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Engine vibration 1HD-T

Feeling the frustration Rich, this would drive me nuts!

I'd almost prefer to find something wrong, at least you'd know where you stood :angry-screaming:
 
Just read your edit…does this mean…I don't have to pull the cam off and check springs?

Thanks for finding that BTW.
 
Just read your edit…does this mean…I don't have to pull the cam off and check springs?

Thanks for finding that BTW.

I recon so.

Trust me, I don't know what I'm talking about, it's just what I found with a brief trawl, from about 4 different sources.

I wouldn't know whether it should be 200 or 800 psi, but others seem to know. Have a google yourself... and see if what I found stacks up.
 
Well, it all fits:-

Starts on the button, 1/2 a key
No appreciable smoke (now the injector is seated)
Garage gave the impression that 500 psi was respectable.
It drives well, plenty of power.

I'll have a check myself. Must be in the manual somewhere.
 
I've gone no further with this. After the batteries died and the alarm locked me out on Christmas Eve [emoji35] money's a bit tighter than planned.

I'm increasingly thinking it's worth having the pump tested.

I have to say, aside from this vibration, which incidentally is showing far more in the colder weather, the truck is going very well indeed since the injectors were serviced. [emoji3][emoji3]

Anyway, by way of update I took a video, mainly for the sound, to try and show how it's behaving shortly after start up.

The video starts with the truck on fast idle on the hand throttle but I gradually let it die back to its cold starting idle.
See what you guys think. It's most noticing everyone audible when the revs drop to between 1200 and 1000 but once it's able to get down to 800/900 then it really vibrates. Any tinkling noises are coming from stuff in the back.

https://vimeo.com/152073845
 
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I've gone no further with this. After the batteries died and the alarm locked me out on Christmas Eve [emoji35] money's a bit tighter than planned.

I'm increasingly thinking it's worth having the pump tested.

I have to say, aside from this vibration, which incidentally is showing far more in the colder weather, the truck is going very well indeed since the injectors were serviced. [emoji3][emoji3]

Anyway, by way of update I took a video, mainly for the sound, to try and show how it's behaving shortly after start up.

The video starts with the truck on fast idle on the hand throttle but I gradually let it die back to its cold starting idle.
See what you guys think. It's most noticing everyone audible when the revs drop to between 1200 and 1000 but once it's able to get down to 800/900 then it really vibrates. Any tinkling noises are coming from stuff in the back.

https://vimeo.com/152073845

Sorry Rich, I played that three times and it sounds sweet to me. If I did a vid of mine, it would sound like a can of nails.

No joke, I'm no help to you on this one.
 
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It's not easy to hear really, it's almost a knock knock knock at certain revs.

Thanks for listening though Clive.
 
Is it a vibration or a noise your looking for ?

"knock knock knock" and wynn's egr cleaner instantly popped into my mind because that's what it gives you when applied correctly . Perhaps there's a clue in that somewhere ?
 
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Trying to imagine what makes the wynns knock and the only thing i can think of is early detonation . Too much fuel could cause that could it not ?
 
Good on boost and rough when not also suggests too much fuel . Leaking intake ? sticky boost compensator ?
 
Thanks Shayne, but surely if it were too much fuel, wouldn't it be revving away? I don't have an EGR ([emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]) and I'm certainly not going to put EGR cleaner through it (that's not what you're suggesting I know).

I think you are, in fact, saying the timing is too advanced and that is something that's been mentioned before by the local garage as a possibility. It does seem to make sense if this is occurring on one cylinder. They thought I should get it re timed but I cannot see how it could be out as the timing marks are correct on the belt and I haven't rotated the pump nor is it loose.

By pure process of elimination the engine has good compression, the injectors are newly reconditioned. The only thing left is pump or something mechanical connected to the engine all the time.

Pump testing next I think.
 
Timing is about keeping the balance and so to is the air to fuel ratio . The right mix at tickover is not the right mix on boost and visa versa .
 
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You can eliminate the pump by just loosening each injector pipe in turn with the engine idling. Each pipe loosened should have the same effect on the idle sound/feel. This does not mean of course that the pump works perfectly. If the vibration is bad at idle it may be difficult to detect the effect of loosening the pipes.
 
Thanks Frank, I did try this early on and it just added a vibration each time that masked everything else.

Thinking about it, it was suggested to slow the idle right down and listen, perhaps combining the two would show up a cylinder.

I'm going to have a word with Panda diesel in Fareham as they've been recommended and see what they say.
 
I don't think incorrect pump timing would cause a vibration. You can move the pump miles round and nothing much happens. Incidentally the marks on the pump body are as a guide only. The pump gets more and more retarded as the drive train to it wears.
 
Interesting Frank, I had a big question mark over timing in my brain cell. Hearing that makes me think even more it is something in the pump that's not right. It seems to have come on suddenly and got slightly worse, probably with temperature, though S&S Diesels i took it to said without another thought 'well it's not the pump' which makes me think that's an assumption that needs confirming.
 
I think it came on suddenly because a vacuum pipe split and it got worse because your injectors are now perfect so the discrepancy became more noticeable .
 
I think it came on suddenly because a vacuum pipe split and it got worse because your injectors are now perfect so the discrepancy became more noticeable .

It's a theory worthy of investigation Shayne. However, it's like it's one cylinder, like a spider with one wooden leg.
 
I don't know your engine but i imagine there is a vacuum line from the intake to the pump which tells the pump to allow extra fuel on boost . Assuming the boost pressure pushes a diaphragm to auto switch the extra fuel on i wonder what returns the diaphragm to switch off extra fuel - a spring maybe ? could be weak allowing extra fuel when you don't need it ?
 
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There are turbo control lines Shayne but if I had too much fuel, surely it would just run faster under no load, and it would be to all cylinders evenly, wouldn't it?
 
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