LJ70 Build Thread!

[Ben]

thanks.

i fitted the KZJ70 rad this afternoon.

it fitted perfectly, with just one vacuum hose being in the way.

fitted a new genuine 4-runner top rad hose as the top hose. i couldnt use the new genuine 4-runner bottom hose as it was at the wrong angle. so i used the original 4-runner top hose for now, as the bottom hose. plan is to use the new bottom hose that wouldnt fit, once i get the X-ENG thermoswitch housing which will sit in the bottom rad hose. should be able to make the new hose work, because i will turn it round slightly after cutting it in half.

cable tied the vacuum hose to the top of the rad.

got 10 litres of pre mixed coolant.

put 8.5 litres in the rad and the other 1.5 litre in the expansion bottle.

i think i need another few litres though, because a lot of coolant came out when i removed the water pump, so im guessing the engine must hold a good few litres.

anyway..............................she fired straight up, and didnt go bang!

actually sounds noticeably quieter, the only thing i can think of is that the old tensioner pulley did have a bit of play in it, so maybe changing that has improved things.

i ran it for half an hour and most of that time i had the blow heater on full. the engine got up to temp, but the bottom rad hose stayed cold, where as the top one got hot. so wondering whether ive got an air lock.
going to see if the rad needs topping up tomorrow, as id have thought if the stat opened then the level in the rad should have dropped.

re-fitted the back bumper now its been painted.

so next jobs/mods...........

fit electric fan and wire up to thermo switch.

plumb in the intercooler.

sleeve the rear steering bar, and then fit both new strengthened bars.

make steering guard.

make guard to protect the exhaust down pipe, transfer case and X-ENG hand brake.

wire up new winch solenoids, wireless remotes and new cut off switch.

either change the output bearings in the transfer case, or change the whole box.

once box has been sorted, re-fit X-ENG hand brake.

convert the rear brakes to disc.

fit front ARB locker.

 

[Ben]

the clips are to keep crap out of the timing belt cover area ...
if you are on the highway, i wouldn't be overly concerned.
if you play in the slop then i would be concerned.

they are cheap and easy to install so why not?

you think they will have to be genuine toyota parts?

im guessing they will.

need a part number really.

 

[Chris]

Ben, the bottom hose is supposed to be cold? That's your radiator working. If both hose were hot then... well you get the idea.


Chris

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The cast in boss on the water outlet from head elbow is fitted there to take a thermo switch. If you fit a switch in the bottom hose, you run the risk of cooking the engine because the engine coolant needs to be controlled in time to avert possible disaster. It's pointless to place a thermo switch in section of hose that is taking cooled water back into the engine.

Roger

 

[Ben]

Ben, the bottom hose is supposed to be cold? That's your radiator working. If both hose were hot then... well you get the idea.


Chris

yes didnt really think about it before, but that makes sense.

The cast in boss on the water outlet from head elbow is fitted there to take a thermo switch. If you fit a switch in the bottom hose, you run the risk of cooking the engine because the engine coolant needs to be controlled in time to avert possible disaster. It's pointless to place a thermo switch in section of hose that is taking cooled water back into the engine.

Roger

can you give me an ebay link to a suitable thermo switch please. one similar to yours, as i know youve had yours fitted for quite a few miles.

i dont mind taking the housing off and drilling and tapping it, might just have to buy the correct size tap. its just finding the right thermo switch.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Dave---Model Maker Man---has done the same mod Ben, and he has a more up to date switch fitted. Mine, apparently, is no longer available.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The bottom hose should not actually be cold when the engine has reached normal operating temperature, but it should be noticeably colder than the top hose.

Firstly the engine begins to warm up from a cold start. The thermostat is closed and the water pump is circulating the water in the engine. There is no flow through the rad. When the temp. has reached the opening value on the stat, the stat begins to open and hot water flows into the rad at the top. It flows downwards, cooling as it does. It exits the bottom of the rad and passes back into the engine. Within 2km, my engine has reached normal operating temp.but the rad will still be cold. It can take another 10 km before the whole system is operating normally. If the water at the bottom of the rad is at the same temp. as the top, overheating is taking place and disaster is knocking at the door.

Roger

 

[Landcruiser Power]

Hey ben I see you are going the electric fan route, may I ask why, as I just service mind every year and Ive had no problems in 8 years of owning the truck

 

[ModelMakerMan]

I posted pics of my setup which is very similar to Rogers on page 53 of this thread.

I used a similar thermo switch to Roger (the one he used has been discontinued), it is 3/8" thread and switches at 95*C from a Diahatsu (cant remember which model). I just too a picture of rogers thermo switch into my local parts place and asked them for something similar with 3/8" thread that switches at around 95*C.

