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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
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- Oct 13, 2010
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OK I've finally managed to make some time to update the thread. 
I'm now technically working the least amount of hours I've ever done, work wise. But then factor in gym, working on LJ, working on Michaels house, going on trips, nights out in the city and suddenly I havnt got much time at all.
Anyway back to 4wd's.
So I said I would get some more pics of the super rare Suzuki LJ50. So this is Suzuki's first 4x4 and is powered by a 600cc 2 stroke engine.
I mentioned that it had got some great features, that at the time 40+ years ago were quite innovative.
One feature was all the electrics were on top of the engine to keep them nice and dry.
Something that I've never seen before but is an awesome idea is the 2 hoses that go from the heater inside the car into the distributor. So the distributor is permanently pressurised with warm air. Perfect for keeping the engine running when fording rivers.
We've done a bit of work on the little Suzuki and now its going back into storage.
Basic, retro interior.
Its got little chrome lift up bars, presumably for when driving with the doors off.
Anyway back to LJ.....................................
So Friday night I picked the freshly built diff up from my diff guy.
A smear of blue RTV sealant.
Its heavy but it went in a lot easier than I was expecting, once I'd maneuvered myself into a position where I could bench press it up and into position.
Air line connected.
2 of the rubber boots on my track rod ends were split, yet the ball joints felt good.
Replacement rubber boots.
I removed the old boot, cleaned all the old grease out and then filled the ball joints back up with some of the marine grease I'd bought for the wheel bearings and king pin bearings.
1 done.
Other one.
Back onto the front axle rebuild.................
The next job was replacing the inner oil seals.
These are the better than genuine Toyota (supposedly) Trail Gear oil seals.
Old oil seal out.
I then discovered that the new oil seals were a different size to the ones needed for LJ.
One good thing about Landrovers......................The swivel balls unbolt from the axle, meaning they can be replaced.
The ones on LJ were quite worn and pitted in places, but obviously the only way to replace them would be to cut them off and weld new ones on. Not something I want to do.
After realizing the oil seals were wrong I was keen to see if the new ball swivel seals would fit and work.
NO wrong ones.
After speaking to Dave (Model maker man) Who has also bought the same bits and was in fact the persons who inspired me to buy these bits, the thought was that the metal rock rings should still bolt up, especially if the bottom/top 2 holes are enlarged slightly.
I figured even if I couldn't use the rock rings I could still use the ball seals, with my old Toyota metal plates.
So I fitted the rubber seals.
Hub on.
Holes enlarged and rings bolted onto the other hub.
I found the rubber seals were a really tight fit over the ball. I managed to bolt one of the rings on the top, but then couldn't squeeze the seal in close enough at the bottom to get the other ring on.
At this point after trying for an hour to get the Trail Gear swivel ball seals and rock rings fitted I admitted defeat and ordered some more genuine bits from Toyota.
Ball swivel seals.
I borrowed this awesome kit from work, must get me one of these. Great for knocking bearing races, and oil seals in with.
New oil seal in.
Followed by the half shaft and CV.
New ball swivel seals went on next.
Fitted the new wheel bearings into the hub next.
Bearing race got tapped in first.
Followed by the bearing.
Followed by the oil seal.
Cleaned the disc both sides with thinners to remove any oil/grease and re-fitted the brake calliper.
Other side.
Filled the diff up with oil next.
Following on from this thread:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/49298-Air-filter
My new air filter arrived.
Old filter out.
There is no point having a snorkel if the holes in the bottom of the factory airbox arnt sealed up.
Sealed the holes with more blue RTV sealant.
The next day when the RTV sealant was dry I could fit the new air filter.
Michael was busy repairing all the door cards on his 80. The guy who fitted his sound system managed to damage all the door cards by pulling the clips out of the door cards. So Michael used some of my Tiger seal (Thanks Nelson
) to stick on some pieces of aluminum that hed drilled some new holes in, over the existing damaged holes.
Some of the guys from the 4wd club had called by to see how we were getting on with our trucks. Both Patrol drivers.
I needed to repair the broken rear body mounts and decided that it would be a bit easier if I removed the rear bumper.
It appears that the swing away wheel carrier pivot has bent.
Anyway.........................bumper off.
I needed to remove the body lift spacers that were now embedded in the body.
I was pleased to find that I could get to the body lift bolt access holes, without removing the drawer system.
The bolts were an absolute bitch to get out, the one took over an hour to get out.
