froggy Steve
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hang on, gotta go change my trousers.......
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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
hang on, gotta go change my trousers.......
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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- 6,058
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I had my first day back at work on Friday and made a start on an exciting new project I'm working on. 
You may remember we got a badly accident damaged Suzuki Jimny in a while ago and I was given the task of stripping it for parts. After removing the body I found that the chassis, engine, axles etc. were all in really really good condition and I told my boss I thought it was a shame to strip it any further and we could make a cool, super light buggy out of it.
Then I came up with a really good idea.............................
Lets sell the reasonably valuable low mileage engine and auto box in the Jimny and fit a Vitara engine and box. Not only will we gain an extra 300cc, going from a 1.3L to a 1.6L engine, but we have lots of Vitara engines in stock and there not as valuable.
Fast forward a few months and we sold the engine and box to a guy who wanted to replace the blown engine in his Mrs's Jimny and convert it to Auto at the same time. This meant that we now had a rolling chassis that had already put us well in profit and had given us some cash to throw at the project!
So my plan......................
-Fit a mid mounted 1.6L Vitara engine and auto box.
-Fit a center mounted tricked up Warn 8274 winch and run it out the back, through a snatch block, then through a tube and out the front of the truck in a Vector Foers style, meaning we can winch forwards or backwards with one winch.
(http://www.4wdonline.com/Foers/Winch.html)
-Full roll cage/tube body.
-ARB lockers front and rear.
-Custom front suspension and raised rear.
-Bob tailed chassis front and rear.
-Low center of gravity and as light as possible.
I've got a few more ideas but thats the rough plan.
I've taken some inspiration from the following builds and we've sourced a bonnet so we can have a tapered cut one on ours:
Not Jimny but this is kind of the look I'm thinking.
OK......................
This is the basis for the project and with these wheels with ridiculous off set fitted, the wheel base is almost as wide as it is long!
Initially I thought I could rotate the pitman arm on the bottom of the steering box 180 degrees, this would mean I could move it back along the chassis towards the rear of the car 300+mm. This would have meant that the chassis and body could be 200mm+ back from the tyres meaning it would have had an awesome 90 degree+ approach angle!
But as I thought about it more I realised that doing this would mean you would steer left to go right!
Obviously the ultimate choice would be hydro steer!
But as I'm doing this build on quite a small budget this isnt really an option.
So looking at it I can take at least 100mm off the front to the cross member, although I will probably take that cross member out anyway and replace it with something a bit stronger.
The body mounts, some of which are badly bent will all get cut off.
The back end will be much easier to bob tail.
I removed the anti roll bar, another part which will go on the shelf with all the other used Jimny parts to be sold.
I found a suitable Vitara engine and auto box.
I got it nice and clean with the jet wash and de-greaser.
I could then try it in the chassis.
I cut the chassis cross member out of the way and I will have to make and weld a new one in to support the auto box once we've decided upon the exact position of the engine.
I will also possibly have to remove the next cross member to allow clearance for the rear prop shaft. I'm also thinking for the winch to work I will need to remove the fuel tank and probably make my own custom TIG welded one.
The idea is to have the engine mid mounted, so behind the front axle.
I'm hoping to spend some days on the build this week!
More soon, as always thoughts and suggestions welcome.
You may remember we got a badly accident damaged Suzuki Jimny in a while ago and I was given the task of stripping it for parts. After removing the body I found that the chassis, engine, axles etc. were all in really really good condition and I told my boss I thought it was a shame to strip it any further and we could make a cool, super light buggy out of it.
Then I came up with a really good idea.............................
Lets sell the reasonably valuable low mileage engine and auto box in the Jimny and fit a Vitara engine and box. Not only will we gain an extra 300cc, going from a 1.3L to a 1.6L engine, but we have lots of Vitara engines in stock and there not as valuable.
Fast forward a few months and we sold the engine and box to a guy who wanted to replace the blown engine in his Mrs's Jimny and convert it to Auto at the same time. This meant that we now had a rolling chassis that had already put us well in profit and had given us some cash to throw at the project!
