Help wanted to investigate some issues

teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Hello everyone and glad to be here on this forum.
Roughly one month ago I bought a '02 LC100 with the 1HD-FTE engine and there are some problems I would like to get help investigating. Obviously I will visit a specialist but first I would like to know your opinion on that.

So here they are:
1 - Windshield liquid is leaking just under the washer tank. Not sure where exactly is the leak coming from. Should be fairly easy to investigate on my own.
2 - There is an oil leak under the car
oil-leak-png.1733620.png

3 - In the first week the oil indicator on the dashboard turned on so I checked the oil level and it was under that minimum mark so I bought the same oil (5W40) and refilled with about 0.5L
4 - Around the same time the height control stopped working, it was working when I bought it but stopped working after about 1 week after purchase, no specific noise with the compressor though.
5 - Today when I tried to start it, the batteries were dead, not surprisingly thought as they looked really old and there were noticeable marks on the fill caps after being forcefully opened in the past. Batteries were not identical
- 12V 70Ah 640A
- 12V 95Ah 720A
and I am not sure for how long they've been used. So I bought 2 new identical 95Ah batteries and replaced them.
6 - When starting the card after batteries were changed there was a considerable cloud of smoke from the exhaust pipe. Now every time I start the engine, there is smoke at first but after a few seconds it disappears, although not completely.
screen-shot-2018-06-30-at-5-39-12-pm-png.1733628.png

7 - The engine runs at ~ 1200 RPM and sounds like it's pushing hard a little bit, no AC or other things are running and it doesn't get lower after time.
8 - Engine coolant is at the LOW mark and looks reddish in color
2018-06-30-17-44-03-jpg.1733633.jpg

9 - There is a loud noise on the power steering pump when starting the car and when turning the steering wheel.

Yeah, I know it sounds a lot and most of you would probably jump on giving advices like I shouldn't have bought it in the first place but it is the way it is and I know that this car is a legend and this legend needs help. And that's an opportunity to get involved in the heart of this car, not just driving it.

So please share your thoughts, I'm interested in learning this car from ground up so I can fully rely on it when out on a long forest trip.

Many thanks!
 
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StarCruiser

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Oct 7, 2014
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Hi Teckays and welcome.
You do seem to have a few problems there.

  1. This could be anything from a leaky pipe to an overfill reservoir
  2. What oil is it? Touch and sniff.
  3. Monitor the height of the oil and see if it consumes any (see below)
  4. One for others.
  5. Test your charging voltage with a multimeter. Should be 14.4v or close to it just after starting.
  6. This could be related to 2 or could be that your injectors need servicing. Some more diagnosis needed along with 3.
  7. Does it have a hand throttle like the 80 series? If so check it is not pulled out. 1200 is too high.
  8. Is there any service history? This could well be Toyota Red coolant which is superb stuff. Top up with Toyota red and monitor or simply monitor. Some engines, mine included run at just below the neck of the filler and don’t move.
  9. Check the power steering fluid for level and whether it smells burned. Does the steering feel notchy? Top up if necessary and check around the power steering pump for leaks (see 2).
Report back.

You’ve come to the right place for help and advice.
Good to have you aboard.

Good luck with the above. When I say monitor, I mean check daily and record with measurements if you can so you can see what’s occurring.

One thing to do is take off the air inlet at the turbo and with the engine stopped, check for any movement in the turbo shaft. Also check for pressure just after starting in the radiator. Release the cap, put it back, wait a few seconds then repeat. Listen for pressure release as you take off the cap.

Best wishes
Rich
 

BobMurphy

Well-Known Member
I am in scotland
Mar 1, 2010
1,623
630
113
Kirkliston, Scotland
Hi, and welcome.

First - what is the mileage on your car, this will give us a clue as to what might be worn ??

1. The windscreen washer bottle sits behind the L/H headlight. There are three pumps that are plugged into the tank with rubber seals, similarly, the filler pipe plugs into the top of the tank and also has a rubber seal. One of these may be leaking.
The output hose for the headlight washers (low down at the front) will drain without the pump running and has two restrictor valves in the circuit to prevent this. any of this could be perished.
The tank itself is quite sturdy but can be cracked if it has received a knock (I know :doh:).

