Roger Fairclough
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Ben, have you replaced the split pins in the castellated nuts?
Roger
Roger
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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
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69 my favourite number! 
so i got the steering guard painted in the week.
first in red oxide primer.
then in black enamel.
so got it bolted on today.
i unbolted the little tin toyota guard from underneath the transfer box.
and then began measuring up for the guard im going to make.
it will protect the exhaust at the front, then the transfer box, and then the X-ENG hand brake disc at the back.
i used a straight edge to gauge where if any the bends in the sheet metal would need to be.
and found that the exhaust, gearbox cross member and handbrake disc are all virtually in line.
so the plan is is to use some thick gauge box section to space the guard down slightly off the cross member, and at the very back there will be 1 possibly 2 legs that will brace the guard back to the round chassis cross member.
the sheet metal for the guard will have a 45 degree bend front and back, with a small 20mm upstand. thinking of using 6 or 8mm plate and will probably put a load of holes in it with a 50mm hole saw.
hoping to get the steel next week.
while under there i noticed the amount of play in the output bearings, on the rear of the transfer case is getting worse.
so i will have to get the box dropped out and new bearings fitted soon.
not looking forward to lying on my back on the gravel drive, removing the box.
ive been following Sam's drawer thread with great interest, and have been particularly impressed with Chris's idea about using electrical cable tray.
so i decided i wanted to do something similar in the back of my 70. the wooden boxes i made over the arches, have worked well in the last 6months or so that theyve been fitted. but its not always easy to get stuff in and out, and what i need is usually right at the bottom.
so how the wooden boxes looked.
emptied everything out.
unscrewed and removed all the wood.
then used a straight edge to gauge how high i can make them.
my original plan was to make 2 drawers both the same size, side by side. but that would mean having to open both back doors to open either drawer.
so then i thought about making one of the drawers smaller, so that it can be opened with only one door open.
but then i thought the other drawer might be too large, and be too heavy to open and close when full of stuff.
so i need to look into the possibility of having 3 equally sized drawers, but this will depend on how much drawer space i will loose with the bits in between the drawers that will have the bearings bolted onto, and also the alloy box section that im thinking of using between the bearings.
ive got a lovely big sheet of 6mm alloy that will go over the whole lot afterwards. some where on this the spare will have to be mounted.
i did think it might be cool to have a slide out shelf/table above the drawers, but under the main top, which would be useful when camping for cooking on.
the space ive got in the boot for the drawer unit, measures 1025mm wide, by 180mm heigh (could go more, if i like, thats just to the tops of the wheel arches) by 1080 deep. so the drawers are going to be quite deep.
so i got the steering guard painted in the week.
first in red oxide primer.
then in black enamel.
so got it bolted on today.
i unbolted the little tin toyota guard from underneath the transfer box.
and then began measuring up for the guard im going to make.
it will protect the exhaust at the front, then the transfer box, and then the X-ENG hand brake disc at the back.
i used a straight edge to gauge where if any the bends in the sheet metal would need to be.
and found that the exhaust, gearbox cross member and handbrake disc are all virtually in line.
so the plan is is to use some thick gauge box section to space the guard down slightly off the cross member, and at the very back there will be 1 possibly 2 legs that will brace the guard back to the round chassis cross member.
the sheet metal for the guard will have a 45 degree bend front and back, with a small 20mm upstand. thinking of using 6 or 8mm plate and will probably put a load of holes in it with a 50mm hole saw.
hoping to get the steel next week.
while under there i noticed the amount of play in the output bearings, on the rear of the transfer case is getting worse.
so i will have to get the box dropped out and new bearings fitted soon.
not looking forward to lying on my back on the gravel drive, removing the box.
ive been following Sam's drawer thread with great interest, and have been particularly impressed with Chris's idea about using electrical cable tray.
so i decided i wanted to do something similar in the back of my 70. the wooden boxes i made over the arches, have worked well in the last 6months or so that theyve been fitted. but its not always easy to get stuff in and out, and what i need is usually right at the bottom.
so how the wooden boxes looked.
emptied everything out.
unscrewed and removed all the wood.
then used a straight edge to gauge how high i can make them.
my original plan was to make 2 drawers both the same size, side by side. but that would mean having to open both back doors to open either drawer.
so then i thought about making one of the drawers smaller, so that it can be opened with only one door open.
but then i thought the other drawer might be too large, and be too heavy to open and close when full of stuff.
so i need to look into the possibility of having 3 equally sized drawers, but this will depend on how much drawer space i will loose with the bits in between the drawers that will have the bearings bolted onto, and also the alloy box section that im thinking of using between the bearings.
ive got a lovely big sheet of 6mm alloy that will go over the whole lot afterwards. some where on this the spare will have to be mounted.
i did think it might be cool to have a slide out shelf/table above the drawers, but under the main top, which would be useful when camping for cooking on.
the space ive got in the boot for the drawer unit, measures 1025mm wide, by 180mm heigh (could go more, if i like, thats just to the tops of the wheel arches) by 1080 deep. so the drawers are going to be quite deep.