So my plan......................
-Fit a mid mounted 1.6L Vitara engine and auto box.
-Fit a center mounted tricked up Warn 8274 winch and run it out the back, through a snatch block, then through a tube and out the front of the truck in a Vector Foers style, meaning we can winch forwards or backwards with one winch.
(http://www.4wdonline.com/Foers/Winch.html)
-Full roll cage/tube body.
-ARB lockers front and rear.
-Custom front suspension and raised rear.
-Bob tailed chassis front and rear.
-Low center of gravity and as light as possible.
I've got a few more ideas but thats the rough plan.
I've taken some inspiration from the following builds and we've sourced a bonnet so we can have a tapered cut one on ours:
Not Jimny but this is kind of the look I'm thinking.
OK......................
This is the basis for the project and with these wheels with ridiculous off set fitted, the wheel base is almost as wide as it is long!
Initially I thought I could rotate the pitman arm on the bottom of the steering box 180 degrees, this would mean I could move it back along the chassis towards the rear of the car 300+mm. This would have meant that the chassis and body could be 200mm+ back from the tyres meaning it would have had an awesome 90 degree+ approach angle!
But as I thought about it more I realised that doing this would mean you would steer left to go right!
Obviously the ultimate choice would be hydro steer!
But as I'm doing this build on quite a small budget this isnt really an option.
So looking at it I can take at least 100mm off the front to the cross member, although I will probably take that cross member out anyway and replace it with something a bit stronger.
The body mounts, some of which are badly bent will all get cut off.
The back end will be much easier to bob tail.
I removed the anti roll bar, another part which will go on the shelf with all the other used Jimny parts to be sold.
I found a suitable Vitara engine and auto box.
I got it nice and clean with the jet wash and de-greaser.
I could then try it in the chassis.
I cut the chassis cross member out of the way and I will have to make and weld a new one in to support the auto box once we've decided upon the exact position of the engine.
I will also possibly have to remove the next cross member to allow clearance for the rear prop shaft. I'm also thinking for the winch to work I will need to remove the fuel tank and probably make my own custom TIG welded one.
The idea is to have the engine mid mounted, so behind the front axle.
I'm hoping to spend some days on the build this week!
More soon, as always thoughts and suggestions welcome.
Last edited:
Craigmorley
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- Apr 26, 2014
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- 341
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Hi Ben posts all look brilliant and jealous of ur trip mate looked a good larf!! Well done mate good on u!
Where you get ur air lockers from and any clues on what size pinion I'll need?
You ou got a link of where u got urs from?
what u recommend front or rear locker??
Thanks Ben keep it all up aswell
Where you get ur air lockers from and any clues on what size pinion I'll need?
You ou got a link of where u got urs from?
what u recommend front or rear locker??
Thanks Ben keep it all up aswell
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- Oct 13, 2010
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- 6,058
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Looks awesome Rob. 
I love the 12HT its one of Toyota's best ever engines!
Thanks Craig, was a great trip.
I got my ARB air lockers from Devon 4x4 and was very pleased with the price and service from them.
However I've not been overly impressed with my air lockers as they have proven to be bloody unreliable!
My rear is leaking quite badly inside the diff now meaning when I use it the compressor just keeps running all the time its engaged.
Thats despite getting it rebuilt a year or so ago by a diff expert who worked at ARB HQ for 10 years fitting lockers and I used all new Koyo bearings and genuine ARB seals.
If I had the choice again I would get an E locker from some one like Harrop.
http://www.harrop.com.au/store/driveline/harrop_elocker/toyota/land_cruiser_70_series
Theres a few other companies doing E lockers, such as:
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...veAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221472#tabs-1
I'd fit a rear one first and if/when funds permit get a front one!
They are awesome things! Instant traction at the flick of a switch!
I love the 12HT its one of Toyota's best ever engines!
Thanks Craig, was a great trip.
I got my ARB air lockers from Devon 4x4 and was very pleased with the price and service from them.
However I've not been overly impressed with my air lockers as they have proven to be bloody unreliable!