2. I'm afraid these engines suffer from leaking sumps (I'm having to replace mine). I would start by removing the plastic under-trays and checking this.

3. This sounds like normal loss from a leak. The sump holds 12 litres but its worth checking the oil level regularly.

4. If your car is anything like mine the inside of the AHC fluid tank is quite dirty. I was convinced that I had filled it to the correct mark (with genuine Toyota AHC Fluid) but I hadn't. filling it properly allowed it to work.

There are three height sensors - one on each side of the (independent) front suspension, attached to the inner wing with an arm connected to the upper suspension wishbone and a single one at the rear mounted on the underside of the body with an arm connected to the solid rear axle. Any one of these can fail with age and may be the cause of the problem.

5. Old, dissimilar batteries can drain quickly and you have done the right thing by replacing them with a matched pair. Now check the alternator output with a digital voltmeter (I have some cheap plug-in ones that go into the power/lighter socket. They give a more accurate reading than the voltmeter in the dashboard). I had to fit a new 120A Alternator last year - not the easiest of jobs.

6. Smoke on start-up can have a variety of causes. These motors don't have "Heater Plugs" but do have a heater matrix in the inlet air ducting between the Intercooler and the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) Valve. I can't believe it is cold enough for that to activate at this time of year so check the EGR valve in case its stuck open.

Depending on the mileage the inlet pipework and inlet ports may be blocked with carbon from the EGR Valve, that wouldn't help.

As said, the Injectors may need refurbishing.

An engine breather comes out of the Cam Box and leads into the inlet trunking. Undo this before a cold start and see what, if anything, is being pumped out.

7. That RPM is too high. Its a 'fly by wire' system so your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) may need to be re-calibrated. I would get a Toyota-Specific Digital Analyser and see what Error Codes are being thrown up. These are quite cheap on e-Bay (Toyota don't use the usual 'OBD2' system, having their own 'DOBD' set-up).

8. Make sure that the radiator is full and that the overflow bottle has fluid up to the 'LOW' mark when cold. The Radiator Cap has a two-way valve that allows the fluid to be pushed out into the overflow/header tank when hot and then sucks it back when it cools. Check all pipework for leaks and check that its not dripping anywhere. Use only 'Toyota Red' (or, if you're feeling flush, use 'Toyota Pink') coolant.

Excess pressure in the radiator is Bad News - but these motors are not known for head problems.

9. I would flush out the Power Steering system and re-fill with good quality ATF. If the noise is still there it sounds like problems with valves in the Power Steering Rack (but I'm no expert).

Keep us informed of what you find and post some pictures, at the moment its all guesswork :icon-wink:.

Bob.
 

uHu

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I am in norway
Mar 7, 2010
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83
Oslo, Norway
Toyota don't use the usual 'OBD2' system, having their own 'DOBD' set-up)
Just helping out with the spello here Bob - That should have said 'their own M-OBD protocol'.
But same type of plug as obd2, under the steering wheel (above the pedals) somewhere.
 
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teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Hi Teckays and welcome.
You do seem to have a few problems there.

  1. This could be anything from a leaky pipe to an overfill reservoir
  2. What oil is it? Touch and sniff.
  3. Monitor the height of the oil and see if it consumes any (see below)
  4. One for others.
  5. Test your charging voltage with a multimeter. Should be 14.4v or close to it just after starting.
  6. This could be related to 2 or could be that your injectors need servicing. Some more diagnosis needed along with 3.
  7. Does it have a hand throttle like the 80 series? If so check it is not pulled out. 1200 is too high.
  8. Is there any service history? This could well be Toyota Red coolant which is superb stuff. Top up with Toyota red and monitor or simply monitor. Some engines, mine included run at just below the neck of the filler and don’t move.
  9. Check the power steering fluid for level and whether it smells burned. Does the steering feel notchy? Top up if necessary and check around the power steering pump for leaks (see 2).
Report back.

You’ve come to the right place for help and advice.
Good to have you aboard.

Good luck with the above. When I say monitor, I mean check daily and record with measurements if you can so you can see what’s occurring.

One thing to do is take off the air inlet at the turbo and with the engine stopped, check for any movement in the turbo shaft. Also check for pressure just after starting in the radiator. Release the cap, put it back, wait a few seconds then repeat. Listen for pressure release as you take off the cap.