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i dont suppose youve got a link have you please Wayne? 
*EDIT* found it. thanks
http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... dup-4.html
*EDIT* found it. thanks
http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... dup-4.html
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
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Ben.
You'll find it a lot easier to have all 4 wheels at least 150mm off the ground when you get drop the g/box, otherwise the bell housing may foul on the chassis rails when you pull the box clear.
Roger
You'll find it a lot easier to have all 4 wheels at least 150mm off the ground when you get drop the g/box, otherwise the bell housing may foul on the chassis rails when you pull the box clear.
Roger
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ok thanks Roger. ive got some huge axle stands and some ramps so will get it as high as i can.
my plan is to have a day off one friday and take the box off. then the next day shoot down to yours with the box, where hopefully with your guidance fit all the new parts. then sunday re-fit the box back on my truck, ready to drive it to work on the monday.
hoping to re-fit the X-ENG calliper, and hopefully get the X brake working once the box is back in.
my plan is to have a day off one friday and take the box off. then the next day shoot down to yours with the box, where hopefully with your guidance fit all the new parts. then sunday re-fit the box back on my truck, ready to drive it to work on the monday.
hoping to re-fit the X-ENG calliper, and hopefully get the X brake working once the box is back in.
jeepmadmike
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- Feb 11, 2011
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Draws, What draw runners are you planning on using Ben?
I made a pair of draws for my navara a few years ago, I used unistrut channel and cheap bearings which are 35mm OD with 10mm ID so can be bolted on with 10mm bolts
They worked a treat and survived 3 years of daily use with 200kg in each draw they where 1500mm long and travelled if I remember correctly travelled 1100mm dead easy to open and close as long as your parked on the level.......
The draws where 12mm birch ply and survived without any issues.
When I replaced the truck I sold the draws on eBay!
I made a pair of draws for my navara a few years ago, I used unistrut channel and cheap bearings which are 35mm OD with 10mm ID so can be bolted on with 10mm bolts
They worked a treat and survived 3 years of daily use with 200kg in each draw they where 1500mm long and travelled if I remember correctly travelled 1100mm dead easy to open and close as long as your parked on the level.......
The draws where 12mm birch ply and survived without any issues.
When I replaced the truck I sold the draws on eBay!
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going to use some alloy box section, bolted to the side of my drawers, with bearings top and bottom. very similar to the ironman drawer system.
cant decide what to make the actual drawer from. ply would be easiest, but id rather use metal really.
hoping to pick up the lengths of cable tray tomorrow. then need to get the alloy box section next time im in Shrewsbury. thinking of using 2" x 1" box with quite a thick wall.
still very unsure about what to make the drawers from and what catches to use.
cant decide what to make the actual drawer from. ply would be easiest, but id rather use metal really.
hoping to pick up the lengths of cable tray tomorrow. then need to get the alloy box section next time im in Shrewsbury. thinking of using 2" x 1" box with quite a thick wall.
still very unsure about what to make the drawers from and what catches to use.
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went into city electrical today to buy the 225mm cable trays.
i wanted to get them then and there, so that i could start work on the drawer project tonight, but they were out of stock. but..............they did have them in stock at the other telford branch, but i couldnt justify driving over to the other branch, in works time.
will be going past the other branch tomorrow so will pick up 2 3m lengths. i did get a price on them though, £11.50 +VAT each. so £27.60 for the 2 with VAT if my maths is correct.
it looks like my newly built, and fitted steering guard will be for sale very shortly too, if what ive been planning for a while comes off!
i wanted to get them then and there, so that i could start work on the drawer project tonight, but they were out of stock. but..............they did have them in stock at the other telford branch, but i couldnt justify driving over to the other branch, in works time.
will be going past the other branch tomorrow so will pick up 2 3m lengths. i did get a price on them though, £11.50 +VAT each. so £27.60 for the 2 with VAT if my maths is correct.
it looks like my newly built, and fitted steering guard will be for sale very shortly too, if what ive been planning for a while comes off!