My rear is leaking quite badly inside the diff now meaning when I use it the compressor just keeps running all the time its engaged.
Thats despite getting it rebuilt a year or so ago by a diff expert who worked at ARB HQ for 10 years fitting lockers and I used all new Koyo bearings and genuine ARB seals.
If I had the choice again I would get an E locker from some one like Harrop.
http://www.harrop.com.au/store/driveline/harrop_elocker/toyota/land_cruiser_70_series
Theres a few other companies doing E lockers, such as:
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...veAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221472#tabs-1
I'd fit a rear one first and if/when funds permit get a front one!
They are awesome things! Instant traction at the flick of a switch!
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I got a little bit more done on the project Jimny.
First I removed the springs and dropped it down onto its bump stops to check if the front diff will clear the engine sump.
It cleared fine.
The next job was to cut all the old engine mounts off and the plasma cutter was the best job for this.
I removed the fuel tank to avoid a fire.
I also cut the bent front body mounts off.
I cleaned the paint off the chassis where I intended to mount the engine, quite a way back from the original engine mounts and well behind the front diff.
And then tried the engine back in.
The next job was to fab up some engine mounts so I could bolt the engine in place.
I decided to reinforce the chassis where the engine mounts as the chassis isnt that thick.
I cut a cardboard template.
Then cut 2 out of some 3mm steel.
Tacked them in place.
Cut some 6mm plate and tacked the engine mounts in place.
I've probably spent as much time working on this project as I have looking, measuring and discussing it with my boss.
We really wanted to use as many Jimny parts on this build as possible, but one major issue was the rear prop shaft. As were using a Vitara transfercase which has the output in the center of the box, with the Jimny axle with off set diff it meant the prop shaft would be at a nasty angle.
So we've decided to use a Vitara rear axle, which has the diff in the center. This will mean we will have a much stronger rear axle and a straight prop shaft. I'm going to mount it using 4 links.
On the front we need to obviously match the rear diff ratio, so we will use a Sierra (SJ) front axle with a Vitara ring and pinion fitted and I'm hoping to 4 link it as well if theres enough room for the links beneath the engine.
If I can 4 link the front it will mean I can get rid of the panhard rod and move the axle forwards 100/150mm meaning the front tyres will be well in front of the front of the chassis for an awesome approach angle.
Were planning on fitting the longest off the shelf springs we can get, so probably OME +3" Jeep springs. I will weld new spring perches onto the chassis and weld them nice and high so that we keep the truck and center of gravity nice and low and have only a smallish amount of up travel but a shit load of down travel.
Thats as far as I got on it as customers jobs keep getting in the way.
I've been doing a bit of work on LJ.
When I connected the engine oil pressure gauge after the engine conversion I connected it wrong and burnt out the gauge.
So when I went back to the UK I picked up another set of clocks off Karl.
When I came to fit it I found its actually different to mine and must be out of an import as its in kilometers and hasnt got miles on it.
Obviously not a problem though down here as thats what all the road speeds are measured in.
But as it had different electrical connections on the back, it wouldnt plug into my loom.
So I stripped both sets down and used the kilometers fascia and oil pressure gauge off the new clocks and fitted them into my old ones.
Fitted.
While away on the trip I thought of a few changes I wanted to make to LJ.
One was to move the fridge and fridge slide closer to the side of the car.
It could be moved over 95mm.
I also decided that as I rarely need the waffle boards and even when I do 2 are normally enough, that I will remove 2 from LJ and just carry 2. That would mean I could drop the fridge down by 75mm which would obviously lower the COG and also make it easier to see into the fridge.
Also with the removed ply and waffles LJ would be 25kg lighter. Not much but it all adds up.
Checking for clearance.
The other idea I had while I was away was to build a storage shelf above the fridge running the entire width and depth of the rear of the cab. This will be out of light weight tube with mesh welded on and will be ideal for all the sleeping bags, pillows, roll mat, tent, chairs and bags of clothes.
Had I had this for the trip then I wouldnt have needed the blue space cases on the roof.