The spacers were pretty chewed up.
The body was pretty chewed up.
Using the reciprocating saw I started to cut the sides of the jagged hole square.
It was pretty tight with not much room to work in.
The otherside was even trickier as the exhaust was in the way, so that needed removing.
Rick, the owner of one of the Patrol's gave me a hand using his Bosch, Fein style power tool.
The Patrol owners suggested I should do a rear guard (quarter panel) chop, which is a common mod on Patrol's.
The bottom of the rear quarters were looking pretty rough, with dents and cracked filler.
So a few beer later and it seemed like an OK idea.
Out with the 9" grinder.
I cut below where I wanted the panel to finish to allow me to bend the metal under and create a lip which I can then rivet/tek screw/weld to.
Cut and folded up.
Other side.
Weapons of choice.
Couldn't quite get all the way through even with the 9" grinder so had to finish it off with the recip saw.
Squaring up the jagged hole.
This Fein style tool was invaluable as I couldn't get anything else in the enclosed space.
LJ should be a tiny bit lighter now.
The cut out panels will need enclosing in on the bottoms.
So the next job was to make some cardboard templates.
I took the templates to work and cut some 2.5mm steel on the guillotine and bandsaw.
I also measured the internal dimensions of the section of body where I've cut out following the bodylift spacers smashing their way through the metal.
The plan is to completely fill that hollow section of body with metal, and then bolt through the new metal, back through the body lift spacer and chassis.
So I took the measurements to work and had a look in the scrap bin and worked out how best to construct the body inserts.
Quickly welded up and ready to now be inserted into the body and welded in place. Just need to mark and drill them first.
After work tonight I used Michaels pressure washer to wash all the sections I will be welding.
I also washed the bumper.
Before tucking LJ back into the garage.
Freezing cold and raining heavily tonight in Melbourne.
I'm taking LJ to work tomorrow and after work I will have 5 hours to get the welding done and rear bumper re-fitted. Also need to re-fit the last section of exhaust.
Then Friday afterwork were off to the High Country for another trip.
Apologies if you guys were expecting something more dramatic when I mentioned taking a 9" angle grinder to LJ.
I'm now technically working the least amount of hours I've ever done, work wise. But then factor in gym, working on LJ, working on Michaels house, going on trips, nights out in the city and suddenly I havnt got much time at all.
Anyway back to 4wd's.
So I said I would get some more pics of the super rare Suzuki LJ50. So this is Suzuki's first 4x4 and is powered by a 600cc 2 stroke engine.
I mentioned that it had got some great features, that at the time 40+ years ago were quite innovative.
One feature was all the electrics were on top of the engine to keep them nice and dry.
Something that I've never seen before but is an awesome idea is the 2 hoses that go from the heater inside the car into the distributor. So the distributor is permanently pressurised with warm air. Perfect for keeping the engine running when fording rivers.
We've done a bit of work on the little Suzuki and now its going back into storage.
Basic, retro interior.
Its got little chrome lift up bars, presumably for when driving with the doors off.
Anyway back to LJ.....................................
So Friday night I picked the freshly built diff up from my diff guy.
A smear of blue RTV sealant.
Its heavy but it went in a lot easier than I was expecting, once I'd maneuvered myself into a position where I could bench press it up and into position.
Air line connected.
2 of the rubber boots on my track rod ends were split, yet the ball joints felt good.
Replacement rubber boots.
I removed the old boot, cleaned all the old grease out and then filled the ball joints back up with some of the marine grease I'd bought for the wheel bearings and king pin bearings.
1 done.
Other one.
Back onto the front axle rebuild.................
The next job was replacing the inner oil seals.
These are the better than genuine Toyota (supposedly) Trail Gear oil seals.
Old oil seal out.
I then discovered that the new oil seals were a different size to the ones needed for LJ.
One good thing about Landrovers......................The swivel balls unbolt from the axle, meaning they can be replaced.
The ones on LJ were quite worn and pitted in places, but obviously the only way to replace them would be to cut them off and weld new ones on. Not something I want to do.
After realizing the oil seals were wrong I was keen to see if the new ball swivel seals would fit and work.
NO wrong ones.
After speaking to Dave (Model maker man) Who has also bought the same bits and was in fact the persons who inspired me to buy these bits, the thought was that the metal rock rings should still bolt up, especially if the bottom/top 2 holes are enlarged slightly.
I figured even if I couldn't use the rock rings I could still use the ball seals, with my old Toyota metal plates.