Best wishes
Rich
Hey and sorry for the delay, finally got a chance to get under the car and inspect it
1. I will leave this one on my todo list until I fix what's more important, but thank you for the input, appreciate.
2. So I sniffed the leaking oil and also the engine oil cap and to me they smell different. Engine oil cap smells more like "burned", similar to the smell out of the exhaust, obviously. The one leaking underneath has a more pleasant odor, not exactly sure what to compare it with.
3. It does consume some oil, but I presume that's because of it being burnt instead.
4. So I re-checked the height control buttons the other day and it worked.
5. I have scheduled an electrics inspection. Came together with the new batteries I bought. Will provide further information.
6. Smoke at startup disappeared. but there is still an oil burn odor behind the car.
7. No throttle, but the issue is fixed for now. I had the Central Diff Lock on (well, kids ), turned it off and now RPM is at ~800
8. Couldn't find any records related to the coolant. Will keep investigating/asking.
9. Yet to investigate the steering system. Will keep you posted.
 

teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Hi, and welcome.

First - what is the mileage on your car, this will give us a clue as to what might be worn ??

1. The windscreen washer bottle sits behind the L/H headlight. There are three pumps that are plugged into the tank with rubber seals, similarly, the filler pipe plugs into the top of the tank and also has a rubber seal. One of these may be leaking.
The output hose for the headlight washers (low down at the front) will drain without the pump running and has two restrictor valves in the circuit to prevent this. any of this could be perished.
The tank itself is quite sturdy but can be cracked if it has received a knock (I know :doh:).

2. I'm afraid these engines suffer from leaking sumps (I'm having to replace mine). I would start by removing the plastic under-trays and checking this.

3. This sounds like normal loss from a leak. The sump holds 12 litres but its worth checking the oil level regularly.

4. If your car is anything like mine the inside of the AHC fluid tank is quite dirty. I was convinced that I had filled it to the correct mark (with genuine Toyota AHC Fluid) but I hadn't. filling it properly allowed it to work.

There are three height sensors - one on each side of the (independent) front suspension, attached to the inner wing with an arm connected to the upper suspension wishbone and a single one at the rear mounted on the underside of the body with an arm connected to the solid rear axle. Any one of these can fail with age and may be the cause of the problem.

5. Old, dissimilar batteries can drain quickly and you have done the right thing by replacing them with a matched pair. Now check the alternator output with a digital voltmeter (I have some cheap plug-in ones that go into the power/lighter socket. They give a more accurate reading than the voltmeter in the dashboard). I had to fit a new 120A Alternator last year - not the easiest of jobs.

6. Smoke on start-up can have a variety of causes. These motors don't have "Heater Plugs" but do have a heater matrix in the inlet air ducting between the Intercooler and the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) Valve. I can't believe it is cold enough for that to activate at this time of year so check the EGR valve in case its stuck open.

Depending on the mileage the inlet pipework and inlet ports may be blocked with carbon from the EGR Valve, that wouldn't help.

As said, the Injectors may need refurbishing.

An engine breather comes out of the Cam Box and leads into the inlet trunking. Undo this before a cold start and see what, if anything, is being pumped out.

7. That RPM is too high. Its a 'fly by wire' system so your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) may need to be re-calibrated. I would get a Toyota-Specific Digital Analyser and see what Error Codes are being thrown up. These are quite cheap on e-Bay (Toyota don't use the usual 'OBD2' system, having their own 'DOBD' set-up).

8. Make sure that the radiator is full and that the overflow bottle has fluid up to the 'LOW' mark when cold. The Radiator Cap has a two-way valve that allows the fluid to be pushed out into the overflow/header tank when hot and then sucks it back when it cools. Check all pipework for leaks and check that its not dripping anywhere. Use only 'Toyota Red' (or, if you're feeling flush, use 'Toyota Pink') coolant.

Excess pressure in the radiator is Bad News - but these motors are not known for head problems.

9. I would flush out the Power Steering system and re-fill with good quality ATF. If the noise is still there it sounds like problems with valves in the Power Steering Rack (but I'm no expert).

Keep us informed of what you find and post some pictures, at the moment its all guesswork :icon-wink:.

