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Engine vibration 1HD-T

I use to have to regularly "decoke" my engines in the 50's-60's. This was the word used to describe taking the cylinder head off and stripping it to remove carbon deposits. It involved all petrol cars. Even all those years ago if there was a way to get rid of carbon without stripping the head it would have been found. Diesel engines used to suffer as well especially on the intake system and on the back of the inlet valves.

Perhaps oily carbon could be removed without stripping but no more effectively than an "Italian Decoke" which involves driving flat out for 20 miles with the rev counter just at the red.
 
A 'How do I know it's done any good' type question might be of use when you pick it up Shayne.

The answer they gave to that was "most report better fuel consumption and the car has a bit more go" all the lads had gone so this was from the receptionist/boss (i think the latter is more accurate)

I can feel no difference whatsoever power wise and i'm gutted i had the lower ball joints changed at the same time because now i don't know if its them or the cleaning that results in the minor vibration i had before now being blatantly obvious if you put your hand anywhere on the car including on the tyres :icon-cry:
 
Well if you've got your hand on the tyre it isn't going to be the ball joints. [emoji6]
 
Just looked at the bill and i think i have my answer as to why the mild vibration is now worse which also tells me why it was vibrating at all . Without realizing i gave them new belts along with the ball joints as they were in the same box from Roughtrax . They have charged me for fitting the belts . Harmonic balancer it has to be unless an engine mount somehow fell out while they were cleaning the fuel .
 
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The decoke Frank........Dave breaks into singing mode with "those were the days my friend.....la la la" :icon-biggrin:

Yep, Red Hematite on everything, run engine, let it cool re-torque head bolts, set tappets....again, crappy cork gaskets that leaked three weeks later, things have moved on somewhat.

Ooops sorry StarCruiser nostalgia head on there. So, have you had any more time on this car? Be interesting if you have found anything.

Re Shayne's liquid decoke, I have had cars in the past where the emissions were too high, I would replace the fuel filter but first fill with injector cleaner, screw it on, start and let idle for about ten minutes. The results both in visible smoke and measurable emissions readings often surprised me/us but, as Shayne said you may be hard pushed to note a difference in performance. If there was to be any real improvements I would guess you could use slightly less throttle position, to maintain the same road speed, the engine burning more efficiently, but this would be minimal. The chemicals in the cleaner would probably contain something like paraffin, diesels run on pretty good on this and we used to use it to wash down engine parts so good cleansing properties to boot.

regards

Dave
 
Hi Dave, alas no further time spent on the car and won't have for a couple of weeks but I will be looking far more closely at that balancer and putting some lines on it etc. before I go any further.

Incidentally I did the fuel filter change with a fill up of Wynns Eco Diesel before the injectors were reconditioned.

With all the help and advice here I will get there. I will find it, I just need the time that's all.
 
My belt adjusters had been tightened with an airgun i think so i slacked them off a bit and i'm waiting for an independent review if the vibration is less as a result . I can't find any play in the pulley at all and talking to Roughtrax to make sure my crankshaft pulley does actually have a rubber harmonic i got the feeling this part doesn't generally come under suspicion until its well and truly knackered . Mark and monitor for me to .
 
Ok, had a good (well as good as it gets) look at the bottom pulley/ harmonic balancer yesterday. With access limited, I removed the AC belt and put a screwdriver in between the two pulleys and levered as much as I could. The outer sheave moves in relation to its neighbour and the engine, then moves back again. Tried in several places and it felt the same. I've marked the pulleys against each other with tippex and tried to see them with the strobe effect from an LED torch, which was the best I have. I could see the nuts going round on the water pump but not the white marks.

Presumably if the rubbers are detached in some way, these marks should move relative to one another over the coming weeks/months.

I feel it is well and truly attached, but we will have to see. Short of taking a lot of bits off, I don't think I'm going to get better.

Video below but it's difficult to see the small movement. https://vimeo.com/137057159
 
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I've never had experience of a failed balancer so can't help on that one. I take it the rust creeps in and eventually separates the rubber from the metal?
 
Neither have I (I think/hope). Truth is, it looks so solid, feels solid and does what I would expect.

I have however seen rubber come apart from a bond and its been fairly clean but with a last stubborn bit of rubber that's ripped off.

Now, while I've been in the mood, I've jacked the engine up by the sump, gently but firmly.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440349254.236498.jpg

Then I've had a look at the gearbox rear mount and it looks great, (no, the lines are just marks)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440349290.154295.jpg
the LH engine mount and it looks great
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440349365.242563.jpg
and the RH one that's smothered in oil and muck from a weeping turbo outlet hose but looks, well, great.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440349399.520782.jpg

So I am so disappointed [emoji22][emoji22][emoji22]. I had my money on the balancer, but with the sneaking suspicion that there was something internal. Now I've got to do compression test and bore scope.

Can't believe it. It's a Toyota for goodness sake!! [emoji22][emoji22][emoji22]
 
I've never had experience of a failed balancer so can't help on that one. I take it the rust creeps in and eventually separates the rubber from the metal?

Hi Frank, either that or the heat gets to them or the rubber simply deteriorates. Very common on modern vehicles now, and simply switching on the AC can break the bond between the two! Some have 'stops' similar to a lot of dual mass flywheels this allows the owner to get the car home but with it loosening your filling on the way, the ones with no stops for example the Ford Maverick simply throws the outer pulley into the radiator with expected results, or the ancillaries stop turning, and as the electronics on a typical modern vehicle will not play when the battery voltage falls the engine stops after a few miles.

regards

Dave
 
Might have a new episode to this as I jumped in the truck at 5-45 this morning and by the time I had got a mile down the road it was chuffing like a steam engine!!![emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
 
Yikes ! fingers crossed for you mate its not what it seems , a couple of your recent posts had me thinking you have finally caught the modifying bug (quote "my truck looks lowered in comparison" , "i do like those headlights") but i guess the fever will have to be put on hold for the time being .
 
Fever definitely on hold Shayne until this vibration is sorted.

Not as bad as it could have been and a red herring as far as this thread goes.

The result so far now I've got back to look at the truck.

No5 injector seal blown.

My fault. Didn't replace it well enough. [emoji22]
 
I'm sure finding a fixable fault brought about a huge sigh of relief though , with regards to the vibration mine turned out to be the intercooler tapping on the heater valve which in turn must have vibrated the bulkhead ever so slightly . I was convinced it was coming from the engine but there you go .
 
Unfortunately mine is a 'feel' rather than anything else and I haven't got any further down the road as I've been too busy on other things. I still have a shed load of stuff to check. I want to do a proper compression test and cannot find anyone to do it. Considering a trip to Overland Cruisers TBH.

Glad you found yours BTW.
 
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You know your truck as i do mine and it was a sense rather than something i could hear or feel the contact was on plastic which must have been wobbling the metal bracket bolted to the bulkhead and of course it was in tune with the engine .
 
I know what you mean. Mine is difinitely an engine vibration, worse at idle and just after start up. Runs absolutely fine, plenty of power, plenty of grunt and nothing but a ships of smoke that I've seen worse on other trucks that are running fine.

I've just gotta get on with it.
 
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