Central locking problems

[clivehorridge]

Now chaps, I've been reluctant to post my problem 'cos you're all smarter than me when it comes to electrickery ECUs and magic boxes and wires full of smoke, and you'll probably post up very helpful replies that I won't understand a word of.... but here goes anyway.

I don't think this bit is relevant (but who knows) my truck was bought with an alarm/central locking system fitted, that was 11 years ago and I doubt that the alarm is OEM 'cos my truck is very basic, but of course the central locking bit is the original Toyota fitment.

For the record, the key fob looks like this and it has "Skytek" embossed in the back casing.

A while ago, the fob batteries were showing signs of fading (as they do from time to time) as I had to be within 1/2 m of the truck for it to work. I replaced the batteries, now that's about 10m range, happy again, all was well.

Now to the problem, recently, when I press lock (alarm set and central locking) the alarm sets but it doesn't lock. If I then press unlock and lock again, after about 20 times (unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock God this is tedious) it works.

Any ideas?

Nothing else has changed, the batteries in the fob last me about 2 - 3 years, and I've changed them a few times now over the years with no issues.

I'm more inclined to think it's nothing to do with the alarm, but a problem with the central locking or whatever controls it. (Guessing an ECU or other bit of smoke-box magic).

I also can't lock the truck with the key, don't know why, it just doesn't turn anti-clockwise, but I've never used the key to lock the truck so the barrel may have gone to sleep or the key is worn or something unconnected. I can unlock with key clockwise, but again I feel this is irrelevant.

Interesting that when I come to the locked truck, one press of the unlock on the fob, it unlocks instantly.

It's very frustrating and I'm getting odd looks from passers by when I'm beep-lock, beep-beep-unlock 20 odd times every time I leave the truck somewhere.

All offers considered.... please.... thanks....

 

[frank rabbets]

Is the car getting a signal from the fob? Reading your description it is.

If the car is getting a signal, e.g. with the alarm setting, listen very carefully for any sound at all from the doors, when they won't lock, as if they are trying to lock?

 

[clivehorridge]

Is the car getting a signal from the fob? Reading your description it is.

If the car is getting a signal, e.g. with the alarm setting, listen very carefully for any sound at all from the doors, when they won't lock, as if they are trying to lock?

Yes Frank, clearly the car receives the signal, the alarm sets OK.

I can also hear the actuators at all of the doors, but they simply don't seem to be actuating enough to trip the locks, for the first 20 or so attempts, then they do.

And all doors lock simultaneously, its not like some do and some don't.

I accept that something may not work anymore, but for it to work on the 20th or 23rd time of trying, is a bit confusing.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Yes Frank, clearly the car receives the signal, the alarm sets OK.

I can also hear the actuators at all of the doors, but they simply don't seem to be actuating enough to trip the locks, for the first 20 or so attempts, then they do.

And all doors lock simultaneously, its not like some do and some don't.

I accept that something may not work anymore, but for it to work on the 20th or 23rd time of trying, is a bit confusing.

Sorry to hear your frustrations Clive. The door lock mechanism may need changing / or the plastic piece may be broken like mine had & so doesn't hold to turn when the key.

I reluctantly chose to fix the plastic piece not sure how long it will last but like most don't use the key much anyway for the doors & didn't want different keys for ignition & doors.

Have you taken the door cards off to look around?

 

[clivehorridge]

Well, like you say Dervis, the reluctance for the door lock itself to work is not a problem to me as long as the central locking "trigger" is working as it always has done.

I think the lock problem is a worn key issue, when used regularly in a lock, a worn key usually matches a worn lock, but because it hasn't been used in the door lock for so long, they've become incompatible.

As I said, I'm convinced the problem lies in the electronics somewhere, where the "trigger" signal to lock has become too weak. The unlock trigger is as strong as ever it was.

Alternatively, I'm barking up the wrong tree (which wouldn't surprise me at all).

 

[Shayne]

Mine won't lock unless all the doors and the rear windows are firmly shut so i assume there's a pressure switch in each to tell the ecu its good to lock . Might be something to look at .

 

[clivehorridge]

Mine won't lock unless all the doors and the rear windows are firmly shut so i assume there's a pressure switch in each to tell the ecu its good to lock . Might be something to look at .

A good point Shayne, but I tell you, I stand there like a lemon, pressing lock, unlock over and over, then it locks, without me doing (or disturbing) anything else.

There are the personal light switches of course, and they show fault on the dash if a door isn't closed properly, but I'm not getting that warning.

 

[Shayne]

Between us i think we could convince the mrs to change a light bulb for us mate but a switch is a switch , pull it out give it a clean and put it back together again , it can't do no harm anyway . Bonnet switch too .

 

[StarCruiser]

Just found this thread Clive.
Do you have a Lock Unlock button next to your windows switches on the drivers door arm rest? If so, try operating that. Does IT match the symptoms or does it work ok?

