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Diff Drop.....Jon

warrenpfo

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Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
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I will need to install a diff drop along with the new suspension when I have decided what brand I will be going with but it will be 2" of lift.

I know Jon made his own and that one is still not able to buy off the shelf here in the UK, I also know I could make my own but dont have access to all the tools required so wanted to ask if anyone is going to the USA anytime soon or if Jon might be able to assist for a fee of course.

Any other bright ideas welcome
 
Warren, just reading this in conjunction with your ASFIR and suspension install plans - have you sussed out whether you need to do an ASFIR plate drop kit as well? I'm not sure what drop you'll put in (On terms of mm dropped) and how much clearance that puts / leaves between the diff and ASFIR front plate.

Any spacer in the plate may also affect attachment for the transmission plate?

Best have a good measure-up when you've done the ASFIR plates and check you're not going to cause major headaches for yourself. :lol:

Cheers
 
FYI you can order the Slee one from Just diffs
I have :D
Gary, the Asfir plates can be made to work with a diff drop
 
Excellent on the plates!

And in terms of delivery from the US, have a look at BundleBox - may be a potential solution.
 
I can make more diff drop kits guys but not for peanuts, I'm no monkey :lol: still be a lot cheaper than importing a Slee kit though. The front bash plate should be ok with any kit, you just insert the spacers and it bolts to a fixed cross member not the diff support. The gearbox bash plate may need some adjustment to work with a diff drop though and you'd have to work that out when the two came together.
 
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It would seem I am in luck and might be able to get a slee diffdrop kit brought over for me so long as its weighs less than 10kg.

Anyone want to hazard a guess for me as to its weight or can confirm it will weigh less than 10kg.

Thanks
 
Can't be more than 500g or so? Some spacers and bolts, unless it's very different to the 120 drop kit I've been working on ...
 
Jon - did you mill yours from ally round bar to 25mm or so, with a 16mm bore? Or did you use polyurethane? I'm considering the poly route (it's easier for me to work at the moment :? ) - is there a lot (any??) movement there that would preclude using poly as a spacer do you think?
 
The slee one has a crossmembe piece as well?
I would need to know how long it is too to see if it would fit in my case
 
Gary Stockton said:
Jon - did you mill yours from ally round bar to 25mm or so, with a 16mm bore? Or did you use polyurethane? I'm considering the poly route (it's easier for me to work at the moment :? ) - is there a lot (any??) movement there that would preclude using poly as a spacer do you think?
I used Aluminium, if you use plastic I would use a strong one that won't flex. The 100 diff drop has a cross member as Andy said so not just spacers which is why the Slee ones are so expensive even without shipping.
 
Thanks Jon - I'll get some round bar then and have a play with that. Will be fun getting both bits exactly the same height!
 
I should have a lathe again at the end of the month if you don't manage it :lol: Should I clean up and fettle that little hot glue gun for you now I have some time and space on my hands or do you have other plans / requirements now?
 
Nope, no other plans - so that would be fantastic - was thinking about that just yesterday :clap:

I've still to get under the wagon properly to have a good look-see - i think I have enough room for the drop without hitting the ASFIR plate because that isn't profiled at all at that section, so that'll simplify things.

Sorry for the hi-jack, guys!
 
Somethings puzzling me here now - I'm sure it's just me being a bit dim as per usual. :lol:

I get the need for a diff drop kit - it levels out the CV angles after a lift so that at the least they run 'straight' and at best they don't bind up under full axle travel or on full steering lock.

all fine so far. :thumbup:

But - surely then the T-Case to front diff angles go wonky becuase you've now moved the front diff onto a lower plane than the T-Case etc. Or can those joints - UJ's I guess? handle the slightly increased angles?

Or have I lost the plot here entirely? It's a Friday afternoon, so I may have :lol: :lol:
 
the diffdrop kits only usually lower the front part of diff, the back part pivots.
however, yes the UJ will still be sitting in a different position
 
OK - so I'm not (entirely :D ) doff then. I assume that with UJ's being the device they are that they can handle those extra angles without too much of a problem?
 
The diff drop should keep the diff level, so the diff and prop shaft flanges are parallel, in an ideal word, that's what I did with my diff drop. If only the front of the diff is dropped then you get a similar effect to what happens on a solid front axle with a suspension lift but it's such a small drop it's unlikely to cause any problems.
 
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