Drawers

[Guest]

John,
I can open it up on my original link but can not on the one I have sent out?
So I see your problem but I have noticed that the address is not complete
that is underlined URL the rest of the address is underneath the first part.
Maybe if you join it up it will be more useful. Julian or an other computer
expert may have a suggestion. I hope that this makes sense, it probably
does not to any one but me.
Anthony
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Anthony Graham
Sent: 04 February 2005 22:32
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Drawers
John
Yes I tried your link and I see what you mean. I tried and was OK so try
this
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4153900093&code=14367795&
mode=invite&DCMP=isc-email-AlbumInvite
Anthony
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 04 February 2005 22:14
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Drawers
Hi Anthony
I tried to see the the drawers but could only get all the photos of his
cruiser, help me.
JOHN C 92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4153900093&code=14367795&

 

[Guest]

Thanks Anthony that did it now all I need is a carpenter, welder, mechanic,
fabricator, forman, quanity surveyer, some tools, time, a good back, doctor,
nurse of course, tea maker, ill stop there cos its late and I really need my
beauty sleep even though its doing no good still as ugly as ever.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HD-T Ireland

 

[Guest]

On Friday 04 February 2005 20:06, Anthony Graham wrote:
Thanks Anthony, these pictures and your previous notes certainly will help us
come up with something .
Debbie
Merseyside, UK
1983 HJ60

 

[Guest]

Tony,
Thanks for your description. I also started from building a bombproof
structure that was designed to take heavy load on top, but it was just
as heavy as the load itself. Now I after a solution that will be easy
to put in and take out, strong enough to sleep on it and convenient to
store the cargo with easy access to all compartments.
Not using the rear seats I need a bit different approach - all the
space at the back needs to be accessible. Using only drawers extending
from the rear would need runners with an extremely long reach. Access
to the space behind the front seats is possible through the rear doors
but because these doors open by less than 90 degrees drawers can't be
extended all the way out. Perhaps a combination of storage
compartments opening from the top sitting right behind the and front
seats and drawers at the back will be an answer.
On the other hand, as I mentioned earlier, rather than screwing down
boxes behind front seats I could just as well make all boxes
removable. I'll need to figure out how to lash them down easily and
quickly or use some sort of quick action catch system. Any ideas,
please?
As for water storage, in the footwell behind the front seats you can
put four black plastic NATO water jerry cans (side by side). I am
going to make a light structural cage to keep them in place and that
should do the trick. Filling through a hose shoud be quite easy and
spillage (contrary to fuel) is not a problem. When not in use that can
be removed and the cost of this solution is realy negligible - one can
costs about a tenner.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 11:00:38 -0000, Tony Steele <[Email address removed]> wrote:

 

[Guest]

If you are thinking of building your own draws, check out the following
links:
http://www.geocities.com/~jjjoutside/cabinet.html
and
http://home.off-road.com/~cruiserhead/80drawer/80drawer.html
If you have a 60 series there are full plans at:
http://home.off-road.com/~cruiserhead/drawer/tlcbox.html
One source for the sliders is get them from old full sized office
filling cabinets - they are designed to carry the weight and extend a
long way out.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB

 

[Guest]

Hi Tony,
Whilst talking about suitable materials, can't you get some sort of
laminate, a bit like ply but with plastic injected for extra strength.
I was actually suggesting them as a source of suitable runners - they
are about the right length and very strong.
Now if only we could afford carbon fibre drawers!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift, ARB

 

[Guest]