So I fitted the rubber seals.
Hub on.
Holes enlarged and rings bolted onto the other hub.
I found the rubber seals were a really tight fit over the ball. I managed to bolt one of the rings on the top, but then couldn't squeeze the seal in close enough at the bottom to get the other ring on.
At this point after trying for an hour to get the Trail Gear swivel ball seals and rock rings fitted I admitted defeat and ordered some more genuine bits from Toyota.
Ball swivel seals.
I borrowed this awesome kit from work, must get me one of these. Great for knocking bearing races, and oil seals in with.
New oil seal in.
Followed by the half shaft and CV.
New ball swivel seals went on next.
Fitted the new wheel bearings into the hub next.
Bearing race got tapped in first.
Followed by the bearing.
Followed by the oil seal.
Cleaned the disc both sides with thinners to remove any oil/grease and re-fitted the brake calliper.
Other side.
Filled the diff up with oil next.
Following on from this thread:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/49298-Air-filter
My new air filter arrived.
Old filter out.
There is no point having a snorkel if the holes in the bottom of the factory airbox arnt sealed up.
Sealed the holes with more blue RTV sealant.
The next day when the RTV sealant was dry I could fit the new air filter.
Michael was busy repairing all the door cards on his 80. The guy who fitted his sound system managed to damage all the door cards by pulling the clips out of the door cards. So Michael used some of my Tiger seal (Thanks Nelson
) to stick on some pieces of aluminum that hed drilled some new holes in, over the existing damaged holes.
Some of the guys from the 4wd club had called by to see how we were getting on with our trucks. Both Patrol drivers.
I needed to repair the broken rear body mounts and decided that it would be a bit easier if I removed the rear bumper.
It appears that the swing away wheel carrier pivot has bent.
Anyway.........................bumper off.
I needed to remove the body lift spacers that were now embedded in the body.
I was pleased to find that I could get to the body lift bolt access holes, without removing the drawer system.
The bolts were an absolute bitch to get out, the one took over an hour to get out.
The spacers were pretty chewed up.
The body was pretty chewed up.
Using the reciprocating saw I started to cut the sides of the jagged hole square.
It was pretty tight with not much room to work in.
The otherside was even trickier as the exhaust was in the way, so that needed removing.
Rick, the owner of one of the Patrol's gave me a hand using his Bosch, Fein style power tool.
The Patrol owners suggested I should do a rear guard (quarter panel) chop, which is a common mod on Patrol's.
The bottom of the rear quarters were looking pretty rough, with dents and cracked filler.
So a few beer later and it seemed like an OK idea.
Out with the 9" grinder.
I cut below where I wanted the panel to finish to allow me to bend the metal under and create a lip which I can then rivet/tek screw/weld to.
Cut and folded up.
Other side.
Weapons of choice.
Couldn't quite get all the way through even with the 9" grinder so had to finish it off with the recip saw.
Squaring up the jagged hole.
This Fein style tool was invaluable as I couldn't get anything else in the enclosed space.
LJ should be a tiny bit lighter now.
The cut out panels will need enclosing in on the bottoms.
So the next job was to make some cardboard templates.
I took the templates to work and cut some 2.5mm steel on the guillotine and bandsaw.
I also measured the internal dimensions of the section of body where I've cut out following the bodylift spacers smashing their way through the metal.
The plan is to completely fill that hollow section of body with metal, and then bolt through the new metal, back through the body lift spacer and chassis.
So I took the measurements to work and had a look in the scrap bin and worked out how best to construct the body inserts.
Quickly welded up and ready to now be inserted into the body and welded in place. Just need to mark and drill them first.
After work tonight I used Michaels pressure washer to wash all the sections I will be welding.
I also washed the bumper.
Before tucking LJ back into the garage.
Freezing cold and raining heavily tonight in Melbourne.
I'm taking LJ to work tomorrow and after work I will have 5 hours to get the welding done and rear bumper re-fitted. Also need to re-fit the last section of exhaust.
Then Friday afterwork were off to the High Country for another trip.
Apologies if you guys were expecting something more dramatic when I mentioned taking a 9" angle grinder to LJ.
Last edited:
AndyCook
Well-Known Member
not as dramatic as I was anticipating, but still major surgery 
hope it all gets finished in time for the trip
I got a seal inserting kit similar to that one you used, off ebay recently - should making fitting seals much easier
hope it all gets finished in time for the trip
I got a seal inserting kit similar to that one you used, off ebay recently - should making fitting seals much easier
not as dramatic as I was anticipating, but still major surgery
hope it all gets finished in time for the trip
Second all of that!
