Chassis Strut to Axle Broken - pics - how bad?

[MisterCruiser]

How bad is this, I know it's broken haha but how bad is this to repair?

Can any of that remaining steel be welded to or is the entire mounting at the chassis end going to have to be cut out along with part of the horizontal tube around the mount or is that not necessary?

I remember seeing a link to a Romanian site I think it was, on here where some lad was selling landcruiser parts such as the axle mounting turrets etc, that he fabricated to sell as weld on parts; would anyone have the website please? I had saved it to my favourites but pc died and I lost a lot of them.

Here's 2 pics:

 

[bones]

To be honest personally I would say it is a simple enough fix, you could cut off what is there and remake or weld the steel that is there. It still looks like good thick steel and shouldn't be a problem to weld and strengthen.

 

[Towpack]

The metal does still look quite thick at the break so I would say it probably cracked a while back and it's eventually failed at that point rather than just rotting through and crumbling away. Should be weldable with some reinforcing IMO.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Looks like the crossmember is available as a complete part, number 51205-35280. It looks to be about 400 euros according to Toyodiy but you'll have to check.
I'd try Amayama for a price, might take a short while to get here and might attract attract some duty but it will be cheaper. This route is the alternative to fabrication as it does look doable. I guess you have to weigh up the cost advantage of either option. If it was mine I'd be examining the other side carefully.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Out of production apparently. Can ask at local Toyota,

 

[MisterCruiser]

Well this is good to hear, a relatively easy fix for a welder is a welcome summary.
I can do a bit of welding myself but still learning, I wouldn't be too confident in making up a piece for it.

That's a helpful bit of knowledge that the cross member is available separately, I just assumed all non-bolt on parts wouldn't be available from Toyota as separate parts, everyday is a school day I wonder if Millners or Roughtrax sell them, I'll have a look, UK customs now is a nuisance though.

Does anyone remember the fabrication crowd / lad that I think advertised his products / website on this forum, he was basically making parts such as this cross member but it was the rear axle mounts that I specifically remember he had made for sale. I don't think he was in the UK though, I think he was somewhere in Europe. I wonder if he does that cross member?

Cseers for the tips.

 

[Rob Cowell]

Did mine 7 years ago; and as will be abundently clear from the link I am no welder. Or fabricator.

Snap

Changing the oil in the back diff and noticed this. The bracket that holds the top suspension arm on to the round crossmember has sheared. Oddly did 500 miles on Friday at a respectable average speed and the handling was fine. Could have gone this morning I suppose when I was trundling round the...

www.landcruiserclub.net

What I can tell you is the other side went about 18 months later. And then maybe 2 or 3 years after that one of the brackets pulled away from the cross member. My local agri fabricator made me a new cross member from bits of pipe and elbows. It's a bit awkward to make because the cross member is round and the bracket fits at an angle. I made the bracket with an oversized hole for the bolt, fitted the top arm with thick washers on either side. Sat the car back on its wheels and welded the washers to the bracket so the holes should be in the correct place.

As of now one side is now knocking because those holes have worn larger, I think because I used washers rather than drill nice tight fitting 10mm holes in some plate which is what I will do when I get round to fixing it. Again.

 

[Rob Cowell]

And here's the other side!

More rust

Spotted a finger sized hole in a sill over the summer. MOT coming up I thought I should throw a patch at it today. Of course having cleaned it up the hole was bigger than it first looked. This is looking towards the rear. Chopped out the weak stuff. Looks new in there apart from the rotten...

www.landcruiserclub.net

 

[MisterCruiser]

And here's the other side!

http://[URL]https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/more-rust.146622/

[/URL]

I read both your threads here now, that's a class bit of fabrication you DIY'd. Fair play. The sills are going to need doing on this 120 too, I think I'll buy the new aftermarket sills and get them welded in. I done the sills on my 90 series with the help of a friend before using patch metal but think I'll get the complete sills this time.

 

[Tractionman]

When my bodyshop/classic car repairer mate, did my 120 sills, we discussed aftermarket and oem, and went with oem. He told me he has been that route before with various aftermarket, some good, some bad, and as I'm paying for his time (discounted rates) its not worth the time/hassle/cost, fettling stuff to fit. Ok if youre doing it yourself with no labour costs, you can piss about all day.

 

[MisterCruiser]

When my bodyshop/classic car repairer mate, did my 120 sills, we discussed aftermarket and oem, and went with oem. He told me he has been that route before with various aftermarket, some good, some bad, and as I'm paying for his time (discounted rates) its not worth the time/hassle/cost, fettling stuff to fit. Ok if youre doing it yourself with no labour costs, you can piss about all day.

