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Can you get a hose from one end to the other through the chassis rail?

warrenpfo

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Jul 21, 2010
Messages
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Sill question but let me explain.

I want to spray some dinitrol penetrating fluid in my chassis rails for good measure and my thinking at the moment is to run a tube from one end to the other with the spray nozzle on the end and pull the trigger as I slowly pull the hose out again. That way i will know the full length of the chassis member has had a good spray inside.

The hose is about 1/4" in thickness and i will feed a cable puller through first to then pull the hose back with as it wont be ridged enough on its own to feed through.
 
I've thinking on how to do this and the best i can come up with is to attach a length of 8mm copper tube to one of them hand pump weed spayer's (i doubt aerosols would be strong enough) . The pipe will bend easily if it meets resistance and i could solder a ball bearing on the end so the spray ejects to cover top and sides leaving the excess to cover the bottom . I'm assuming the chassis is hollow .
 
I have the tins of fluid that take the compressor spray gun so no problem there.
 
There are enough holes along the chassis to just do sections at a time. Just making if hard trying to feed the pipe through
There are all sorts of cross tubes and things in there
 
There are all sorts of cross tubes and things in there

That would be the difficulty (if any) Warren, blank ends where cross members are. I would imagine nobody knows with certainty either, unless they'd literally cut a chassis up into pieces....

Karl? :think:

I'm with Shayne on the spray problem, with just a pipe you'd only get a dribble out of the end onto the bottom plate of the box, not a coat spread all around the four sides.

What I've done with my chassis since I had the truck 8 years ago, is squibbed oil into the vent holes you mentioned in your thread.

IMO, oil has the advantage of creeping up the sides of metal, and the rust (if any, and I'm sure there is on a 19 year old) on the inside of the box would encourage the creep (capillary action) up the walls and even onto the soffit of the box.

Maybe I'm wrong, but there's plenty of venting for the inside to dry out, and we have hot dry summers (eventually, it's been wet for a week here :icon-cry:) so I think it's a good way to keep the rust at bay. I know oil won't improve it but it may slow it down.
 
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Well its done. What a shitty job, probably the worst job i have ever done. It might have helped to have jacked the truck up as she is not lifted so the space under is limited and with oil dripping down on you from everywhere its not fun.

I would recommend driving onto a tarp to keep the ground from getting dirty. 2L where used in all the chassis rails and cross members. I went through 2 shorts a jumper a towel and a pair of shorts all in the bin now as the ML stuff from dinitrol stinks and gets everywhere.

I did a good job and made sure it went everywhere but dont think i will be doing the Dinitrol of the rest of the undercarriage as it is a job to out source i think.
 
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Tbh Clive I have obviously cut a few chaises up and have NEVER come across a rotten one and I have bought some rough old girls. I have seen one with rot on the rear bumper cross member part but that's been it.

Nothing wrong with helping it last 200 years though Warren :thumbup:
 
Tbh Clive I have obviously cut a few chaises up and have NEVER come across a rotten one and I have bought some rough old girls. I have seen one with rot on the rear bumper cross member part but that's been it.

Nothing wrong with helping it last 200 years though Warren :thumbup:

That's very good to hear Karl, sometimes they look worse than they really are.

Mine looks good compared with some I've seen, most of it still has paint on it, not bad after 19 years. :icon-biggrin:

The oil I put can't do any harm though, I've started, so I'll finish. It certainly doesn't get any oil from anywhere else (like a disco might :whistle:).
 
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