I have the correct tap if you wanted to borrow it Ben I could post it to you?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Hey ben I see you are going the electric fan route, may I ask why, as I just service mind every year and Ive had no problems in 8 years of owning the truck

A viscous fan operates at all times, even when the engine is cold. Yes, it slows down as the engine slows but it is always using power.

My Kenlowe rarely comes on and is obviously not using power until it is. It also means that a slight reduction in fan belt tension can be accommodated with a resulting increase in water pump and alternator bearing life.

Roger

 

[Ben]

thanks Roger.

Hey ben I see you are going the electric fan route, may I ask why, as I just service mind every year and Ive had no problems in 8 years of owning the truck

a few reasons really. the main reason is because since fitting the new engine, the new engine sits further back than the original one, resulting in the viscous fan being too far away from the rad to work very well, even more so since i couldnt get the cowl on the back of the rad to line up properly with the fan.

ive noticed from doing previous electric fan conversions on 4x4's, that the electric fan rarely comes on in day to day driving, meaning that normally with the viscous fan continually turning. it must zap some power from the engine and must increase fuel consumption slightly.

wading! id like to be able to switch the fan off when fording deep rivers.

I posted pics of my setup which is very similar to Rogers on page 53 of this thread.

I used a similar thermo switch to Roger (the one he used has been discontinued), it is 3/8" thread and switches at 95*C from a Diahatsu (cant remember which model). I just too a picture of rogers thermo switch into my local parts place and asked them for something similar with 3/8" thread that switches at around 95*C.

I have the correct tap if you wanted to borrow it Ben I could post it to you?

thanks Dave, thats a very kind offer from you. i will see if i can find a suitable thermo switch then.

 

[Ben]

was very busy at work today so didnt get chance to try and source a thermo switch, but will try tomorrow.

the 90 degree 2" mild steel bend i ordered arrived today.

so after dinner decided to spend an hour and make a start making the flange.

so unbolted the alloy turbo pipe on the top of the engine. but 2 of the nuts wouldnt come loose and instead wound the studs out.

managed to get one of them out with mole grips, but couldnt get the other one out. in the end had to carefully put the stud in the vice and clamp it up as tight as possible and then i was able to spin the nut off.

this isnt quite what i imagined the current flange would look like. i imagined it would just be one hole in the middle. i hope my new flange wont restrict it as it will only have a 50mm hole in it. although the alloy pipe reduces down to a 50mm pipe on the other end, so maybe it wont be a problem.

so i drew around it onto a piece of steel, and also marked where i want my 50mm centre hole to be.

cut it roughly to shape with the angle grinder with a thin slitting disc.

then gave it a smooth up on the bench grinder.

this is roughly how the pipe will sit on the flange, although the pipe will be cut down a lot so that it sticks up as little as possible.

i refitted the alloy pipe back on the truck, so that i can use it to get to work in tomorrow, all was going well till i came to fit the metal spring clip back around the rubber hose which goes onto one end of the alloy piece.

i squeezed the clip together with some pliers, went to push it down a bit onto the rubber and SNAP straight on my finger, within seconds a huge blood blister appeared and now its throbbing.

that f****G clip wont be going back on again! jubilee clips all the way from now on!

going to take the flange to work tomorrow and drill the holes. then hopefully tomorrow night i can cut and tack weld the pipe on.

 

[Landcruiser Power]

I feel your pain those clips are pain in the ass, mine came of in the middle of no were.

heres some pictures of how I did my pipe

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Ben that flange looks a bit thin, you might have problems getting it to seal?

 

[Ben]

I feel your pain those clips are pain in the ass, mine came of in the middle of no were.

heres some pictures of how I did my pipe

that looks good. think i might have to change my design slightly.

Ben that flange looks a bit thin, you might have problems getting it to seal?

i was worried some one might say that.

ive used 3mm as thats all i had lying about, the next size up was 8mm which i thought was too thick.

might have some 5 or 6mm at work i could use.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

3mm for the flange is far to thin. You need 6mm min. As you have 8mm, use it. The studs are formed with a "Torx" extension. You hold the stud in place with a "Torx" socket and crack the nut with a spanner, preferably ring.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Also if you cut the pipe at an angle the hole will be oval which will cover more of the original shape on the flange.

 

[Crushers]

i do have to agree, the 8 mm will give a much better seal ...

at least you are trying, that is more than 95% of the cruiser community.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Cutting through 8 mm plate will not be easy. Suggestions.

a) Drill holes around the circle and clean up afterwards with file or high speed internal grinder.

b) Hole saw. You will need to cut from both sides, very slowly and with lots of cutting fluid. WD40 is useless for this. Use either a proper cutting fluid or a light oil.

c) Flame cut and finish as (a).

d) Laser cut.

Roger

 

[Gav Peter]

Ben (in a drawn out stern paternal manner...), 3mm sheet... Are you sure...

I thought you had a plasma cutter a while back?? At least you have made a good template

Keep up the good work amigo