Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Calling the axe man (Chris)

warrenpfo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
2,895
I am in the market for a light, yet robust axe/chopper for overlanding. Something that will fit under the passenger row of seats not used for felling large trees everyday but rather to collect fire wood split the odd log and bang in the odd nail on the back end etc.

I was thinking an axe with a polycarbonate handle would be best for weight saving and strength and was looking at a Fiskar. Are they any good or is there better. I dont want to spend a fortune but want to get something that is going to last.
 
Justin

I always associate these types of choppers with Indians on horseback whittling a canoe out of a log. Are they tough and able to take a beating as it looks very delicately made ie would not be keen to move hot coals with it or bang nail in.

I may be very wrong.
 
Its the one Ray Mears uses (apparently) - and they're really tough / sharp....

That said its an Axe not a fire poker or hammer...

IMO - If I was looking at which axe to take on an overland trip, its the only one I'd bother packing.
 
They are a very nice axe Warren, nicely balanced and a useful length for a small axe and hold an edge well. I have one of those and a Gransfors felling axe, lovely things :)
 
I have a couple of GB axes, a splitter and a small forest axe and they are very good indeed as axes but, like Justin says, they aren't pokers or hammers.

Hitting steel like a nail with the poll of an axe will lead to damage over time, especially if you've had it in the fire. Hammer faces are tempered to be hard, as are the edges of axes but the everything back from there, through the eye is much softer.

In the same way a knife is the least effective and most expensive crowbar you'll ever use an axe is the least effective and most fragile shovel you will ever use.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
GB all the way. The small forest axe is pure wood chopping porn. I can't say more.
C
 
Just to be clear I dont want to abuse the axe to the point of distruction and know that the best tool for a job is the right tool but want to know that if it comes to it the axe will take some abuse and more importantly also be able to cut some timber.

I guess we have come to the conclusion it will do its job of cutting wood its just how much abuse it will take compred to a Fiskar or the like.

One other thing to ask is when i return to SA at the end of next year would i be able to get a replacment handle for it if need be and is it a DIY replacment job?

Chris would you recommend the small forest axe at 1kg and 50cm or the Scandivavian forest axe at 1.2kd and 64cm long? http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html
 
Sorry in a cabin in Scotland. Bit of a ltd connection plus bottle of port small forest for me. Get a sharpening puck too best place is the cheapest. But eBay will give you good ideas

Chris
 
After more than 20 years in the forestry & tree surgery trades I no longer buy woode handled tools - a fibreglass handled felling axe i bought 20 years ago is still around. Go for the fiskars , they are not expensive for the quality & the handle is guaranteed for 10 years.I have a fiskars billhook & loppers & no probs so far - the billhook hasn't needed shapening from new , now had it three years.
 
A billhook would probably make a very good alternative, for the uses you've described such as getting a bit of firewood collected and split and it would be a better bet for clearing lightish brush.

The Fiskars ones can be had at B&Q for not much money.
 
My wife gave me a Gransfors small forest axe this morning. I love it! It was too cold to go outside, so now we need a new coat stand and 2 new dining chairs... :D
 
GB as Chris says are excellent. True axe porn at it's best.
They do a small splitting maul too, which is great for travelling. My large maul has had loads of use, just awesome.
Which ever you go for you will love. :thumbup:
 
Back
Top