Gearbox re-build

[Allchin]

I am shortly to start a gearbox rebuild. The gearbox is original and clocked 225k miles. 1st syncro is worn to a point the you have to stop the vehicle to change down from 2nd. 2nd syncro is very difficult from 3rd to 2nd when cold.

I will also be using the Gearbox rebuild tread as a very helpful guide

my question is: Where is the best source(cheapest) for a quality, full gearbox rebuild kit and for the syncro's

Stephen

 

[StarCruiser]

Have you tried Amayama Stephen?

 

[Dave2000]

I looked around when mine was apart year before last. I found the kits were way over priced and did not have all the parts you need, you then go off hunting again. For me it would have meant having to purchase different 'bags of bits', and then find I had 'doubles', in other words for me it did not make economical sense. Things may have improved but costs mount very quickly.

Good luck with this project.

regards

Dave

 

[Towpack]

The Ring sync No. 2 (from the EPC exploded diagrams) is £17.38 + VAT + ID + shipping from Amayama. I'm assuming this is the 2nd gear synchromesh ring. I would imagine the others will be around the same price. There doesn't appear to be a rebuild kit listed from Toyota (on the EPC anyway) but a third party vendor may do one? You may be able to get any bearings from a local bearing stockist when you have the box stripped and can take individual bearings in for comparison.

 

[karl webster]

I have a few different bits all genuine Toyota.
What year truck is it?

 

[Chris]

Well I shall be watching this for sure. I have one box that's a bit tricky 2nd to 1st when cold but otherwise fine and one that is a perfect change in every gear but noisy on over run in 5th at high speed. I figure it's a bearing. Running 50% mix of ATF and gear oil made a huge difference in the first box. Plenty of pics please.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

If you can get hold of a known good S/H box, preferably from a late 96-98 model ( the one with passenger air bag) thats been tried and tested then thats the way I'd go as they have all the upgrades on the synchros on them and change gear the best. I had my 95 85K GS box rebuilt as I had the second gear issue but but it was better with a new synchro but still not great due to its inherent design fault. In the end I bought a 97 80 for spares to get the gearbox which I drove and the box is slick as slick can be.
All I'm saying is that depending on your year a new synchro ring might improve it but not make it great.

 

[IRLGW]

speak to Simon at townsville gearboxes australia http://townsvillegearboxes.com.au/

 

[Allchin]

Have you tried Amayama Stephen?

I haven't, and I remember this has been mentioned before on the forum.

I have now bookmarked it

thanks

 

[Allchin]

I have a few different bits all genuine Toyota.
What year truck is it?

Its a 1996 24v 4.2

 

[Allchin]

depending on your year a new synchro ring might improve it but not make it great.

When I first bought the Landcruiser, the gearbox was reasonable and that I could put it into 1st whilst moving around 5mph with no problem, that is the aim of this project, additionally I would like to inspect the gearbox for the overall condition of the gears and bearings. Now it has got to the point that I need to stop before it engages 1st. The 2nd gear is now heading the same way as the 1st did, especially when cold. The last thing I want is a broken box in the middle of nowhere! I just have to make sure, I don't introduce a problem!

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

The main problem with the gearboxes of your era ( and my 95 as well) is the angle of the synchromesh cone on 1st and 2nd gear wheels on the mainshaft. The later types ( 97-98 80's and 98- 100's) are apparently not interchangeable. This angle was altered in late 96 ( when they were badged as Amazons) and the quality of the gearchange was vastly improved.
What you get with these gearboxes is a lottery, my GS at 80K had no synchro at all on 2nd but went back into 1st easily, I lived with double de clutching down for a time then had the 2nd gear synchro ring changed but it gave an acceptable improvement but not a patch on the later box of my GX. The white one Marsie had changed gear well into all gears so its a chance thing.
BTW I think the 2nd gear synchro ring was over £100 Genuine but imported.
Try changing the gearbox oil foR ATF, It wont hurt the box but it may improve the gearchange in my experience.

Hope some of this rambling helps.

 

[StarCruiser]

When I first bought the Landcruiser, the gearbox was reasonable and that I could put it into 1st whilst moving around 5mph with no problem, that is the aim of this project, additionally I would like to inspect the gearbox for the overall condition of the gears and bearings. Now it has got to the point that I need to stop before it engages 1st. The 2nd gear is now heading the same way as the 1st did, especially when cold. The last thing I want is a broken box in the middle of nowhere! I just have to make sure, I don't introduce a problem!

Ok, stupid question maybe here but it's not your clutch poorly disengaging is it? Sounds remarkably like it's still got a bit of drive to me. Can you gain a bit of length or move the slave cylinder (don't know as mines an auto) to try it out?

 

[frank rabbets]

Well worth checking the clutch. Even the slightest drag will ruin the change. Try bleeding the system first and check there is no loose play in the push rod in that order.

My 1995 only had about 30K on the clock when I had it in 1998 and the 2nd and 3rd gears were bad change from day 1. Not much worse if at all after 149k today. I think the change was slightly better with the original oil spec which you cannot get now.

 

[Beau]

Worth checking Ebay Australia, I'm sure I've seen rebuild kits coming from them...

 

[Chris]

FNB do them. I had a quote. After you mess about with shipping and UK tax Nazis, a new gearbox would be cheaper. If you can get things from Oz through the back door somehow ....

 

[Towpack]

Get someone to sit in the car, on level ground, engine off with 1st gear engaged and clutch pressed and try pushing (or pulling) the vehicle. Compare it with the clutch out and the box in neutral and even a slight drag will be noticeable.

 

[frank rabbets]

I'll check mine on level ground tomorrow and measure, with a ruler, how far the clutch pedal comes off the floor before it bites.

 

[Allchin]

Well worth checking the clutch. Even the slightest drag will ruin the change. Try bleeding the system first and check there is no loose play in the push rod in that order.

I am pretty sure that the clutch is ok. From memory the clutch bites fairly high on the peddle position.


Now the gearbox is out, I have noticed a small amount oil seepage on the back plate behind the flywheel, is it possible to change the end crankshaft oil seal? Is removing the flywheel difficult?

Stephen

 

[Dave2000]

Flywheel bolts are normally have thread lock on them, if you have access to a rattle gun they come undone easily. If not you will need to jam the flywheel and get a breaker bar on them.

regards

Dave