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LC not starting

Just some pictures from yesterday 2016-08-23.jpg
2016-08-23.jpg
Looks pretty good
 
Can it breathe maybe the turbo is full of oil or something and fuel can't burn without air .

Maybe the throttle butterfly is jammed shut ?
 
Last edited:
Seems very unlikely it could be so starved of air it won't run at all but its 5 minutes work to have a look at the venturi butterfly which costs nothing to clean so i would rule it out just for the fun of it almost .
 
Doubt lack of air would cause any issues for these motors on start up. Plus you can give it some pedal on startup to open up the main butterfly valve. Not sure if you've done this, but have someone crank the engine over for say 5 seconds or so, and crack open the injector line going into one of the injector. If there's no fuel spraying out (under pressure) then the valve isn't opening as it should/is getting stuck somehow.

The valve will also not open if not enough pressure is generated internally inside the pump. This would be down to either a internal pump failure, or air in the system. However, it'll have to be a lot of air. I've had what I would say was a fair bit of air in the system when I had a rusty fuel line, and she'll still start up instantly. Would just be down on power on the motorway. Let us know how it goes with swapping over the valve.

By the way, when it originally stalled were there any other strange symptoms?
 
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Someone in New Zealand converts pumps for these trucks and a member on here was planning to go down that route but hasn't reported back yet .

It may not be relevant to this thread but i was interested to note Roughtrax now sell Denso spill control valve's for £134 .
 
You won't be disappointed going with the manual pump! Are there anymore cheap manual pumps floating around your end, I'm after one myself, but they're rare and people want mad money for them!

Changing the pump isn't too difficult. Disconnect all rear injector pipes, two of the ones to the front of the engine will need to be removed completely. Underneath the pump towards the back of the pump, and side of the block is a mounting bracket, two 12mm on the block side and one on the pump body. These need to removed along with the bracket. Two 12mm nuts on the front side of the pump. One is easy to get to. One is on the inside in between the pump and engine. A good side spanner works or a small ratchet. Theres piece sound deadening in this area which needs to be removed to gain access. I also pulled out the vacuum line for more room.

Now the front side of the engine. Remove the fan shroud cover, 4 x 10mm bolts on each corner. Bottom plastic piece just snaps out of place. Remove the timing belt cover (easy). Now you don't have to, but it's always best to align the engine TDC. Now, if you're lucky these next steps will be fairly easy. No need to remove the belt or anything. Undo the main pulley bolt on the pump, I think it's a 24mm. A big goldish nut. Don't undo it all the way out. Using a big hammer knock give the bolt a good thud and see if the pump moves back out of it's spline. It either will, or it wont' So if it doesn't move on to these next steps. You'll need to either make/or buy a puller/pusher to push the pump out of the spline. You will use to pulleys bolt holes to do so. I had to take my rad out to get some more space made for the tool.

Remember to put back the front oil seal on the pump shaft. Regarding the cable, you'll need to make that up yourself or source the bits.
 
Beau said:
You won't be disappointed going with the manual pump! Are there anymore cheap manual pumps floating around your end, I'm after one myself, but they're rare and people want mad money for them!

Changing the pump isn't too difficult. Disconnect all rear injector pipes, two of the ones to the front of the engine will need to be removed completely. Underneath the pump towards the back of the pump, and side of the block is a mounting bracket, two 12mm on the block side and one on the pump body. These need to removed along with the bracket. Two 12mm nuts on the front side of the pump. One is easy to get to. One is on the inside in between the pump and engine. A good side spanner works or a small ratchet. Theres piece sound deadening in this area which needs to be removed to gain access. I also pulled out the vacuum line for more room.

Now the front side of the engine. Remove the fan shroud cover, 4 x 10mm bolts on each corner. Bottom plastic piece just snaps out of place. Remove the timing belt cover (easy). Now you don't have to, but it's always best to align the engine TDC. Now, if you're lucky these next steps will be fairly easy. No need to remove the belt or anything. Undo the main pulley bolt on the pump, I think it's a 24mm. A big goldish nut. Don't undo it all the way out. Using a big hammer knock give the bolt a good thud and see if the pump moves back out of it's spline. It either will, or it wont' So if it doesn't move on to these next steps. You'll need to either make/or buy a puller/pusher to push the pump out of the spline. You will use to pulleys bolt holes to do so. I had to take my rad out to get some more space made for the tool.

Remember to put back the front oil seal on the pump shaft. Regarding the cable, you'll need to make that up yourself or source the bits.
Click to expand...
what is "mad money" for the manual pump Beau? is the 2lt the 2.5 four pot that was in the old Hilux ?
 
I thought the manual pump conversion relied on a hybrid of the 2LT and 1KZ pump hence you would need both pumps in good working order ?

These guys in NZ are said to be the experts at this conversion http://www.kaiapoirepowers.co.nz/

These trucks are getting old now so you never know they may be sympathetic to an email from someone on the other side of the planet seeking instructions .
 
goodoldboy said:
what is "mad money" for the manual pump Beau? is the 2lt the 2.5 four pot that was in the old Hilux ?
Click to expand...
I was thinking of the 2.4 2L motor Beau from the LN 65 hilux as I've got one hanging around.... and of course I was thinking of €€€€€€€!
 
The direct bolt on mechanical pump for the kz lump comes mainly from early generation Hiluxs, surfs, 4runners, hiaces, around the 1994-1996 year. This engine being the 3.0l 1KZT. By mad money, couple people want 350-400 for the pump alone and this is used condition of course.

The hybrid pumps are better because theirs a lot more 2lt and 2.4 mechanical pumps laying around that people can work with.

Those guys from NZ want around 800 pounds for there pump, plus shipping... But they do tune the pumps to increase fueling a lot, and they're designed to work with the turbo boosting 15psi+, plus accommodating mods to keep the engine safe (Exhaust/intercooler).

I would totally have gone down the mechanical route on my truck, but having an auto, apparently it's very difficult to get the box to shift like oem how it's supposed to, and that puts me off.
 
I paid £30 which is very cheap. Now I just have to get old pump out :) I'm nearly there but the pump is stuck of course. Get some new tool :)
 
Update: the new pump is in and the engine is running again. Got the accelerator bracket of a 1kz-t engine, but I had to order a throttle cable, so no test run so far.

Also sorted out the tacho wiring, but I need to find a source for the fuel cut solenoid. The butterfly valve is at the moment just ziptied, but it worked for now.

:)
 
Doesn't take long to remove the top intake piece, then unscrew the butterfly valve screws and remove it.
 
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