It was the same on my 80, those deep pockets simply hold water and rust. I had both sides welded but equally I think I could have cut them off and plated over as you have.
The Suzi is cute for a novelty, but a 600cc 2-stroke is a bit on the light side even in those days. I thought my 1955 Austin A30 was underpowered with an 803cc 4-stroke petrol!
Strange to see a coil and distributor on the 2 stroke, I thought it more likely to have a magneto HT & LT. It seems to have an alternator as well, when DC dynamos were often the way, years ago.
Good stuff Ben, keep it up mate!
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- Country Flag
Thanks guys. 
I cant decide whether to weld the plates on that will cap the bottom of the guards off, or whether Tiger seal and tek screws might be better.
Atleast if I Tiger seal and tek screw I can paint the metal both sides. Where as if I weld them on, the inside face wont be painted as it will simply burn off when I weld.
Non of it will really be seen once the rear bumper goes back on anyway.
Obviously the body mounts will be getting welded in.
I cant decide whether to weld the plates on that will cap the bottom of the guards off, or whether Tiger seal and tek screws might be better.
Atleast if I Tiger seal and tek screw I can paint the metal both sides. Where as if I weld them on, the inside face wont be painted as it will simply burn off when I weld.
Non of it will really be seen once the rear bumper goes back on anyway.
Obviously the body mounts will be getting welded in.
Thanks guys.
I cant decide whether to weld the plates on that will cap the bottom of the guards off, or whether Tiger seal and tek screws might be better.
Atleast if I Tiger seal and tek screw I can paint the metal both sides. Where as if I weld them on, the inside face wont be painted as it will simply burn off when I weld.
Non of it will really be seen once the rear bumper goes back on anyway.
Obviously the body mounts will be getting welded in.
If you're after an opinion Ben, where there's no structural strength needed, painted steel will last longer than unprotected steel. I'd go for the screw or rivet options. I'd also consider drain holes. I know they will let water in on occasions, but they will create some ventilation and an escape route for condensation.
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Thanks Clive thats what I was thinking.
Already ahead of you on the drain hole front.
Was thinking of drilling a hole in each piece of metal for a rubber grommet to push into. As youve mentioned above, they do fill with water from time to time.
Reading back through what I've posted above, I don't think I explained the reason for Trail Gear problems very well.
I wrongly presumed that the diff and axles underneath LJ and KZJ70's were the same as those found on the Hi-lux, so all the Trail Gear parts were bought as Hi-lux bits.
Obviously now I know Hi-lux's run different size inner oil seals, so maybe different size half shafts aswell. The hubs are totally different as the Rock Rings wouldn't bolt on and as the ball swivel seals wouldn't fit properly I think the Hi-lux must run slightly smaller balls.
icon-razz:
The Suzuki Jimny comp truck I'm building at work has a Hi-lux front axle that I've fitted this week, so my plan is to sell/swap the bits with my boss. The axle has leaking seals, and is missing 2 of the metal plates anyway. So fingers crossed I shouldnt loose any money on those bits.
Thinking of starting a Jimny build thread soon on my old Suzuki clubs forum. Will post a link here when I do.
Already ahead of you on the drain hole front.
Was thinking of drilling a hole in each piece of metal for a rubber grommet to push into. As youve mentioned above, they do fill with water from time to time.
Reading back through what I've posted above, I don't think I explained the reason for Trail Gear problems very well.
I wrongly presumed that the diff and axles underneath LJ and KZJ70's were the same as those found on the Hi-lux, so all the Trail Gear parts were bought as Hi-lux bits.
Obviously now I know Hi-lux's run different size inner oil seals, so maybe different size half shafts aswell. The hubs are totally different as the Rock Rings wouldn't bolt on and as the ball swivel seals wouldn't fit properly I think the Hi-lux must run slightly smaller balls.
icon-razz: The Suzuki Jimny comp truck I'm building at work has a Hi-lux front axle that I've fitted this week, so my plan is to sell/swap the bits with my boss. The axle has leaking seals, and is missing 2 of the metal plates anyway. So fingers crossed I shouldnt loose any money on those bits.
Thinking of starting a Jimny build thread soon on my old Suzuki clubs forum. Will post a link here when I do.
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Oops missed your post as was typing my reply above.