I agree, that's why I'd be interested to see what the fitment is like on these aftermarket, if ok then I'd buy them based on another members experience with them. If shoddy fit I won't buy them.
How much were the sills from toyota? I think each side of a short wheel base needs 3 separate pieces of sill, is that correct? It's not one continuous length, it's in 3 parts?

 

[Tractionman]

All on a 120 which is the lwb.
Not sure of the individual parts costs, as I had other work done too, inner sills, which he made to suit as no curves.
All 4 doors off for good access, mats turned back and sills were in 3 pieces each side, the centre section being a T piece, a short distance up the pillar.
Excellent job, all waxoyled and sealed, no joins showing as original, and perfect paint match.
I have seen aftermarket sills for swb and lwb in one length, but not sure if that would compromise strength without going up the pillar a short distance, as in a T piece, and there are strengthening areas inside.
I don't think it us as simple as cutting a whole straight sill off and welding a new on.
As a body shop/classic car repairer, he doesn't compromise, and did the full works including paint, something most ordinary welding shops or individuals won't touch as a complete job.
Its all depends on what you personally would be happy with and who is doing it.

 

[Rob Cowell]

Any idea what the part number(s) where? I've looked for genuine outer sills before and can only find the whole side panels with the sill at the bottom.

 

[Tractionman]

Sorry, no idea Rob.
This was 2 years ago. After cutting and cleaning up to ensure what parts he needed, I know he ordered from a local Toyota main stealer and they had to get them in to order, which took about a week, delivered to him. The T piece on central pillar as you show IIRC now, WAS tall, maybe to the roof, and with consultation with me on the job, he cut it down to just below the door catch, rather than do all the extra work entailed, (extra trim off and roof lining) all the way to just below roof
They were definitely 3 pieces, as I saw his photos as part of stage progress with discussion throughout

 

[MisterCruiser]

That's an interesting couple of posts there, good to see the diagram. Just to clarify, is the 120 the LWB and the 125 the SWB, as I thought it was the other way around.

Tractionman, you hardly have a couple of pics of your sill work being done?

Also, is the 90 series and 120 series got the same chassis? The sills on my 90 look a lot more awkward design than the 120 but maybe it's in my mind haha

Edit: I forgot to ask, is the inner sill the same as in 3 pieces too?


I didn't think by the design that it'd be possible for the sill to be 1 continuous length either but this one in the link below is 200cm / 6ft8" long 1 continuous length, hmmmm. It also states it will fit both a SWB and a LWB, how can that be the case, would the LWB not need a longer length?
North South 4x4 Spares - NS4x4 - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Rob Cowell]

120 is LWB, 125 is SWB. Opposite to the 90 SWB and 95 LWB. Who knows why?!

The chassis are similar, but not definitely the same.

Here's the diagram for a 125.

 

[MisterCruiser]

Is this the bracket in my original post in my picture?
North South 4x4 Spares - NS4x4 - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Rob Cowell]

I didn't think by the design that it'd be possible for the sill to be 1 continuous length either but this one in the link below is 200cm / 6ft8" long 1 continuous length, hmmmm. It also states it will fit both a SWB and a LWB, how can that be the case, would the LWB not need a longer length?

It could be one piece if you are taking a grinder down the side and splicing it in. The pattern part just seems to be (about) the right profile. Just the job for me probably, but then bits of my side mouldings are either missing or held on with wood screws and No More Nails Form over function!

 

[Rob Cowell]

Is this the bracket in my original post in my picture?
North South 4x4 Spares - NS4x4 - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

No, thats the bracket that your lower control arm bolts to on the chassis. You want a bracket for the upper arm, if such a thing exists as an aftermarket part, but I've never seen one. It really isn't hard to fabricate though, just needs a bit of fettling. Round here I'd look for someone who welds tractors. Of course it's all new Land Cruiser Commercials and 300hp Fendt's in Ireland, so maybe they're fancier down your way

 

[MisterCruiser]

No, thats the bracket that your lower control arm bolts to on the chassis. You want a bracket for the upper arm, if such a thing exists as an aftermarket part, but I've never seen one. It really isn't hard to fabricate though, just needs a bit of fettling. Round here I'd look for someone who welds tractors. Of course it's all new Land Cruiser Commercials and 300hp Fendt's in Ireland, so maybe they're fancier down your way

Knew it was too good to be true, I'll get someone to have a look at it fabricating it with me, just thought if that was it it'd be little handier. Cheers for confirming.
Haha, regards the Fendt's, yeah tis amazing the amount of new big machinery in the country now, the North of Ireland is even worse for the shiny new stuff I reckon.