It will fit reasonably tightly to the sides of the car so wont need an up stand on those sides, but it will need one on the front to stop stuff from shooting out the front. It will be mounted used the 4 seat belt mounting points.
And finally the rear panhard rod.......................
Because the rear panhard rod is too short after the suspension lift, the rear tyres stick out 30mm further from the chassis on the drivers side than the passenger side.
Before the trip we noticed that because of this the rear axle is constantly being pulled side ways and this had badly damaged the near new rear bushes in the rear trailing arms.
The panhard rod is also not at a particularly good angle and this must be limiting articulation.
Now the common fix for this is to fit a longer, adjustable panhard rod. But there isnt one available anywhere for LJ70's.
A longer panhard rod will centralise the axle but........................
It wont fix the angle.
So my idea is to make a bolt on drop bracket that will drop the chassis mount down for the rear panhard rod. This will centralise the axle and more importantly put the angle of the panhard rod back to how it was when it left the factory.
First I removed the springs and dropped it down onto its bump stops to check if the front diff will clear the engine sump.
It cleared fine.
The next job was to cut all the old engine mounts off and the plasma cutter was the best job for this.
I removed the fuel tank to avoid a fire.
I also cut the bent front body mounts off.
I cleaned the paint off the chassis where I intended to mount the engine, quite a way back from the original engine mounts and well behind the front diff.
And then tried the engine back in.
The next job was to fab up some engine mounts so I could bolt the engine in place.
I decided to reinforce the chassis where the engine mounts as the chassis isnt that thick.
I cut a cardboard template.
Then cut 2 out of some 3mm steel.
Tacked them in place.
Cut some 6mm plate and tacked the engine mounts in place.
I've probably spent as much time working on this project as I have looking, measuring and discussing it with my boss.
We really wanted to use as many Jimny parts on this build as possible, but one major issue was the rear prop shaft. As were using a Vitara transfercase which has the output in the center of the box, with the Jimny axle with off set diff it meant the prop shaft would be at a nasty angle.
So we've decided to use a Vitara rear axle, which has the diff in the center. This will mean we will have a much stronger rear axle and a straight prop shaft. I'm going to mount it using 4 links.
On the front we need to obviously match the rear diff ratio, so we will use a Sierra (SJ) front axle with a Vitara ring and pinion fitted and I'm hoping to 4 link it as well if theres enough room for the links beneath the engine.
If I can 4 link the front it will mean I can get rid of the panhard rod and move the axle forwards 100/150mm meaning the front tyres will be well in front of the front of the chassis for an awesome approach angle.
Were planning on fitting the longest off the shelf springs we can get, so probably OME +3" Jeep springs. I will weld new spring perches onto the chassis and weld them nice and high so that we keep the truck and center of gravity nice and low and have only a smallish amount of up travel but a shit load of down travel.
Thats as far as I got on it as customers jobs keep getting in the way.
I've been doing a bit of work on LJ.
When I connected the engine oil pressure gauge after the engine conversion I connected it wrong and burnt out the gauge.
So when I went back to the UK I picked up another set of clocks off Karl.
When I came to fit it I found its actually different to mine and must be out of an import as its in kilometers and hasnt got miles on it.
Obviously not a problem though down here as thats what all the road speeds are measured in.
But as it had different electrical connections on the back, it wouldnt plug into my loom.
So I stripped both sets down and used the kilometers fascia and oil pressure gauge off the new clocks and fitted them into my old ones.
Fitted.
While away on the trip I thought of a few changes I wanted to make to LJ.
One was to move the fridge and fridge slide closer to the side of the car.
It could be moved over 95mm.
I also decided that as I rarely need the waffle boards and even when I do 2 are normally enough, that I will remove 2 from LJ and just carry 2. That would mean I could drop the fridge down by 75mm which would obviously lower the COG and also make it easier to see into the fridge.
Also with the removed ply and waffles LJ would be 25kg lighter. Not much but it all adds up.
Checking for clearance.
The other idea I had while I was away was to build a storage shelf above the fridge running the entire width and depth of the rear of the cab. This will be out of light weight tube with mesh welded on and will be ideal for all the sleeping bags, pillows, roll mat, tent, chairs and bags of clothes.