Do you really think it needs welding? Will welding make it a lot stronger?
LJ is never going to be a show car.
I just need her to be reliable and capable to take me up/over and through the most challenging terrain I can find in Australia.
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Doodle
Well-Known Member
Oops missed your post as was typing my reply above.
Do you really think it needs welding? Will welding make it a lot stronger?
LJ is never going to be a show car.
I just need her to be reliable and capable to take me up/over and through the most challenging terrain I can find in Australia.
Even though it's not a show car, it'll be stronger and more solid - a permanent fix. Gorilla snot and self-tappers seems like a bodge by comparison - fine to get you out of a hole, but you know you can do better.
The drain hole will give you access to throw some rust inhibitor in the cavity periodically.
Shayne thanks for your input, but surely expanding foam will absorb water like a sponge.
Shayne may well be correct, but I'm not so sure. I remember that Alfa Romeo used to fill their monocoque chassis sections with foam (in my opinion because the steel they used was so thin the foam stopped the boxes from collapsing!).
A guy came to me with one complaining that his car had failed the MOT because of rust on these sections. Yes there was rust but there were more painted clean areas than rust and I thought the failure was a bit harsh.
Anyway, I said I'd plate them just to shut the MOT guy up and get the certificate.
When I started the job, I found the boxes had rotted from the inside and the shitty hardened foam was just as you described, sodden with water. It was a bugger of a job because the foam was highly flammable as well
But, modern materials are better so I may be wrong. IMO there's no such thing as waterproof or airtight, so they will rust. Go with weld, it will be stronger, and the Dinitrol or other will look after the rust problem.
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If you read the spec sheet on the link i sent you will see the foam is "moisture curing" , hence damp will be absorbed creating a chemical reaction hardening the foam until it can absorb no more . As far as "not completely filling the void" most foams expand around 30 times its initial size , If the foam remains liquid until it reacts with damp and with only one small hole for the excess to escape i have to assume there is little chance of voids .
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Thanks guys.
I feel shattered! I've just worked for 17 hours straight.
The good news is LJ is back together and all the camping gear is loaded ready for tomorrows trip back to the High Country.
The bad news is I f****d up and put one of the tines on the fork lift through the back window.
Will update the thread when I get back from the trip.
Nearly midnight and I'm finally getting dinner.
I feel shattered! I've just worked for 17 hours straight.
The good news is LJ is back together and all the camping gear is loaded ready for tomorrows trip back to the High Country.
The bad news is I f****d up and put one of the tines on the fork lift through the back window.
Will update the thread when I get back from the trip.
Nearly midnight and I'm finally getting dinner.
I can add to that: bugger damn
Shows what can happen when you're tired.
I have to confess that when I picked up my refurbished car on Thursday, last week, my wife said "be careful not to crash it". Of course my reaction was
"what a stupid thing to say, obviously I won't be crashing it" and on Friday evening driving back from collecting my father-in-law, I crashed into the back of an old collector's item Mercedes!You can imagine how delighted the owner was (not) and me phoning my wife "er... Guess what...!". Mind you, zero damage to my car and the Merc... Lots, to the rear panel, light unit destroyed, boot lid, boot floor, deformed rear side panel.... Oh my word, not a pretty sight!
We lost several hours but sorted all the papers and as it happens hes a good guy and he has has 11 different Mercedes cars dating back to the 50s and a Hummer and an offroad perepared Patroil, and a few other bits and pieces. He said he even has a spare engine for my 80 and he knows where I can get s/h 80 parts (I want a front axle casing) and someone that will re-upholster my drivers seat!
Every cloud... Eh?
Good luck Ben, I hope that's the extent of the damage a new/ s/h glass shouldn't be a problem to you and if not a piece of chequer-plate will do for the time being!
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Well guys me and LJ have just got back from another Epic 4wd trip to the High Country!
LJ performed faultlessly!
So apart from the rear window to replace theres no jobs/fixes that need doing before our next trip to the High Country in 2 weeks time.
Which is good because I'm 3 weeks+ behind with the rent so I need to crack on and get some more building projects done on Michaels house.
Will get a trip report up in the next few days.
LJ performed faultlessly!
So apart from the rear window to replace theres no jobs/fixes that need doing before our next trip to the High Country in 2 weeks time.
Which is good because I'm 3 weeks+ behind with the rent so I need to crack on and get some more building projects done on Michaels house.
Will get a trip report up in the next few days.
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