Dear Roman
I am not sure how posting, threads and so on work but I receive e-mails and
have seen some about drawer systems.
I looked into this in a bit of detail and even got a quote from an
Australian company for import to UK http://www.tanami4wd.com.au/
In the end I went to a joiner and got a set of drawers made (Cost ?1,000
!!!!!!). I paid over the odds and could have got it made for ?600-700.
The drawers are just the right size to fit behind rear seats. They are the
right height to put a small fridge on (small indoset). With the back seat
folded down and an extension it makes a good emergency bed with a fair
amount of head room.
I have had a water tank made of about 60 litres which attaches to the side
of the drawers. This sits over the wheel arch looking quite neat.
Heavy duty runners are needed. Accuride 9301 are said to be good, very
strong, very expensive, very heavy but good.
High quality 3/4 ply is as strong but heavy. The drawer system I had made
consists of two large drawers, one above the other, which fills the space
behind the back seats between the wheel arches to a height of 60cm. It was
fantastically heavy, I estimate about 100Kg. It was so heavy that it took a
fork lift to get it in the back.
I have since had about 60% of the weight removed by having non structural
parts removed. The base, for example, does not need to be solid and the back
panel behind the seats can be fenestrated (large windows cut into the wood).
Even the base and sides of the draws do not need to be solid. The 3/4 inch
ply is strong enough to produce a rigidity with much of the panels cut away.
What can be cut out and what needs to be left takes some thinking about.
I am happy with the end result.
If I had a workshop, access to a whole range of materials, including
different thicknesses of ply, and maybe some sort of angle iron and some way
of joining and fixing it all, I would maybe do it differently. But making a
very strong heavy wooden system and then lightening it is not a bad option.
If anyone want details just let me know.
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Drawers
80series.

 

[Guest]

John wrote
I have been looking at this issue for a few days now and still have not found the ideal material for the job YET but I will at some stage.
What I am looking at is some thing that is light but strong as you have said and can be put together and taken apart fairly easly. It should be able to adjust to what you need and be able to be added to when you want. This sounds great but not as easy as it may seem at first. The other issue I have is the cost and trying to keep it down as far as possible. Another issue for me is the fact that last year I ruptured a disk in my lower back and now find it very difficult to do a lot of the things I took for granted before. Thats why now I am looking at weight, the drawers not mine Im sick of looking at mine. I had a talk with a guy that runs a pine furniture shop and he said he can make what I want in pine but said he thinks that the pine would not be strong enough. He suggested MDF and he can make what I want in this material. I have to give him drawings of what I want and he will give me a price. Now I know that MDF is cheap to buy by the sheet but I think it is heavy but how heavy I dont know yet. I looked at perspex but it is light but too btittle. Ply is heavy but strong, and why carry all that extra weight and then bother to see what you are getting to the gallon or litre of diesel. Sheet tin could work because it is light but I reakon it would be very noisy, so no way, if you lot are like me I hate one rattle in the Cruiser never mind a whole rear section clanging away.
I will just keep looking ,as you say tony the answer is out there some where. <<<<<<<<<<<
Sorry to hear about your back.
I looked for a long time.
I am pretty sure that MDF is nearly as heavy, maybe even heavier than ply. I could be wrong about this but I have worked with MDF and it is definitely not light. There is a light weight version of MDF; how light and how strong I do not know. Pine, for sure, is not strong enough; not for off road. MDF also soaks up water in the same way cardboard does so it would need waterproofing. Water and ply do not mix either but with MDF this is more critical.
The beauty of 3/4 ply is that it is way stronger than it needs to be so the structure does not need to be made out of solid sheets. The drawers can be made out of strips of ply or made out of solid sheets that are later cut down.
And, there are different grades of ply. The high grade stuff, European birch ply, I think, is stronger (I would have to double check the details of this)
The drawer systems that are custom made by companies in Aus and South Africa use sheet metal. I am pretty sure the end result is heavy.
I saw a custom made job made out of sheet steel for a Land Rover. I was surprised at how heavy one small drawer was.
The materials cost when having the drawers made, if the runners are excluded, is only a small part of the overall cost.
For really heavy duty use, if you are going for wood, then I would go for ply.
And finally, if you go to a joiner, and some even have computerised cutting set ups, all you need to give them is the outside dimensions of the box and the details of what sort of runner you want to use. They can do all the rest. The clearances are determined by the runners and some sort of rules know only to joiners so that the drawer size follows from the box size.
Best Wishes
Tony