 

[clivehorridge]

Just found this thread Clive.
Do you have a Lock Unlock button next to your windows switches on the drivers door arm rest? If so, try operating that. Does IT match the symptoms or does it work ok?

Thanks for all the interest guys.

Yes I do have the lock, unlock button on the arm rear and it works just fine, every time Rich.

That's why I'm thinking the problem is with an ECU or whatever receives the signal and does the switching as a consequence of pressing the remote button.

It's no big deal really, but tonight locking the truck took 28 attempts, but it did lock.

It's just becoming a bit embarrassing TBH .

 

[StarCruiser]

If the lock unlock button works then the problem lies with the alarm unit or more likely the wiring. Try the locking on the fob at various stages of drivers door open and see if it makes any difference. On mine, the installer connected the wiring through the door flexi into the door panel and to the wires from the lock unlock switch. Yours may be different but I suspect a poor connection (the dreaded Scotchlok perhaps?) somewhere either within the door or under the dash on the drivers side. You should, with some time and a torch, be able to trace any wiring that seems to be extra to the original loom. Check any connections you find that look like door circuits. Gently pull/ease the rubber flexi from the door hinge bodywork. You should then be able to see wires coming out the end. If they look to be all original look under the dash for connections.

If all of this fails it may be a dry joint or failing relay in the alarm itself. Unlikely but possible.

Good luck with it and don't let the smoke out ok.

 

[clivehorridge]

If the lock unlock button works then the problem lies with the alarm unit or more likely the wiring. Try the locking on the fob at various stages of drivers door open and see if it makes any difference. On mine, the installer connected the wiring through the door flexi into the door panel and to the wires from the lock unlock switch. Yours may be different but I suspect a poor connection (the dreaded Scotchlok perhaps?) somewhere either within the door or under the dash on the drivers side. You should, with some time and a torch, be able to trace any wiring that seems to be extra to the original loom. Check any connections you find that look like door circuits. Gently pull/ease the rubber flexi from the door hinge bodywork. You should then be able to see wires coming out the end. If they look to be all original look under the dash for connections.

If all of this fails it may be a dry joint or failing relay in the alarm itself. Unlikely but possible.

Good luck with it and don't let the smoke out ok.

Thanks Rich, weather permitting, I'll have a go as you've suggested, this weekend.

The forecast is 3C with rain and more rain.

 

[Gary820]

28 times! I'd have left the bugger unlocked by 20 lol.

I agree have a look at the wiring for the lock side. Alarm box could have internal relays too, poor contact there also a possibility.

 

[clivehorridge]

28 times! I'd have left the bugger unlocked by 20 lol.

I agree have a look at the wiring for the lock side. Alarm box could have internal relays too, poor contact there also a possibility.

Cheers Gary, it did get close, trust me.

I will trace the wires I find and check them for continuity, I've got a meter now (I just have to learn how to use it )

I really do know nothing about lectrics, apart from it going around in a circle.

I've no idea where an alarm box would be, but by the time I get that far, I'll have to get a real man to look at it.

 

[Gary820]

Behind glove box, under centre console tend to be favorite places. When find the box work out which is the lock and unlock wires, can check it's output.
Can trace the wiring from there to wherever it's been wired to the locking.

Usually different colours which helps to trace them too.

If find the model on the box you'll most likely find a wiring diagram on line too.

 

[clivehorridge]

Behind glove box, under centre console tend to be favorite places. When find the box work out which is the lock and unlock wires, can check it's output.
Can trace the wiring from there to wherever it's been wired to the locking.

Usually different colours which helps to trace them too.

If find the model on the box you'll most likely find a wiring diagram on line too.

Thanks Gary. I know it's not under the centre console, I've had that off a few times and it's empty under there, so I guess it's behind the glove box, or wherever the alarm guy chose to bury it. It's not OEM for sure, but it was fitted before I got the truck.

I'll have a go if it's not rizzling down with rain all weekend.

 

[StarCruiser]

Around the steering column is my guess as it's a right PITA to see and get to.

 

[clivehorridge]

Around the steering column is my guess as it's a right PITA to see and get to.

The joys Rich, oh the joys....

Life is good...

 

[StarCruiser]

It's not so bad if you lay on your back in the drivers footwell limbo style. It sounds and looks most uncomfortable but is surprisingly ok if you get your body straight and your legs straight down from the knees.

 

[clivehorridge]

It's not so bad if you lay on your back in the drivers footwell limbo style. It sounds and looks most uncomfortable but is surprisingly ok if you get your body straight and your legs straight down from the knees.

It's a long time since I "limbo'd in the footwell" Rich, memories, memories, those were the days

BTW, I still have my electrical "leak" problem on the middle interior light activated by the 2 front doors.

I removed each door switch, but it made no difference, the light was still glowing ver dimly. It's odd, because as soon as I switch on the lights or the ignition, the dim light goes out, it's only "leaking" when everything is off.

The door switches are working OK, they test dead when not connected and open contact, and test live closed contact, as they should.

Maybe there's some commonality with my central locking problem, but the 2 faults have materialized at separate times....