Bob.
Hey bob and many thanks for such an informative reply.

Mileage is ~165 000. Not sure if it was changed, that's an usual practice in the country I live (yeah, everybody lies). The previous owner said that the mileage is original. This car was used 2 of the previous 3 owners as a second car, hence the low mileage (I tend to believe). The problem the was that the first owner didn't really care about it and used poor quality (locomotive) diesel (he was way too rich to care).

I'll do my best to go over all these points and inspect all the details provided. I will take photos of everything I do and post back.

Thank you, again!
 

teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Just helping out with the spello here Bob - That should have said 'their own M-OBD protocol'.
But same type of plug as obd2, under the steering wheel (above the pedals) somewhere.
I've noticed 2 connectors, one under the steering wheel and another one next to the engine air filter. Are they the same?
 

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
93
I've noticed 2 connectors, one under the steering wheel and another one next to the engine air filter. Are they the same?
Hey and sorry for the delay, finally got a chance to get under the car and inspect it
1. I will leave this one on my todo list until I fix what's more important, but thank you for the input, appreciate.
2. So I sniffed the leaking oil and also the engine oil cap and to me they smell different. Engine oil cap smells more like "burned", similar to the smell out of the exhaust, obviously. The one leaking underneath has a more pleasant odor, not exactly sure what to compare it with.
3. It does consume some oil, but I presume that's because of it being burnt instead.
4. So I re-checked the height control buttons the other day and it worked.
5. I have scheduled an electrics inspection. Came together with the new batteries I bought. Will provide further information.
6. Smoke at startup disappeared. but there is still an oil burn odor behind the car.
7. No throttle, but the issue is fixed for now. I had the Central Diff Lock on (well, kids ), turned it off and now RPM is at ~800
8. Couldn't find any records related to the coolant. Will keep investigating/asking.
9. Yet to investigate the steering system. Will keep you posted.
Looking at the pic with the arrow pointing to a pipe going to a sump, if that is the the leak it is the Auto trans box sump , I have never worked on one on a 100 landcruiser but it looks very much like a Lexus V8 auto sump , the pipe looks to me like the the dip stick tube , check if the leak is coming from above and running down the pipe or the sump its self were the pipe joins my guess its coming from above . now its very important not to over fill the auto box , pull the dip stick out and look when the car is on a level surface when cold and look on the dip stick on the cold marks and not the hot marks if it needs topping up use only toyota ws or toyota type 1v only depending what oil it needs check your hand book or ask any one who knows like your dealer . if it was over filled get it sorted check the dip stick is pushed in fully if not it could be allowing atf oil up the tube and running down to drip at the bend at the sump , very important to keep every thing internally free from contamination , good luck .
 

uHu

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Supporter
I am in norway
Mar 7, 2010
2,099
451
83
Oslo, Norway
I've noticed 2 connectors, one under the steering wheel and another one next to the engine air filter. Are they the same?
They are nearly the same, but the signal you need for TechStream or another code reader is only in the OBD type plug under the steering wheel.

Looking at the pic with the arrow pointing to a pipe going to a sump, if that is the the leak it is the Auto trans box sump , I have never worked on one on a 100 landcruiser but it looks very much like a Lexus V8 auto sump , the pipe looks to me like the the dip stick tube , check if the leak is coming from above and running down the pipe or the sump its self were the pipe joins my guess its coming from above . now its very important not to over fill the auto box , pull the dip stick out and look when the car is on a level surface when cold and look on the dip stick on the cold marks and not the hot marks if it needs topping up use only toyota ws or toyota type 1v only depending what oil it needs check your hand book or ask any one who knows like your dealer . if it was over filled get it sorted check the dip stick is pushed in fully if not it could be allowing atf oil up the tube and running down to drip at the bend at the sump , very important to keep every thing internally free from contamination , good luck .
Yes, looks like the dip stick pipe. I guess this is a 4-speed box then. The ATF level is best checked at operating temperature, and with the engine running. Cold level (still with engine running) is less accurate, as "cold" is an unknown value, while "operating temp" is more stable. If it is a 4-speed box, the the ATF is Dexron III (pref. a synthetic version). The WS or IV ATF are only for 5-sp boxes, and a 5-sp with dipstick would be Toyota-IV.
 