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picked up the cable tray today.
only just fitted in my workshop, really must make sure i build the next one much bigger!
got one 3meter length of the 75mm medium duty tray.
and 2 3meter lengths of the 225mm standard cable tray.
so first step was to mark the 225mm tray ready for cutting and bending.
once i knew my overall length which was 2490, i centred this up to make sure that both ends would have the holes in the same places.
marked it.
once it was cut, i turned it around ready to cut the other end.
these are the cutting discs i use, there inox specials and because there only 1mm thick they slice through thin sheet metal very quickly.
next i marked where i wanted my bends, making sure i also marked the edges.
put a cut where the bend needed to be.
i then used some pliers to tweak the metal apart slightly.
then i cut a piece of fire wood to the exact internal size of the tray. this would be my former block.
i then clamped this firmly in place where i wanted the bend.
i then bent the metal around the wooden former. i found using a rubber mallet helped me get a perfect corner.
once the metal was all bent i drilled through the corners.
and then riveted the metal together.
rivets are ideal for this because there lighter than bolts, and unlike bolts they wont rattle loose over thousands of K's of corrugated roads!
the riveted corners made the whole structure feel very strong, and this wouldnt have been possible if id cut V's out. it is also a lot less work to cut 1 slit than to mark and cut V's.
i then tried the first one in place to see how it fitted.
i then brought it back into the workshop and began on the next one. so i laid the first one onto the next tray so that i could get the end cut off in exactly the right place.
once i was happy with the position i clamped the 2 together and then cut the end off with the grinder.
marked where the cut needed to be for the bend.
did all my cuts where the bends needed to be, and then flipped it around and marked where the end needed to be cut off.
clamped the wooden former in place and again bent the metal, hitting it with the rubber mallet as i bent it.
i then drilled and riveted all the corners top and bottom.
i then tried it in the vehicle and it fitted perfectly.
run out of room in the workshop, so set some trestles up in the garage. next job is to bolt the 2 together.
quite pleased with my how my 2 hours on this went. reminds me of mechano.
only just fitted in my workshop, really must make sure i build the next one much bigger!
got one 3meter length of the 75mm medium duty tray.
and 2 3meter lengths of the 225mm standard cable tray.
so first step was to mark the 225mm tray ready for cutting and bending.
once i knew my overall length which was 2490, i centred this up to make sure that both ends would have the holes in the same places.
marked it.
once it was cut, i turned it around ready to cut the other end.
these are the cutting discs i use, there inox specials and because there only 1mm thick they slice through thin sheet metal very quickly.
next i marked where i wanted my bends, making sure i also marked the edges.
put a cut where the bend needed to be.
i then used some pliers to tweak the metal apart slightly.
then i cut a piece of fire wood to the exact internal size of the tray. this would be my former block.
i then clamped this firmly in place where i wanted the bend.
i then bent the metal around the wooden former. i found using a rubber mallet helped me get a perfect corner.
once the metal was all bent i drilled through the corners.
and then riveted the metal together.
rivets are ideal for this because there lighter than bolts, and unlike bolts they wont rattle loose over thousands of K's of corrugated roads!
the riveted corners made the whole structure feel very strong, and this wouldnt have been possible if id cut V's out. it is also a lot less work to cut 1 slit than to mark and cut V's.
i then tried the first one in place to see how it fitted.
i then brought it back into the workshop and began on the next one. so i laid the first one onto the next tray so that i could get the end cut off in exactly the right place.
once i was happy with the position i clamped the 2 together and then cut the end off with the grinder.
marked where the cut needed to be for the bend.
did all my cuts where the bends needed to be, and then flipped it around and marked where the end needed to be cut off.
clamped the wooden former in place and again bent the metal, hitting it with the rubber mallet as i bent it.
i then drilled and riveted all the corners top and bottom.
i then tried it in the vehicle and it fitted perfectly.
run out of room in the workshop, so set some trestles up in the garage. next job is to bolt the 2 together.
quite pleased with my how my 2 hours on this went. reminds me of mechano.
Great stuff - well done! I'm now inspired!!
I am delighted that you are both road testing my idea. 
It is certainly saving me a whole load of work planning mine. Not completely convinced that this is the cable tray that I originally looked at though. But seems to be working fine. Keep going!
Looking forward to the drawers next.
Chris
It is certainly saving me a whole load of work planning mine. Not completely convinced that this is the cable tray that I originally looked at though. But seems to be working fine. Keep going!Looking forward to the drawers next.
Chris
