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Can't fit wheel spaces - Gutted !

Did you measure the length of your studs???
I was looking at the same spacers for my 90.
 
Did you measure the length of your studs???
I was looking at the same spacers for my 90.

Sorry mate i didn't but i think i'm correct in saying that all rear studs are long enough for wheel spacers and only the front studs seem to differ . I hope a few others will verify this . If i'm right all you need to do is measure the rear studs and compare them to the front , if they are the same all round spacers should fit .


Incidentally i would never have paid £130 for spacers in the first place if i had known i could get 5 offset wheels for £250
 
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Wheels look good Shayne, very similar to mine. :icon-biggrin:

I'm not a huge fan of spacers, wheels with the correct off set seems a better solution IMHO. :think:
 
Absolutely Ben i never liked the idea of hidden nuts holding my wheels on but couldn't find anyone doing offset steels . who would of thought of searching for www.extremeoffsetwheels.com :doh:
 
I never asked what sizes , i wanted 30mm and 35 was what they offered , i'm made up with them though they stick out from the guards just enough to make them prominent but not quite so far as to ruin your paint or encourage unwanted attention from the boys in blue .
 
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Oddly enough I had to order a rear stud from my local dealer last week. They list (as do toyodiy) a different part number for front and rear. Not sure why maybe they are different lengths. FYI I asked them for a price to do the timing belt whilst I was in there, 163 quid, not bad i thougt considering my usual garage had quoted £150.
 
Timing belt? 15 min job. Bring one with you and I'll do it at Lincomb whilst you get the kettle on. I'll be done before you reach for the milk. It is about the easiest job on a 1KZ-TE engine. Honestly you can do this yourself. Save your money.
 
Timing belt? 15 min job. Bring one with you and I'll do it at Lincomb whilst you get the kettle on. I'll be done before you reach for the milk. It is about the easiest job on a 1KZ-TE engine. Honestly you can do this yourself. Save your money.

Very true, align pulley at 12 oclock, tensioner out, old belt off, new belt in, clamp tensioner and lock in place with pin, put tensioner in, pull out pin, done!
 
Timing belt? 15 min job. Bring one with you and I'll do it at Lincomb whilst you get the kettle on. I'll be done before you reach for the milk. It is about the easiest job on a 1KZ-TE engine. Honestly you can do this yourself. Save your money.


+1 i was shocked how quick i did my belt.
 
Intercooler on a manual 90 ?

Just taken my bumper off to get a proper look at the rad and hoping to lift it a little and for the first time realized i actually have two rads . Does this mean i do have an intercooler and if so what else should i be aware of ?
 
Do you have air con shayne? I would think it is more likely to be the rad for that than an intercooler

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Shifting the rad is easy. But I think you want to drop it not lift it. The rad comes up with the body lift. Drop it back down with some 40mm straps made from something like 20mm x 1.5 flat.

Yes I think that you'll find it's the aircon Shayne. Isn't the intercooler on the top of the 1KZ-TE?
 
Yep 99% probably that it's the air con rad.

If not massive bonus! ;)
 
You got it Chris the Mrs only pointed out to me 2 days ago i have air con , i never shut the windows when i drive lol . Don't see how i can lift the rads though i would only get a few mm before it hit the bonnet . Not good given the rad is now an inch and a half lower than the chassis cross section so if i rode up on a big rock or something the rad would take the brunt of it . Obviously my plastic bumper would get wrecked first but that offers no protection anyway .
 
I guess the rad is now actually a bit higher and better protected than it was . I'm not worried about airflow so i wouldn't drop it . I made fitting the plastic lower fan guard pretty easy coz i snapped it by accident so i hope it will just clip back in once i've added a little length in the middle while joining it back together with a plastic sleeve made from an old bucket with the help of a heat gun .

Does anyone think it would be a bad idea to extend the chassis crossbar a little with a bit of bar welded to it so the said rock , if i ever meet it , won't puncture my rad before it hits stronger components ?
 
I don't know of anyone who's ever hit the rad or the condenser on a 90 and we've partied pretty hard in them. I'd just drop the rad and clip the plastic shroud back on. Cooling on this engine is very important and you need as much as you can get. It's bad enough having the rad hidden behind the condenser without losing any more flow through it. Add some mud to the condenser and you can get a pretty hot engine. 4 straps and some bolts and it's done back to where it should be.
 
Pointless question sorry , just remembered i haven't refitted the underbody protection yet which will keep the rad well out of harms way :doh:

If i drop the rad i will actually be putting it inside the the front protection plate which would reduce airflow , unless i dropped it then drilled holes in the front of the plate , that would likely improve direct airflow over the standard set up . I think i will leave it well alone for now as my temp gauge has never moved beyond mid way even on a 6 hour drive , in fact its so solid i often check when its cold just to be sure the needle isn't actually stuck .
 
On that temp gauge Shayne ... Toyota temp gauges are generally regarded as shite because of the massive dead spot they have in the middle (which is why it's so rock solid.) Usually once they start moving ... you're extremely close to cooking your engine.
 
grantw I am now gutted :( I was always very proud of the cooling on my manual 90 and now I discover its actually the gauge! Are there any upgrade/accurate replacements?
 
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