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
93
They are nearly the same, but the signal you need for TechStream or another code reader is only in the OBD type plug under the steering wheel.


Yes, looks like the dip stick pipe. I guess this is a 4-speed box then. The ATF level is best checked at operating temperature, and with the engine running. Cold level (still with engine running) is less accurate, as "cold" is an unknown value, while "operating temp" is more stable. If it is a 4-speed box, the the ATF is Dexron III (pref. a synthetic version). The WS or IV ATF are only for 5-sp boxes, and a 5-sp with dipstick would be Toyota-IV.
Hi a 4-sp Lexus V8 I had spec for ATF was T-IV , the reason I check the cold marks on the dip stick is the oil is settled and to add atf if needed is at the same temp as the sump so less chance of over filling as both atf at same temp and not expanded as atf at running temp rises , so adding cold ATF to the hot mark can overfill as the new cool added ATF warms up later rises over the full mark to end up over filled . When running temp is reached then I check the hot marks to see if at the right level ,That is for moderate climate and not ice cold temps .start engine and go through all gears first I should of stated that at the beginning but it was so long ago since I had an old 4 speed auto I forgot .
 
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uHu

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I am in norway
Mar 7, 2010
2,099
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Oslo, Norway
...the reason I check the cold marks on the dip stick is the oil is settled and to add atf if needed is at the same temp as the sump so less chance of over filling as both atf at same temp and not expanded as atf at running temp rises , ....
ATF level is always checked with the engine running, not when settled. Cold mark is for when the engine is just started and has not been running for hours. Level is higher if you check with the engine stopped, and you end up with too little ATF in the box if you use that as a guide.
 
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TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
93
ATF level is always checked with the engine running, not when settled. Cold mark is for when the engine is just started and has not been running for hours. Level is higher if you check with the engine stopped, and you end up with too little ATF in the box if you use that as a guide.
I ment cold when engine is running and going through the gears first , I forgot to state it at the beginning and said it at the end of my post sorry for that ,
 
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uHu

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I am in norway
Mar 7, 2010
2,099
451
83
Oslo, Norway
That's OK. Only my OCD kickin in - Only happens when there is someone I feel I can "correct" ... :blush:
 

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
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Hi uHu
I am not a professional car mechanic , I am what you call a backyarder , I have been fixing and servicing mine and my offspring and friends and neighbours cars (for free) for 40 years , I should have put my advice down better, its harder to wright it down (advice) than say it in person to some one but you are very right in correcting me . OCD is good in these circumstances .
Kind Regards
Tony
 

teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Good day to you all!

Finally had a chance to do some more observations regarding the full range of issues described above:

2 - There is an oil leak under the car
View attachment 146484
I've checked where the leak is coming from and it looks like the leak is coming from where the SUB-ASSY TUBE and PAN connects (O-RING maybe).
View attachment 146480
Even though the tube is a little dirty above the join point, it doesn't seem like it's coming from there, it looks more like the oil traveled both directions starting at the join.

Spotted another leak:
View attachment 146481
The tube enters the power steering tank from below:
View attachment 146482

Here is the full engine bay picture, just for fun:
View attachment 146483

On the property I live, it's very difficult to monitor oil/fluid levels. There is no one single flat spot :( Therefore it was impossible to me at this stage to properly watching the levels.

I bought new oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter. All genuine except oil filter (MANN). I thought of waiting until all the leaking problems are fixed before changing it. Now that the leaks are less related to loosing engine oil (in my opinion), would you guys recommend changing the engine oil + filters before I fix everything else?

Thank you all and see you next time.
 
Last edited:

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
93
Good day to you all!

Finally had a chance to do some more observations regarding the full range of issues described above:


I've checked where the leak is coming from and it looks like the leak is coming from where the SUB-ASSY TUBE and PAN connects (O-RING maybe).
View attachment 146480
Even though the tube is a little dirty above the join point, it doesn't seem like it's coming from there, it looks more like the oil traveled both directions starting at the join.

Spotted another leak:
View attachment 146481
The tube enters the power steering tank from below:
View attachment 146482

Here is the full engine bay picture, just for fun:
View attachment 146483

On the property I live, it's very difficult to monitor oil/fluid levels. There is no one single flat spot :( Therefore it was impossible to me at this stage to properly watching the levels.

