Hi, I hear a squeaking sound from the front axle, like when metal rubs against metal. It happens only when the passenger´s free wheel locking hub is locked(AWD not activated). When the hubs are unlocked there is no such sound, also if only driver´s hub locked, there is no sound either. If I activate AWD it works. Can a squeaking sound mean a worn hub? Thanks for any advise on this. KZJ73.
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KZJ73 front axle
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Tel Boy
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Presumably you have manual hubs. The squeaking sound would seem to indicate that something is rubbing and wearing. Maybe the hub just needs greasing. Best thing is to dismantle the passenger side hub and have a look. Here's a video
When you remove it from the car, first take off the outer cover and remove the circlip in the end of the splined shaft in the centre.
When you remove it from the car, first take off the outer cover and remove the circlip in the end of the splined shaft in the centre.
Thanks. Yes, I have manual ones. I will check it. I have never seen selling only inside components of a hub. I thought that when once broken, the whole hub must be replaced. The guy on the video sourced somewhere a gear. Do you have any idea where to get it from, in case I would need it?
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Tel Boy
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I suppose if you have very cold winters it might be better to use a thin synthetic grease like that bloke in the video used. That looked nice enough to have on toast. However, here in the UK I have used plain old lithium in mine for the last 40 years with no problems at all. If you go wading it might be good to use waterproof grease like in boat trailer hubs. It really isn't critical.
Thanks for your comments. When I heard that sound first time I lifted the wheel and spun it by hand, but I didn't hear anything. I will check all that carefully.
I would be lucky if it was only some stone. Hopefully it's not a differential. Worn diff would have some symptons when I locked only driver's hub , I guess.
I would be lucky if it was only some stone. Hopefully it's not a differential. Worn diff would have some symptons when I locked only driver's hub , I guess.
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You are over-worrying about this. Just get your sockets out and have a look. My number one suspect is the brakes, not the f/w hub, and definitely not the diff.
I have had to replace several diffs (in other 4x4s, not in Cruisers) and there is no way you could describe the noise a problem diff makes as a "squeaking, metal rubbing on metal". It's time to get that wheel off and get your head under there!
I have had to replace several diffs (in other 4x4s, not in Cruisers) and there is no way you could describe the noise a problem diff makes as a "squeaking, metal rubbing on metal". It's time to get that wheel off and get your head under there!
I removed the wheel and checked the area between the disc and the back plate but I didn´t find anything. I guess if there was something I´d hear that squeak all the time, not only when the hub locked. So I removed the cap from the hub but didn´t go further since I couldn´t find pliers to remove the circlip. Inside the hub there was not too much grease, but there was some, see attached. I haven´t noticed anything which would indicate some grooves or anything worn due to rubbing. So I will remove the whole hub, put there a new grease and hope.
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Tel Boy
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Nice photos. I don't think I have ever seen a hub so clean and perfectly greased. You can see the slide marks in the grease where the hub engages and disengages. Can't believe anything in there would be squeaking. I would be surprised if you find anything wrong, that looks like a well-maintained piece of kit in good condition. While you have the wheel off, just take out the brake pads and check them over, wire brush them clean and put them back in again. Is it still squeaking?
Then check your wheel bearings and king pin bearings. Put the wheel back on and while it is jacked up give it a wobble by pushing and pulling at top and bottom. Any movement? Get someone to push hard on the brake pedal and do it again. Or use a piece of wood between front seat and pedal and slide the seat forward. Is there less movement now, or the same? Or no movement in either case?
Then check your wheel bearings and king pin bearings. Put the wheel back on and while it is jacked up give it a wobble by pushing and pulling at top and bottom. Any movement? Get someone to push hard on the brake pedal and do it again. Or use a piece of wood between front seat and pedal and slide the seat forward. Is there less movement now, or the same? Or no movement in either case?
Yes, as you say, there is no problem with the hub, I diassembled it, cleaned and reassembled but no change. That sound still there, this time it was like squeaking with clattering. Only when the hub is locked. While reassembling I noticed some hard wear on the nut, see photo and made a short video with some axle up and down play. Is this normal?
I just came back from the test drive when I read your recent comment. I did what you say, the pads are ok, but there is a movement when I was wobbling the wheel. Difficult to judge how much, I would say 0,5-1cm. There was no change when pressing the brake. Then I checked driver's wheel, there is no movement.
I just came back from the test drive when I read your recent comment. I did what you say, the pads are ok, but there is a movement when I was wobbling the wheel. Difficult to judge how much, I would say 0,5-1cm. There was no change when pressing the brake. Then I checked driver's wheel, there is no movement.
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That's good news, Nice to confirm it.