Had I had this for the trip then I wouldnt have needed the blue space cases on the roof.
It will fit reasonably tightly to the sides of the car so wont need an up stand on those sides, but it will need one on the front to stop stuff from shooting out the front. It will be mounted used the 4 seat belt mounting points.
And finally the rear panhard rod.......................
Because the rear panhard rod is too short after the suspension lift, the rear tyres stick out 30mm further from the chassis on the drivers side than the passenger side.
Before the trip we noticed that because of this the rear axle is constantly being pulled side ways and this had badly damaged the near new rear bushes in the rear trailing arms.
The panhard rod is also not at a particularly good angle and this must be limiting articulation.
Now the common fix for this is to fit a longer, adjustable panhard rod. But there isnt one available anywhere for LJ70's.
A longer panhard rod will centralise the axle but........................
It wont fix the angle.
So my idea is to make a bolt on drop bracket that will drop the chassis mount down for the rear panhard rod. This will centralise the axle and more importantly put the angle of the panhard rod back to how it was when it left the factory.
Craigmorley
Well-Known Member
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- Apr 26, 2014
- Messages
- 341
- Country Flag
Hi Ben could you have a look at this item number and then let me no what u think mate cheers
also will it fit my 92 lj70 thanks
281334853290 eBay
also will it fit my 92 lj70 thanks
281334853290 eBay
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Hi Craig.
Yeah that should fit fine!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281334853...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=281334853290&_rdc=1
My mate has one of the faux air lockers fitted to the front of his patrol and after a few years of hard use its still going strong!
Hoping to get an update up soon, just been ridiculously busy so havent been on here much lately!
Yeah that should fit fine!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281334853...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=281334853290&_rdc=1
My mate has one of the faux air lockers fitted to the front of his patrol and after a few years of hard use its still going strong!
Hoping to get an update up soon, just been ridiculously busy so havent been on here much lately!
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
OK update time guys..................................
I've been designing and making a bolt on bracket to drop the rear panhard rod down to compensate for the suspension lift.
I cut and drilled some 6mm steel.
And welded it together.
That bracket will bolt on the passenger side chassis rail and will have a length of tube welded to it that will run down to the panhard drop bracket.
This is how the tube will go roughly.
I cut and welded some more 6mm steel.
On the trip the swing away wheel carrier cracked the welds.
So I re-welded it.
Cut some 2mm steel to reinforce it.
My boss very kindly gave me an old woodworking bench from work. I almost declined it as its another big thing to pay to store when I go to the mines but its a great bench and will be very useful especially in the huge workshop that I will have under the house I'm going to build.
The vice on it was knackered.
But I happened to have a decent Record one that I saved from a skip about 5 years ago that I have been saving to one day mount on a bench.
It doesnt look very well used, but needed a good clean and oil as it was pretty rusty.
So I stripped it all down.
I took the bits to work to clean them.
I then used the wire wheel on the grinder to clean all the rust off.
LJ has been making me money rather than taking it for a change!
I've been doing some carpentry work for a friend.
The new bench has come in very useful.
Painted all the timber.
LJ was a little too small really for all my tools and the materials but we managed.
The job was to replace a load of hand rail and spindles that were rotten.
Piranha work next....................................
My boss wanted me to shave some more Suzuki diff housings. I made an alluminium template that I could use as a guide to plasma cut around.
I TIG welded some 6mm steel on and added some tube braces.
I've put some inspirational pics up on the wall of my office for the Jimny project I'm designing and building.
I made a start changing the front Jimny axle for a Sierra (SJ) one.
The CV's and half shafts on Sierra's are quite a bit bigger and stronger than Jimny ones and we have chromoly ones in stock so will fit those.
We can also match the diff ratio for the Vitara rear diff easier, as the USA got Vitaras and Sierras but sadly not the Jimny. So theres a few companies over there making parts such as ring and pinions etc. for Sierras and Vitaras but obviously not Jimnys.
