Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Eventually started with some jobs

The return pipe washers are a cunning design and ought to be joined. When you do the bolt up the lower washer bites into the razor sharp square top of the injector. This stops it turning when tight. The link also stops the top washer tuning and the bolt is also gripped sideways as the top washer compresses. This whole thing stops the bolt from coming loose.

I've played the rising oil level and dropping oil pressure game.
 
Maybe not everyone’s cup of tea, but I don’t like chrome!
Getting on with some more jobs, finished the deep clean inside and now it doesn’t smell of sheep inside, it’s had a fairly quick machine polish
Having to do a bit of garden work and get prepared for the remaining tarmac and drains before I get to do too much more but hopefully next week do the front axle rebuild / swap out the casing

Looking for some 10x 16 steel wheels if anyone has any for sale

Cheers

3691EF6D-1137-460B-90FA-CE33D5DCC70E.jpeg
 
Chrome is for Harley like motorbikes so i will be doing the same , not sure what to do about the roof bars though .
 
Chrome is for Harley like motorbikes so i will be doing the same , not sure what to do about the roof bars though .

Bin them Shayne, well that's what I did.

It was a useless piece of kit for carrying anything and any weight on it would have dented the roof in at the feet. (Ask me how I know...)

The only problem is what to do with the holes in the roof. I was lucky, decided it was going to go before the re-spray, so he welded plates under each hole and skimmed them with some filler. You could use some black painted stainless dome heads, you can't see them anyway with an 8" lift :lol:
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
:doh:
B404A34A-BE0B-494E-A8FC-08D0EF94ED1D.jpeg
If like me you decide to use the rubber gasket again to seal the roof holes Jake DON’T clean them , I made mine like new using turps to get the old glue off and rubber conditioner , and as a result I messed about for hours trying to get the damn things to sit tidy :icon-rolleyes:

Hence it got to dark and damp but the plan is to fill the rubber with putty smooth it off and paint , might have taken me an hour had I left the rubber alone and just added some new gasket seal :doh:
 
Shayne, did you put some new sealer on the bottom of them before refitting? I haven’t thought as far up as that yet? I might weld them up when I change the rack and get the roof painted, the centre of the roof is still the original Toyota blue! Well I may even get the whole thing painted next winter

I used this for repairing holes in the dash, https://www.toolstation.com/big-boy-flexible-filler/p31685?searchstr=Flexible filler it may be better for filling the topside of the rubber

Cheers
 
Yeah i used Granville clear instant gasket , i should have taken a pic because its hard to explain that the rubber by design is a bit like a suction cup and weight must be applied as it is with the Toyota rack in that little groove you see to make outer the skirt sit flat . no weight in that groove and you end up with a frilly skirt .

Too late i just realized i should have cleaned and refreshed the rubber put some instant gasket on and replaced them ant the Toyota rack just to let the glue set :doh:

Paints good and original on my truck so i'm not going to mess with it , if all goes to plan very soon the roof and these hole plugs will be hidden forever so i just wanted a quick tidy fix .
 
Well that didn't work overnight damp lifted 2 corners and the weather once again decided it hates me .

Sat here scratching my head knowing the rack will arrive today i noticed the metal epoxy putty is not only waterproof but it will set in damp conditions , and so though i swore i'd never use it again i guess i will be at halfords tomorrow looking for Toyota black paint .
 
How about using rubber grommets, upside down and fill them with the epoxy for some strength?

Cheers
 
I like the seats. I'd love to put something like that in mine. Can you cover how you do that please? Ie seat base change over, make from scratch or whatever.

@Chris I installed the drivers seat, but the depth of the seat base mounted directly to the Toyota runners made the seat too high, and getting in and out difficult squeezing under the steering wheel, and had you looking out the top of the windscreen. Have to say it looked really good tho. Not finished messing about with them but not holding out too much hope for them being fitted!

Cheers
 
Bolts are captive in the Toyota rack its held with normal nuts inside the truck . I filled the holes with the metal putty today , i was just trying to save you some time messing about in case you had similar ideas for a quick fix .
 
How easy to get the axle off for derusting/painting
 
I haven’t taken it off yet, I’ll be home in around 10-11 days so will be planning to get started on it soon after that, I had used some rust converter I got from work and an assortment of wire wheels on the grinder to clean up the replacement , before spray painting with smoothrite. It’s worth mentioning that when doing the balls on either end you want to make sure you have a nice smooth even coat of paint to give the hub seals the best chance of lasting

I would guess its not a hard job to remove, but i have served my time on the spanner’s, although I don’t mechanic for a living anymore I still shout at them at work some days!
Having good quality correct tools for the job and a decent workspace always makes the job easier

Cheers
 
That oil rig paint must be pretty good stuff?..:)
 
Back
Top