Gear Lever Rattle

DaveWall

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Anyone else got a wobbly stick?

Find mine is possibly a bit more loose than it should be between the black metal sleave (that pokes up through the gater) and the gear leaver rod that actually comes out of the gearbox.

I did pull the trim back but couldn't see an obvious way to tighten this up??? (it was dark, did I miss something obvious)

Cheers,

Dave
 

BobMurphy

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Its amazing . . I take dozens of pictures when I am working on the car yet, when I go looking for a specific shot six months later I can't find anything useful :?

The gear lever has a sprung-loaded upper section and the lower section is held onto the gearbox via a 'turret' held down by four bolts (actually 'Set Screws' but hey-ho).

These appear to be the best shots I've got :roll:


DSCN4622.jpg



DSCN4625-1.jpg



When I had mine apart, I couldn't see any obvious method of separating the two halves of the lever (but I wasn't trying to). The Max Ellery manual doesn't show anything about the gear lever.

The Toyota parts diagram shows a replacable seat for the ball-end of the lower end of the lever, but the lever itself is a single unit.

It looks like you're stuck with a rattling lever, unless you want to replace it.

You could try removing it, turning it upside down and squirting in some silicone sealant. That should quieten it whilst still allowing some articulation.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Bob.
 

DaveWall

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Thanks Bob, sorry to take ages to get back to you - I have long periods away from technology due to work...

Sounds exactly where my problem is - indeed it does look like two parts with a bonded rubbery bush of some soft between the bit you grab and the bit on the gearbox (I guess to soften the change slightly) the bond obvioulsy wasn't very good on mine, but I'm long past any warranty claim :) Might have to try and improvise (I've tried upside down, but there is no hole, I may have to drill the upper black hollow tube and fill with TigerSeal or a mastic product to stop the two rattling.

when you move my stick you can clearly hear the metal of the shaft inside, hit the metal of the upper outer tube, I blame the mrs's driving but that doesn't go down too well!

Thanks,

Dave

P.s. wonder how much a new one is from Toyota??????
 

BobMurphy

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DaveWall said:
P.s. wonder how much a new one is from Toyota??????

The Toyota Parts Diagram shows the lever sub-assembly to be priced at Euro 87.68 - but that may be well out of date now.

Try Ian Rubie (idrubie), he can normally get parts a lot cheaper than from Toyota.

The Part Number is:

33530F (33530-60340) - Lever Assembly, shift (for floor shift).

The 'sub-assembly' includes the jointed lever, the bush that the business end of the lever runs in, a conical spring, the cap that holds the lever against the spring and the rubber boot.

If you want the plastic seat that the lever pivot cup runs in it is part number:

33505B (33505-35030) - Seat Sub Assembly, Shift Lever.

The quoted Toyota price is Euro 23.73.


I would try injecting silicon sealant first - what have you got to lose :?:


Bob.
 
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sae70

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Hi there this is my first post here & I will get around to saying hello :)

I've very rescently purchased a 98MY 3.0TD SWB Colorado with exactly the same rattle that is sending me slowly mad :evil:

So stumbling over this thread has made me less agitated by it ;) I think I'm going to remove the entire stick one evening so I can turn it upside down & fill it with a mastic of some kind as you've already described :)

I just wonder if those in the know could just advise with regard the removal of the stick that once the four set screws are removed the stick just pulls out & then just goes straight back in again without having to worry about catching springs or being it a certain gear etc :|


Regards


Steven
 

BobMurphy

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sae70 said:
I just wonder if those in the know could just advise with regard the removal of the stick that once the four set screws are removed the stick just pulls out & then just goes straight back in again without having to worry about catching springs or being it a certain gear etc :|

Hello and Welcome :clap:

Undo the four bolts with the lever in neutral and it just lifts out.

Nothing jumps out to bite you :lol:

The Lever is attached to an extension to the rear of the gearbox (above the fittings for the transfer box). There is very little in there apart from the end of a selector shaft and a nylon bush.

I took mine apart last winter and my memory is fading now :?

I found it easier to fill the box by pouring oil in the gear lever fitting than by squirting it in from underneath :thumbup: . It needs time to drain in and settle though.