Evidence of a bush mechanic at work there. Using a hammer and cold chisel instead of the caring owner's tender touch with a 54mm socket. I've done it myself, it's hard not to sometimes when you're in a hurry and have them in your hand to bend over the tab on the lock washer. It doesn't matter a great deal, either, only it's hard to get an accurate torque setting of 78Nm with a hammer until you've done it half a dozen times. Looks like it might be time for a new nut.
Pretty much the same as mine. It's movement is controlled and set in the right position by the circlip in the groove at the end of the drive shaft which was the second thing you removed. The position of the entire axle hub is controlled by the wheel bearings. ... Which brings us on to ...
And since it isn't there when the brakes are on it means your king pin bearings are fine but there is some slack in your wheel bearings. This may be the source of your noise. Clearance between the bulbous body of the CV joint and the opening into the knuckle cavity is quite small. If alignment is out it can touch and produce a nasty noise, but only when the f/w hub is engaged and the drive shaft is turning.
So the next step is to remove the front wheel bearings and see how bad the signs of wear are. You may not need new bearings, maybe only fresh grease and readjust to the correct torque.
Thanks, it starts to make a sense.
By "there was no change" I meant that there was the same kind of movement, so this means that the king pin bearings are worn as well?
The front wheel bearing is just behind the 54mm socket?
Do you know the correct torques? Don't you have the OEM numbers so that I could source the bearings? Too many questions but I'm happy that we can exclude a diff problem.
Thanks a lot for your help.
By "there was no change" I meant that there was the same kind of movement, so this means that the king pin bearings are worn as well?
The front wheel bearing is just behind the 54mm socket?
Do you know the correct torques? Don't you have the OEM numbers so that I could source the bearings? Too many questions but I'm happy that we can exclude a diff problem.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Tel Boy
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Sorry, Dalky. I think I have told you the wrong thing. When the brake is hard on it locks the disc (Hub) to the caliper (Knuckle) and does not allow any movement in the wheel bearings. So this points to the king pin bearings (swivel bearings) as being worn and not the wheel bearings at all. I got it the wrong way round before. Oops!
5 to 10mm of movement is a significant amount and definitely needs sorting out. Unfortunately this means there is more to pull off the front axle. It will still mean you have to remove the wheel bearings to get to the steering knuckle, so you can have a look at those anyway. Once you have removed the disc and hub you should find you still have movement up and down on the stub axle spindle, which will confirm the need for new bearings at top and bottom of the swivel housing.
5 to 10mm of movement is a significant amount and definitely needs sorting out. Unfortunately this means there is more to pull off the front axle. It will still mean you have to remove the wheel bearings to get to the steering knuckle, so you can have a look at those anyway. Once you have removed the disc and hub you should find you still have movement up and down on the stub axle spindle, which will confirm the need for new bearings at top and bottom of the swivel housing.
No problem. I appreciate your help.
I sourced this kit:
www.euro4x4parts.com
And another one which also contains some square washers. Do I need the square ones?
I sourced this kit:
Swivel - rebuild kit
OE: 0, Swivel - rebuild kit, With OE quality components (Koyo, Nashi, NTN, Timken or NSK bearings, AAMANDO or NOK seals and rings)
www.euro4x4parts.com
And another one which also contains some square washers. Do I need the square ones?
Front Swivel Seals & Bearing Kit For Toyota Landcruiser KZJ70/KZJ73 3.0TD 93-96 | eBay
Fits:Toyota Landcruiser KZJ70 3.0TD 05/1993-03/1996. Fits:Toyota Landcruiser KZJ73 3.0TD 05/1993-04/1996. COMPLETE FRONT HUB SWIVEL SEALS & BEARING KIT. Note:No Front Wheel Bearings Included.
www.ebay.co.uk
OK, there is another kit with the shims. I was confused because they say that it is for vehicles with auto hubs. Hopefully it will fit:
www.euro4x4parts.com
When you say "adjust the pre-load", you mean by a specific torque? Do you know how much? If you had some table with all the torques(brake calipers, axle..), I would appreciate that. Since I will have to disasseble quite lot of things, I´d sleep better if I could apply the correct torques everywhere.
Thanks.
edit: I just got an info from euro4x4 that this kit fits only vehicles with electric hubs. OK, at least I know that I need the shims.
Swivel - rebuild kit
OE: 0, Swivel - rebuild kit, With OE quality components (Koyo, Nashi, NTN, Timken or NSK bearings, AAMANDO or NOK seals and rings)
www.euro4x4parts.com
When you say "adjust the pre-load", you mean by a specific torque? Do you know how much? If you had some table with all the torques(brake calipers, axle..), I would appreciate that. Since I will have to disasseble quite lot of things, I´d sleep better if I could apply the correct torques everywhere.
Thanks.
edit: I just got an info from euro4x4 that this kit fits only vehicles with electric hubs. OK, at least I know that I need the shims.
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