Getting an 80 up off its springs

[Chris]

Guys, soaked to the skin, covered in crap and thoroughly cheesed off. Some knowledge please if you will. I know we have chatted this through on different threads in the past but I'm not sure if it exists in one discrete place.

I have swapped the suspension on an 80 twice now and had bits go so easy it's a joke and other bits that have had me sprottling ( a Derbyshire word) about for hours. I have some spacers to fit to give me a bit more lift and I'm struggling like an amateur.

So, what is the best way to get an 80 to lift a leg and get the best droop to pull a spring out. I know this must sound ridiculous to you, having done it already, but I've just had the truck in the air with the rear wheels dangling in mid air and I couldn't even get the spring loose this time. Bought myself a 20t bottle jack and some monster stands today so that I can do this safely. I have found the trick with a small jack between the axle and chassis works well. But not today.

Any tips appreciated. Where to jack, which bit to raise, which side etc. The 80 moves in mysterious ways when you lift it up and I still haven't quite cottoned on. There's clearly a knack which I have stumbled across in the past. But today? Grrrrrr!

Tired Chris

 

[Paul]

Disconnect anti roll bars?
On my 80 it let the axle drop quite a bit more when putting springs in.

 

[Chris]

Yes, Paul, did that - but it's where and how to jack that has me bemused. Gone and stripped the bolts in the plate that holds the ARB into the wheel arch. Doh. Out with the welder methinks. Bzzz Bzzz - fixed.


Chris

 

[joe lane]

hi chris, are you using spring compressors ?

 

[Bat21]

hi chris, are you using spring compressors ?

That's what I did when I took my 3" spacers out

Just fit them to one spring, remove shock, jack up, remove spacer, let it back down, then repeat procedure for other side.... but do yours in reverse

 

[Chris]

No, not using compressors. As I said, I've done this twice already and never had to resort to compressors. I don't actually like working under a vehicle like that if I'm honest and I hate spring compressors even more. I guess that are big soft springs and probably compress fairly easily, but I know you don't need them. I'm really after the "sweet spots" for jacking etc. Raising an 80 is like making love to a beautiful woman, it's just knowing where to apply the right pressure. Cough. If you'll forgive the reference.

I can't remember how I did it, but it's something daft like jacking the front off side to get to the rear nearside. Know what I mean?

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

shocks disconnected, handbrake off?

 

[Chris]

Handbrake!

Hmm, you know Jon, I never thought of that. Don't think it was jagged up tight though. Being a flat drive and an auto. But worth remembering for next weekend.

Really wasn't a sensible thing to try in today's weather. I was battling so many factors. Oil, rain, metal etc. And a tarmac drive disintegrating before my eyes.

Need a clear head when doing this.


Chris

 

[Bat21]

No, not using compressors. As I said, I've done this twice already and never had to resort to compressors. I don't actually like working under a vehicle like that if I'm honest and I hate spring compressors even more.

I don't mean compress the springs, I just mean stop them extending as the axle drops.

This is how I did mine... I think

1. Place spring compressors on spring and tighten enough so they don't fall off[/*:m:2680wmqx]
2. Remove shock & ARB[/*:m:2680wmqx]
3. Jack car with bottle jack under axle[/*:m:2680wmqx]
4. Place axle stand under chassis[/*:m:2680wmqx]
5. Lower bottle jack to allow axle to drop away from spring[/*:m:2680wmqx]
6. Remove spring[/*:m:2680wmqx]
7. Place in spacer.[/*:m:2680wmqx]
8. Refit spring[/*:m:2680wmqx]

Job done

Having said that, if you have done it another way just ignore the above

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

With the ARB and shock disconnected you should just need to jack it under the chassis till the tyre is clear of the ground and then the spring should have lots of space above it? That's all I've ever done with mine. Did you loosen the control arm bolts (upper,lower, panhard) while you fitted the lift? Gives you a little less flex resistance.

 

[Bat21]

With the ARB and shock disconnected you should just need to jack it under the chassis till the tyre is clear of the ground and then the spring should have lots of space above it? That's all I've ever done with mine. Did you loosen the control arm bolts (upper,lower, panhard) while you fitted the lift? Gives you a little less flex resistance.

I was only using a bottle jack at the time so it wouldn't have had enough lift to jack under the chassis... the suspension travel was greater than the bottle travell.

I didn't need to loosen the control arms when removing my spacers, I did have a 6" but now a more sensible 3" lift

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Loosening the arms is so the bush's in the arms can settle to their new default position rather than being always twisted. Just means they should last longer and flex a bit better

EDIT: I don't use a bottle jack

reach in and take the spring out

 

[Chris]

Paul - genius. Sorry I didn't get that with the spring compressors. Put them on before raising. Now that I do like. I may give that a bash. OK thinking much more clearly today.

Chris

 

[Chris]

And before you could say Holy Bat21 tips, Robin. The job was done. OK not without sweat, tribulations a few 'oops' and the odd *$£@^!, but it's done nonetheless.

Great tip with the compressors, sorry to be so slow. Incidentally I STILL have those instruments of torture with a passion.

Jack one side of the axle as high as you can
Remove wheel
Lock spring with compressor
Remove ARB plate in arch and bottom mount on strut (neither necessary on the front)
Prop chassis
Lower axle
Use bottle jack if necessary to push axle down a bit more (might have to if inserting spacers)
Swap spring out
Raise axle to seat and loosen spring compressors
Remove chassis chock
Replace wheel
Lower to the ground

Sounds easy but I'm glad I'm a big chap with a garage full of useful tools!!


Thanks Guys. OK it's borderline need for castor correction now though. It's OK I think, hard to tell with the Mickey Mouse tyres on!

Got the 30mm spacers from Oz. About £87 delivered IIRC. One well known parts dealer wanted £90 plus vat plus delivery. So OK the postage from Oz kills a lot of the benefit but they came in a week and are very high quality.

Chris

The end

 

[Bat21]

Well done Chris

So what's your total lift now? When mine was +6" it used to 'steer' left under hard acceleration and 'steer' right under hard breaking... and that was with adjustable panhards and drop boxes on the rear of the front control arms

Now she's at a much more sensible +3" and drives perfectly.

 

[Chris]

Hard to say mate. I did the Ironman thing which was supposed to be 40mm I think than then some 30mm spacers which are guaranteed to give 30mm
But with springs that have settled a bit. I'll stick a pic up in a mo and you'll be able to see. It's definitely taller. Going to be somewhere around / just under 3" I suppose.

Chris

 

[Chris]

Ignore the damage. That should perhaps be Damn-age!

C

 

[Red Oktober]

Looks great Chris .... do the front tyres catch at all .. they look quite close the the body