest
JB, disturbing to see that your Yaris specialist has still not had
any LC training. The more you go to him the more he will think he is
an LC expert ;o)
Anyway, on the pedal pressure, check that the pedal freeplay is to
spec, too much play and it can seem 'spongy', and its an easy fix for
you to do with a couple of spanners. Also, replacing the flexible
pipes can have quite an effect - try the front brakes first. You
don't have to go to the braided ones unless you join Renate on her
desert trips. The OEM pipes are OK and Milner sell OEM at a good
price, from memory they don't come with new copper sealing washers
but you can anneal the old ones with a blowlamp and re-use them
safely. I also bought a master cylinder from them and it was NOT OEM,
that would have been an alloy casting, but the Milner part was a
heavier cast iron part. But it works well. You can consider
re-sealing your existing master cylinder but it is hardly ever worth
it as just a short part of the bore (in both places for the dual line
system) can be scored, and no matter how often you replace the seals,
they will soon wear to the contour of the bore wear. If you do buy a
new master make sure you bench bleed it first, it makes the job a lot
easier. Also make sure you use a proper 'union' ring spanner, as Toy
put the unions into the cylinder fittings with some pretty strong
sealant and its easy to burr the flats on the very thin walled unions
without the right spanner to remove them. Best of luck.
Cheers
Jon
Tring, Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Jon
Thanks for that advice.
If I do have issues with the master I will leave it to someone else as I
know this is over my head at the moment.
Its going into Toy this morning to get the rear wheel bearings put in the
rear axel this time.
So next on the cruiser agenda is the steering box, but I think ill leave
that to others , just at the moment
So I am interested to see if they will still feel they are different than
the front as they previously thought.
When I get it back ill check pedal freeplay.
I have to say I feel really good going to Toyota with a little information I
have learned from the list.
But thats ok once they dont go too tech on me then I would be lost.
Still knowledge is power and it feels good.
I was amazed how easy it was to bleed the brakes.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
JB, its good to see that you are at last getting to grips with some
technical tasks on the 80, despite your disability restricting your
movement, but well done. Sorry that being on the digest has made my
small contribution disjointed against the other posts.
You seem to have got the bleeding sussed, but when all the dust has
settled its worth doing the load valve as a lot of muck settles in
there, from memory the nipple points forward on mine, but its
definitely there. Just one more point. Did the nipples all have dust
caps on them? I find buying spares almost impossible these days,
they seem to come with a caliper attached. But you can make some
using some new tube the same size as the bleeder tube, cut into maybe
10-12mm lengths. Just squirt a small amount of silicone sealant in
one end and push them on 24 hours later. Best to keep the nipples
sealed from dust, muck, and water.
Cheers
Jon
Tring,Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
G

Guest

Guest
Jon,
Point of interest. You can cut lengths of tube slightly longer
than the nipple, push them on and fill the end with grease, it never
comes out and does a good job. This also works with bolt ends that
protrude enough to rust up.
Regards, Clive.
 
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G

Guest

Guest
Hey Jon
Thanks again for that and yes one nipple was missing a dust cap so ill make
one up tomorrow.
How do I know if this load valve is working ok and how can it be tested and
adjusted if need be.
Sorry but you do know I would ask just the odd question or two.
Jon dont worry about late posts, your info is always welcome and valid.
Anyway sure it takes me ages sometimes to go over and over the info to make
sure I know what you experts are talking about.
But I have to say when I do try something its amazing when it works out
right and then I kind of feel well why the hell didn't I try this ages ago.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
JB wrote...
How do I know if this load valve is working ok and how can it be tested and
adjusted if need be.
SNIP
JB, not having a lifted 80 I have never had to bother with it. I know
the rear brakes work cos the chains sprag well in snow when I have to
stop, and I stay straight. So I am confident that they are well
balanced in better conditions, I have no problems with stopping and
neither have I noticed the rear brakes lock-up in dry conditions. I
suggest that you look on the lcool forum as its been a well discussed
topic over the 5 years I have been on it. I think the I h8mud boys
have plenty to say about it too. Sorry I cannot be of more help.
Pleased the steering damper is showing its worth. I can't see that it
will make driving more tiring for you, it will be the opposite
surely. After all JB, it is a power steering system. When I replaced
my damper it was bliss !
Cheers
Jon
Tring, Herts
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
The load proportioning valve is intended to adjust the bias of the braking
between the front and the rear wheels.
You should actually adjust it when you upgrade the suspension because the
angle of the axle in relation to the valve alters simulating a lighter load.
I can't remember the exact details, but if you find your front or rear brakes
have a tendancy to lock up under heavy braking you need to adjust the load
sensing valve to the point where this doesn't happen - you do this by
adjusting where the rod from it travels down to the axle and you will see an
adjuster just on the axle.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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