Also we will have a pair of Jimny axles we can sell for good money which will give me more money to spend on cool stuff for the project!
This is the Sierra axle I will be fitting but we will probably have to remove the high steer kit from it as we may not it get it passed by scrutineering with that fitted.
Removed the wheels from the Jimny axle.
And bolted them on to the Sierra one.
And rolled the Sierra one in place.
I want all the wheels to project forward of the front and back of the car so that it will have the best approach and departure angle possible!
I got a load of different arms from our Suzuki parts warehouse to have a play with.
Theres even a set of custom made Jimny radius and trailing arms that were originally on Frankenzuke when it came in as a wreck.
I bolted on the Jimny radius arms and as I was thinking at this point of 4 linking the front i used just the end mount on the radius arm and was considering cutting the other mount off.
I cut another chassis cross member out as I was thinking of turning the pitman arm on the steering box to allow me to have the front axle so far in front of the steering box.
I wanted to turn the pitman arm from this position.
To this position.
But that would mean the truck would go right when you steered left and vice versa.
Thats as far as I got with it but the plan is now to take the high steer off and fit the standard steering linkage but with one of the tierod ends turned around the the other way to make the angle of the steering link a bit better.
I'm also not going to 4 link the front as there really isnt room with the engine, so the front will be 3 link and the rear will be 4 link.
Another project I've started is a LWB Maruti Sierra. Suzuki Japan sold all the old tooling to Maruti when they stopped making Sierras and the Indian car maker produced and sold Sierras for a while.
This particular truck was rescued from a scrap yard and although it is in pretty rough condition having spent its entire life on a farm, it is a reasonably rare model and so we've decided to save it rather than stripping it for parts.
So my plan is to turn it into another shooting/farm truck like the last one I built which sold almost instantly and for good money. So a weeks worth of my time and a load of old parts we've already got sitting around and we will have a great truck!
So my plan is to remove the roof and doors.
Build a roll cage for it and fit some of my tube doors.
Jack it up and stick some big tyres on it.
Knock the dents out and give it a quick respray.
Replace the knackered 1 litre engine and gearbox with a 1.3 one.
I removed all of this.
I could then push it outside and jet wash it.
It was very dirty underneath and looked like it had been parked in a few feet of slurry for a long time!
The only clues that its not a Suzuki.
Fitting the 1.3 engine in place of the 1 litre would require engine mount modifications so I decided it would be easier with the body off.
Also to give it a lift on a budget I'm going to fit a body lift and make my own spacers out of box section steel.
I then got the chassis back outside to give it another degrease and jet wash.
Once clean I pushed it back in and parked it next to the other project Suzuki I'm working on.
I then Pushed the body back outside and gave that a good clean.
The engine bay came up really clean compared to how it was.
I've been designing and making a bolt on bracket to drop the rear panhard rod down to compensate for the suspension lift.
I cut and drilled some 6mm steel.
And welded it together.
That bracket will bolt on the passenger side chassis rail and will have a length of tube welded to it that will run down to the panhard drop bracket.
This is how the tube will go roughly.
I cut and welded some more 6mm steel.
On the trip the swing away wheel carrier cracked the welds.
So I re-welded it.
Cut some 2mm steel to reinforce it.
My boss very kindly gave me an old woodworking bench from work. I almost declined it as its another big thing to pay to store when I go to the mines but its a great bench and will be very useful especially in the huge workshop that I will have under the house I'm going to build.
The vice on it was knackered.
But I happened to have a decent Record one that I saved from a skip about 5 years ago that I have been saving to one day mount on a bench.
It doesnt look very well used, but needed a good clean and oil as it was pretty rusty.
So I stripped it all down.
I took the bits to work to clean them.
I then used the wire wheel on the grinder to clean all the rust off.
LJ has been making me money rather than taking it for a change!
I've been doing some carpentry work for a friend.
The new bench has come in very useful.
Painted all the timber.
LJ was a little too small really for all my tools and the materials but we managed.
The job was to replace a load of hand rail and spindles that were rotten.
Piranha work next....................................