I bought new oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter. All genuine except oil filter (MANN). I thought of waiting until all the leaking problems are fixed before changing it. Now that the leaks are less related to loosing engine oil (in my opinion), would you guys recommend changing the engine oil + filters before I fix everything else?

Thank you all and see you next time.
If the engine oil looks dark on the dip stick I would change the oil and filter now for peace of mind , and in a couple of months I would change it again to get rid of all the old built up crap of neglection , but this time I would use genuine toyota oil filter , and a fully synthetic engine oil , a grade that is stated for your car 5w- 30 or 5w-40 using cheap non fully synthetic oil don't do your car any favors in the long term . If you love your car give it the best treatment .
 
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teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
If the engine oil looks dark on the dip stick I would change the oil and filter now for peace of mind , and in a couple of months I would change it again to get rid of all the old built up crap of neglection , but this time I would use genuine toyota oil filter , and a fully synthetic engine oil , a grade that is stated for your car 5w- 30 or 5w-40 using cheap non fully synthetic oil don't do your car any favors in the long term . If you love your car give it the best treatment .
I agree with what you said, that's why I bought 3 x 5L genuine Toyota 5W-30
2018-07-08 13.59.28.jpg

Now, would you recommend buying another brand's 5W-30 oil and change it now with the MANN oil filter to clean up the engine? Then in a few months buy genuine Toyota oil filter and change it again together with the genuine Toyota oil?

Thank you.
 

uHu

Well-Known Member
Supporter
I am in norway
Mar 7, 2010
2,099
451
83
Oslo, Norway
Afaik, the oil filter is the one maintenance part where the difference between OEM and pattern part is the biggest. There have been numerous test and dissections of various oil filters, all of them concluding that there are no filters as good as the original, with the same quality of both the full-flow element and the by-pass element, and with a by-pass valve in addition to the check valve. Some even have only one filtering element, iirc.

Edit: Just checked a thread on LCOOL, where they found that a filter sold cheaply as genuine, actually contains only one very flimsy single layer of paper filter and a check valve, nothing else. Stole a pic from there:
Ebayoilfilter.jpg

Here is the real thing:
90915-30002-8T-filter_IMG_4615s.jpg
 
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teckays

New Member
I am in moldova
Jun 30, 2018
7
1
3
Afaik, the oil filter is the one maintenance part where the difference between OEM and pattern part is the biggest. There have been numerous test and dissections of various oil filters, all of them concluding that there are no filters as good as the original, with the same quality of both the full-flow element and the by-pass element, and with a by-pass valve in addition to the check valve. Some even have only one filtering element, iirc.
Here where I live these filters need to be custom ordered and it takes 21 days to arrive. Seems like not too many car owners use genuine parts anymore. I could order a genuine filter now and change it in a few months after the engine is cleaned up.
 

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
733
726
93
I agree with what you said, that's why I bought 3 x 5L genuine Toyota 5W-30
View attachment 146485

Now, would you recommend buying another brand's 5W-30 oil and change it now with the MANN oil filter to clean up the engine? Then in a few months buy genuine Toyota oil filter and change it again together with the genuine Toyota oil?

Thank you.
I am not 100% sure but I think the oil in the pic is only semi synthetic oil have a look on the back it should say , semi syn oil is only 50% syn at the most some even less , Toyota dont make oil they buy it in, symi syn oil passes the criteria of engine needs but in no way is as good as fully syn oil , it will weaken in its job way before fully syn oil and in no way will take the high temps like for cooling turbo that has worked hard on a long high speed run or towing heavy loads for long runs like fully syn oil can as it ages, or high force pressure that fully syn oil will take hence the price difference , but its not all bad news fully syn oil can be had cheaper at big auto stores or Costco if they have them where you are , and when on sale much cheaper than toyota semi syn oil , If it was me I would look at the back of the toyota oil and if it is semi syn oil use it first with the mann filter , then get some fully synthetic 5w-30 oil and a genuine toyota oil filter and change it in two months . Fully synthetic oil always clearly states so at the front face of the oil container as it is premium oil the makers dont want to hide it . find out how much oil your car needs and buy what you need .
 
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