Changing the clutch

[IRLGW]

I think its time to stop avoiding the inevitable and change my clutch this weekend

I was going to stick it up on a ramp and remove the gearbox until a mechanic said that it is easier to disconnect the engine mounts and slide it forward on an engine hoist leaving the gearbox in place (working from the top obviously). He also said that its easier to do the izuzu trooper this way as well. Although contrary to how I have ever done it before, it does bear some merit in that one doesn't have a heavy box suspended in mid-air. However, I wonder if putting the engine back onto the gearbox is as easy?

Has anyone else got an opinion on this method? Mine is a 12vManual

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Interesting idea, not sure it will actually end up being easier than dropping the box as apart from needing a way to lower and raise the box it's quite straight forward. Be interested to hear how you get on if you do go the engine sliding route.

 

[frank rabbets]

I would think to follow the advice in the workshop manual.

Frank

 

[BobMurphy]

I used to change clutches on my Landrover that way - but I could remove the panels around the bell housing easily which allowed me to get to all the bolts.

It also meant removing the radiator and fan.

I haven't worked on an '80' so don't know what the clearance is like, but on a '90' the top bolts on the bell housing are a PITA and require the box to be lowered at the back so that long socket extensions can be used to reach them (the bulkhead is far too close to get at them from above, particularly if the EGR assembly is still fitted).

As Frank says . . the manual probably knows best (unless you like 'Exploring the unknown' ).

Bob.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

You may also need to remove the bonnet, plus you need to factor in the items on the engine that would need disconnecting. At the end of all that the room available would be limited. I would stick with the g/box out mode but remember the box and t/box weigh close to 300lbs.

Roger

 

[IRLGW]

it does sound like more hassle but then grunting around under the vehicle with a trolley jack and a heavy box could be just as risky. I'll chat to the lad again and get him to explain in more detail and make a list of what needs to be removed. I think with the hoist it can be a one man job?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Take the transfer box off the gearbox, it's only a few bolts, and the gearbox will be a much more balanced and manageable lump. The box itself isn't super heavy as these things go, the manuals are much lighter than the A442F auto box, I can lift and carry a manual box about ok but not an A442F (A343 auto in the petrols is a similar weight to the manual box and a one man lift/carry again). I'm not suggesting you bench press the box out and back in on your own unless you're one of these worlds strongest men types, but it's not a massive weight to have balanced on top of a jack and be wiggling out / into position either.

Access to the top bell housing bolts is very tight like Bob said, not sure how you'll get on with those without lowering the back of the box anyway.

 

[frank rabbets]

Be very careful whe you pull the box off the back of the engine. It must weigh 50 kg without the transfer attached. Jon may be able lift it but I had a job lifting it up off my bench by just an inch then had to drop it a bit quick. Lifting it back onto the engine without a trolley jack or somethig would be impossible for anyone as you have to wiggle it about and turn the output shaft at the same time to engage the splines. Also if you move the engine in preference to the box I don't see how you can centre the clutch plate on the flywheel accurately.

Frank