JB's gear oil

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Hey JB,
If its going into the axles make sure its not straight 80/90 but also rated
as 'hypoy'. The straight stuff is OK for manual gearboxes and transfer
cases but not axles. (Hypoy describes an oil suitable for the geometric
hypoidal angle of approach of the pinion relative to the crownwheel.
Even EP or 'extreme pressure' rating will not be sufficient for a diff). OK ?
Best
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia - where I get cheap French supermarket
hypoy made by Elf
 
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Jon Wrote
Hey JB,
Jon could you say all that stuffin english please. I have suspended my axle
drain today, one because of the weather raining again and I have no garage
and the cruiser is out in the open. The other is because of some confusion
in me head about having the right oil for me diffs. I have 20 litres of 80 w
90 on my hands well actually in 4, 5 litre containers. Its castrol EPX 80w
90 Differential oil SAE, 80W-90, API, GLS, ZF, TE-ML, 05A, 07A, 12A, 16B,
17B.I cant even get al oil and for it to be straight forward. Im doing off
to cry now.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
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Hey Jon
Just had a look in my handbook , yes I can read every now and again. It says
they recommend SAE 90 if above -18 c degrees and below -18 they say SAE 80
or 80W- 90. So what am I doing wrong.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
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Hey Jon
Your right again, I went to Toyota this morning just to check it all out. He
looked it up and then was kind enough to give me the specs on stuff like oil
etc. The oil I have is a good oil and has the API, GL-5 rating on it as it
says it should have in the handbook but it does not say hypoid. In the hand
book the oil I have is for colder temps so is a little thinner than the SAE
90 but the specs are the same. I asked Toyota if he had the SAE 90. He
haden't even got it listed on his books and told me that the 75W 90 will do.
So no I have another oil in my head the 75W90 as well as the others, geese
it enough to drive one insane. I had a look at the Difflock shop and they do
the SAE 90 but thats the UK. Thinking time again, If the 80W 90 would do and
would be better than whats in there at the moment with the contamination
fron the grease etc and then lay my hands on the API 90. Some times I think
how easy it was with the Camry I had all those years ago.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
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Hi guys
I had a go at the diff today after all the advice on the oil to suit. But
guess what I could not open the two drain nuts on the axles. I really felt
like screaming but being the composed type diden't. I could get the refill
for the front axle open and I think that was only because it was oprned
last weekend. I know Mik its only a week and not long enough to get me out
of your mind. So in my wisdom I said to myself that I will not be beaten at
this so I pumped oil into the front diff and my god you would not believe
how black the gunk was that came out. Si I pumped more in and more black
stuff came out. I did this for a while and at least I deluted the crap that
was in there with some good oil. The next thing is to get someone to loosen
the drain nuts. No im not a wimp as least I think im not but putting
pressure on the hands and arms to turn the nuts puts pressure on me back
which still seems knackered. I can't wait to see the real gunk that comes
out when the drain nuts are opened.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
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Laws

Hi Guys
I am seriously thinking about a little trip to the UK soon to stack up on a
load of parts, oils and basically anything that I can fit into the cruiser.
Irish ferries are doing an offer of half price sailings to the UK So Im
going to compile a list and see what I can cram in the cruiser. The offer
brings me into Pembroke so I will be looking for any thing that I can take
back with me. Im going to try MIlner, Difflock just to think of a few. I am
looking for steel wheels and off road tyres, but they seem to be pricy so it
might take a while. If any of you have any ideas please tell me. Im also
going to look into Amsoil cause I can't get it here and a roof rack might
help with the stuff, im sure I will think of other things aswell. Whet is
the legal age a kit can sit in the front in the UK, Because im thinking of
leaving the wife behind and taking the klittle fella who is nine , so that
way I have more room in the cack with the seats down.
Thanks
JOhn C
92HDJ 1HDT Ireland
 
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JB Wrote...
Jon could you say all that stuffin english please. SNIP...
==========Sorry JB I only know Serbo Croat out here and have to get the wife to
translate for me ;o)
=================I have suspended my axle drain today, one because of the weather raining
again and I have no garage
and the cruiser is out in the open. The other is because of some confusion
in me head about having the right oil for me diffs. I have 20 litres of 80 w
90 on my hands well actually in 4, 5 litre containers. Its castrol EPX 80w
90 Differential oil SAE, 80W-90, API, GLS, ZF, TE-ML, 05A, 07A, 12A, 16B,
17B. SNIP..
============I admit I don't know the meaning of all the spec letters that come after
oil grades these days, but they usually refer to a testing standard,
(certainly SAE and ZF) and you have to see what they mean separately. I am
sure there are websites that will interpret all those for you, if nothing
else, those of the manufacturers. But it looks like your local Yaris dealer
has sufficient knowledge to know that hypoy is needed but can't identify
one, except of course one from the range that he sells, and he doesn't need
to know the tech spec of it. Personally I would not be bothered about the
viscosity of the oil 10 points either way. The fact its oil and it can
withstand extreme hypoid pressure is far more important. There is no point
having nice thick gooey stuff that squirts out from between crownwheel and
pinion teeth leaving nothing much to lubricate them at the pressure point.
Out here apart from the French stuff I have also bought Esso and Abro axle
oils, and in each case they have 'hypoy' written clearly in the spec. It
doesn't usually get covered-up (included within) by spec letters and
numbers which you then have to investigate separately. If it reads
'differential oil' on the label there should surely be a reference to
hypoid capability somewhere. Others may accuse me of being old fashioned,
but I have learned the hard way, and its in my basic engineering training
to get the basics right every time, like a carpenter measures twice before
cutting once !
========I cant even get al oil and for it to be straight forward. Im doing off
to cry now. SNIP..
Now now JB, don't cry so much it waters down the Guinness. Like anyone else
I am only trying to help. In the real world we don't all go down to the Toy
dealer and buy whatever he wants to sell us. That's why we mostly all have
second-hand Toys cos we can't afford them new, and can't always afford what
the dealer wants to sell either as genuine spares or 'recommended
lubricants' etc. And why the likes of Milner do so well serving the likes
of us.
I am sure in the past you have mentioned buying specialist engine oils from
a local supplier, and that is the sort of place to go. Specialist suppliers
(in UK anyway) would know their oils better than an auto accessory shop -
or even the car dealers. For example In UK I mostly buy Morris of
Shrewsbury products. A small firm but with a wide range of 'simple'
products described clearly and simply but for sophisticated applications
if required. But the same goes for specialists selling Castrol, Ovoline,
Valvoline, Fuchs, etc. which you have in Eire.
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia - where I am thinking of changing my
gearbox and transfer box oils before driving across Europe this week.
 
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Good point about the fill plug!
By the way if it's just a tight bolt I bought myself a huge breaker bar
for such occasions. For the uninitiated this is just a very long socket
wrench thing.
Ian.
Peter Browning wrote:
> John
>
>
> Get a blowtorch on the refil / drain nut housings to try and loosen
> them... BUT make sure you can get the refil plug out BEFORE you drain
> the oil!! It's a pig if you drain it and then find you can't get any
> oil back in! :)
>
>
> Pete
>
 
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