Bob.
 

sae70

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I was on the phone with my local Toyota main stealer on Friday ordering some replacement broken plastic trim bits & thought I'd ask how much a replacement gearstick would be :p

£88 + VAT :o :o :lol: :lol: :lol: (That's £103.40) You can buy alot of mastic for that :lol:
 

sae70

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OK couldn't put up with the rattle any longer so I yanked out the gear stick, drilled a couple of holes in it, filled it with mastic then hung it up to dry :D :thumbup: Good job I don't need the car every day as it takes 24hours to set :lol:

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I'll let you know the outcome when it's dried & all back together :thumbup:
 

sae70

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Don't rush to do this yet as it's been three days & the mastic inside has not yet set :? :( If I'd left the top off the tube of mastic the whole lot would have set by now :!: Typical :roll: I've now drilled a hole on the opposite side & after making certain it is full of mastic have hung it up again :pray: I'll let you know how it goes :)
 

Ecky Thump

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The mastic doesn't set in the tube too fast because there is no air getting to it and I suspect this is the problem you are facing now it is inside the gearstick.
Perhaps a very slow bake would make it set, maybe about the heat you get from a clothes dryer :?:

I can see your other half removing body parts if you have it clanging around in the dryer though :lol:
 

Chas

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When I need to 'dry' things gently I put them in the airing cupboard above the central heating boiler, might work for you :thumbup:
Chas
 

sae70

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Ecky Thump said:
The mastic doesn't set in the tube too fast because there is no air getting to it and I suspect this is the problem you are facing now it is inside the gearstick.
Perhaps a very slow bake would make it set, maybe about the heat you get from a clothes dryer :?:

I can see your other half removing body parts if you have it clanging around in the dryer though :lol:
Reminds me of someone (Dave Bits4Vits) when he used his dishwasher to clean a pair of free wheeling hubs :p The hubs were great it did a good job on 'em but the dishwasher was less than happy & his wife :shock: :evil: It took a couple of those dishwasher cleaning things to pull things back to normall again :lol:

Cossack said:
When I need to 'dry' things gently I put them in the airing cupboard above the central heating boiler, might work for you :thumbup:
Chas
Mmmm........no airing cupboard I'm affraid :( Just an uber modern water cylinder under one of the staircases so well insulated that you wouldn't even know it was on :roll: :)


:think: :think: Were off out to a family do today so maybe leave it in the oven on a very low heat & sundry it like the wifes been doing with our surpless tomatoes :think:
 

Ecky Thump

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We really needs Andrew Prince to comment as he is the chemist.

I dont know if the oven maybe too hot and will the mastik catch fire :?:
 

sae70

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Ecky Thump said:
We really needs Andrew Prince to comment as he is the chemist.

I dont know if the oven maybe too hot and will the mastik catch fire :?:
This is starting to turn into some kind of flameing batton circus act :lol: :think: Maybe I'll hang it in the bathroom above the lecy towel rail :thumbup:
 

sae70

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sae70 said:
Maybe I'll hang it in the bathroom above the lecy towel rail :thumbup:
The smell of EP90's not going down so well in the bathroom :| Girls :roll: :lol: ;)
 

Jon Wildsmith

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If it's solvent based (which it probably is) then it could take a very long time to set in there!
 

BobMurphy

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Ooooops . . That's another fine mess I've got you into :whistle:

I normally use the clear 'universal' sealant as it seems to set OK in confined spaces. Some of the other stuff can take days to cure.

I hope it all works out OK in the end.

Bob.
 

sae70

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BobMurphy said:
Ooooops . . That's another fine mess I've got you into :whistle:

I normally use the clear 'universal' sealant as it seems to set OK in confined spaces. Some of the other stuff can take days to cure.

I hope it all works out OK in the end.

Bob.
No No No don't feel bad :D I only used the sealent that I did as I had it & it does when dry end up like a bit of rubber so I thought it would perfect for the job :roll: It is slowly getting better but it has been six days now & it is still a lille sloppy :) But to be fair it is less sloppy than it was without the mastic in it & it no longer rattles so on balance an improvement & fingers crossed it may oneday be completely set :whistle: I spoke with a couple of my off roading m8's about it & they suggested all kinds of two pack items such as Araldite, metal putty, fibre glass resin etc but all of these thing set rock hard & I think would be no good as a result :think: What it needs is a two pack rubber solution to the problem that you can buy from Halfords or B&Q :D I'll keep you up to date with what happens :thumbup: I've just put it ontop of one of the kids lecy oil rads & turned it up to 24 degrees I shall refit it tomorrow morning no matter how set it is or not & live with it as is (less slop & no rattle) :D :thumbup:
 
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