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Head Swap Pics

DaveWall

Active Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
88
Have now swapped to an AMC Head which seemed to be beautifully machined....

Apologies for picture quality - I took loads if anyone wants more of anything in particular... Also note - apart from slightly smokey startup and the truck drinking a bit of water, it was running and sounding fine!


Hope this works........


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Before we started

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Removing Bits

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More Bits off

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Head Removed

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Cracked and pitted head

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Again

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Another Crack

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New Head being built up

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More new head

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Head exhaust side

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New head - face/valve side

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New Head + Inlet Manifold

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Lower Inlet Side

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New Head front ish

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EGR Blank - Inlet Manifold

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EGR Blank - Exhaust Side (Also the blanking plug that Bob Reminded me to swap!! Thanks Bob!!)

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Getting Head ready to go back on

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More Cleaning up

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Head Gasket test location

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Head Gasket in place

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New Head sitting on gasket

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New Head sitting on gasket


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Cam Belt re-installed

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New Bits



Will Get the rest uploaded when I have more time - I'm sure that's enough to bore most people to sleep!!


:)

Dave
 

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Never boring, its always good to have some pictures to reference to when you have to do the job yourself. :thumbup:


Joe
 
Hi Dave,

The removed head looks pretty knackered, and yet still drivable?

I have seen removed heads which look in better condition than your old one, and yet just about undrivable.

The job is certainly well documented, and the pictures are a great bonus.

Gra.
 
Yeah, its strange - no water in the oil or anything, drove fine - was just a little smokey on startup, and was loosing a small amount of water.

I have to say it is smoother now, and handles low revs in higher gears (mine is a manual) nicer if that makes sense. but it did drive with good power still etc....

I'll get a couple more pics uploaded, what are the thoughts on completely removing the EGR like this??? can anyone forsee any future problems?

Dave
 
I think the topic of removing the egr, depends on if you see yourself as a "greenie" or if you see the tax that the government puts on the fuel price should in other ways we looking at the emissions.

In this climate of fuel prices, I would have no hesitation in disabling or removing the egr, if I could get 1 or 2 more mpg.

Gra.
 
Here are a couple pics of it all back together....

Also - I did find a small split in the rubber hose between the airbox cover and the plastic intake pipe - phoned toyota for a price and they wanted £64 for it (then asked if I would like the clips too) I checked they had the right bit.. so will have to find one on a breaker. Point to note though is that I haddn't noticed the split, it may or may not have been letting some air in but might be something to check as and when you service ur landcruiser.

I did also knock the pastic tube vacume hose mount off the turbo pressure sensor (mounted on the side of the inlet manifold) again asked Toyota how much a new one is and it was about £250 - easily fixed the old one with some araldite, seems stronger than before and works OK, but worth being a bit careful as the connection for the vacume pipe (the small plastic tube sticking out) is right in line with one of the inlet manifold bolts.



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and

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and

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Graham said:
I think the topic of removing the egr, depends on if you see yourself as a "greenie" or if you see the tax that the government puts on the fuel price should in other ways we looking at the emissions.

In this climate of fuel prices, I would have no hesitation in disabling or removing the egr, if I could get 1 or 2 more mpg.

Gra.


Agreed - I didn't actually remove it for BHP though, it was more a case of looking how black and sooty the inlet manifold was and thinking I dont want that type of crud being blown in the new head all the time....

I had previously just tried a blank in the vacume pipe for the EGR control valve but I'm not sure if it kept it 100% closed, and didn't really notice any difference, also MOT Tester said makes little to no difference to his emissions???

Dave
 
Apologies for a newbie (and mechanically incompetent) dumb question - on the old head you say there are two (at least) cracks - in the photos where are these (I told you I was an incompetent) so that I know what to look for?

Thanks

Adrian
 
Adrian, the cracks are only really visable once the Head is removed, not something you can spot from the engine bay...

Are you having any problems with yours (temp rising/using water/smokey starting - usual signs) if not I would just make sure the cooling system is in tip top condition - make sure your radiator and expansion tank are filled with genuine Toyota Red Coolant (flush and re-fill them if you dont know when it was last done).

Dave
 
Dave,

Mine has lost a lot of coolant and overheated badly - it is going in tomorrow (not to a Toyota dealer) to have the head off and tested - at the very least she will be getting a new gasket - if it needs a new head (the one she has is just over a year old) would you recommend the AMC head?

Adrian
 
I can't fault the AMC head at all - looks fantastic - the casting is very well made and machines - looks nicer casting than my orrigional Toyota item really. For the price difference I would say the AMC is going to be fine!

Also get the mechanic to check the viscous fan coupling - in my oppinion the week fan coupling is the reason we end up with cracked heads/gasket issues....


Dave
 
Just for comparison sake, this is what a 120 series head looks like (no cracks or damage to this one)


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.
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I guess the most notable changes is the twin cam, and 16 valve head.

I am pretty sure it won't fit as a replacement for the single cam, 8 valve heads, well, at least I don't think it will.

Gra.

Gra
 
Graham said:
Just for comparison sake, this is what a 120 series head looks like (no cracks or damage to this one)

What is the rev limit (red line) on the 3.0 litre D-4D motor :?: :?:

I was wondering why Toyota put a 16 valve twin-cam head on a turbo diesel :? .

The increased inlet tract area seems a bit pointless when there is a turbo pushing the air in and the rev limit on a diesel (caused by the slower injection & combustion process) is unlikely to lead to valve bounce, necessitating lighter valves.

I'm curious now.

Bob.
 
BobMurphy said:
Graham said:
Just for comparison sake, this is what a 120 series head looks like (no cracks or damage to this one)

What is the rev limit (red line) on the 3.0 litre D-4D motor :?: :?:

I was wondering why Toyota put a 16 valve twin-cam head on a turbo diesel :? .

The increased inlet tract area seems a bit pointless when there is a turbo pushing the air in and the rev limit on a diesel (caused by the slower injection & combustion process) is unlikely to lead to valve bounce, necessitating lighter valves.

I'm curious now.

Bob.

.
Hi Bob,

Can't remember now
4750 maybe?

I think the twin cam, 16 valve is to have more effective valve opening, sure the turbo does most of teh work, but bigger valve openings is also going to help.

May be the D4-d owners can put racey stripes on the side, and a sticker for "twin cam 16 V )


Gra.
 
When doing mine - I did have half a thought about buying a replacement head for the D4D instead of the correct one for mine, then reality hit, and I realised there was no way I had time to make it work.... But would be an interesting upgrade, I guess the fueling/injectors are too different being common rail on the D4D, if not I have a feeling it would be possible.

Dave
 
So you had a new head just over a year ago? Where did you get it from?

Should last more than a year.

Pete
 
Do you mean mine.... I've only just put a new AMC Head on - didn't change it before....???

Dave
 
Adrian North said:
Dave,

Mine has lost a lot of coolant and overheated badly - it is going in tomorrow (not to a Toyota dealer) to have the head off and tested - at the very least she will be getting a new gasket - if it needs a new head (the one she has is just over a year old) would you recommend the AMC head?

Adrian


I take it the comment refers to Adrians.

Joe
 
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