My boss wanted me to shave some more Suzuki diff housings. I made an alluminium template that I could use as a guide to plasma cut around.
I TIG welded some 6mm steel on and added some tube braces.
I've put some inspirational pics up on the wall of my office for the Jimny project I'm designing and building.
I made a start changing the front Jimny axle for a Sierra (SJ) one.
The CV's and half shafts on Sierra's are quite a bit bigger and stronger than Jimny ones and we have chromoly ones in stock so will fit those.
We can also match the diff ratio for the Vitara rear diff easier, as the USA got Vitaras and Sierras but sadly not the Jimny. So theres a few companies over there making parts such as ring and pinions etc. for Sierras and Vitaras but obviously not Jimnys.
Also we will have a pair of Jimny axles we can sell for good money which will give me more money to spend on cool stuff for the project!
This is the Sierra axle I will be fitting but we will probably have to remove the high steer kit from it as we may not it get it passed by scrutineering with that fitted.
Removed the wheels from the Jimny axle.
And bolted them on to the Sierra one.
And rolled the Sierra one in place.
I want all the wheels to project forward of the front and back of the car so that it will have the best approach and departure angle possible!
I got a load of different arms from our Suzuki parts warehouse to have a play with.
Theres even a set of custom made Jimny radius and trailing arms that were originally on Frankenzuke when it came in as a wreck.
I bolted on the Jimny radius arms and as I was thinking at this point of 4 linking the front i used just the end mount on the radius arm and was considering cutting the other mount off.
I cut another chassis cross member out as I was thinking of turning the pitman arm on the steering box to allow me to have the front axle so far in front of the steering box.
I wanted to turn the pitman arm from this position.
To this position.
But that would mean the truck would go right when you steered left and vice versa.
Thats as far as I got with it but the plan is now to take the high steer off and fit the standard steering linkage but with one of the tierod ends turned around the the other way to make the angle of the steering link a bit better.
I'm also not going to 4 link the front as there really isnt room with the engine, so the front will be 3 link and the rear will be 4 link.
Another project I've started is a LWB Maruti Sierra. Suzuki Japan sold all the old tooling to Maruti when they stopped making Sierras and the Indian car maker produced and sold Sierras for a while.
This particular truck was rescued from a scrap yard and although it is in pretty rough condition having spent its entire life on a farm, it is a reasonably rare model and so we've decided to save it rather than stripping it for parts.
So my plan is to turn it into another shooting/farm truck like the last one I built which sold almost instantly and for good money. So a weeks worth of my time and a load of old parts we've already got sitting around and we will have a great truck!
So my plan is to remove the roof and doors.
Build a roll cage for it and fit some of my tube doors.
Jack it up and stick some big tyres on it.
Knock the dents out and give it a quick respray.
Replace the knackered 1 litre engine and gearbox with a 1.3 one.
I removed all of this.
I could then push it outside and jet wash it.
It was very dirty underneath and looked like it had been parked in a few feet of slurry for a long time!
The only clues that its not a Suzuki.
Fitting the 1.3 engine in place of the 1 litre would require engine mount modifications so I decided it would be easier with the body off.
Also to give it a lift on a budget I'm going to fit a body lift and make my own spacers out of box section steel.
I then got the chassis back outside to give it another degrease and jet wash.
Once clean I pushed it back in and parked it next to the other project Suzuki I'm working on.
I then Pushed the body back outside and gave that a good clean.
The engine bay came up really clean compared to how it was.
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Coincidence that you are doing a panhard rod mod Ben. Been doing the same myself today in readiness for the new suspension coming from FNB. Went a different way to you. Your skills in fabbing stuff give you different options. I just kinda went with the simple chop and change version. Having had adjustable PH rods before, I found that I needed so little extra length (like half an inch) that I didn't really want to pay all that cash for so little change. And, the adj rods I had before were RH thread only so you had to keep undoing one end to adjust them. I shall cut out a section of the PH rod. If I just add this in, it will be too long to start with.
I decided I'd make a bottle screw version. Started with this LH/RH section to go in the rod. The outer nuts will be welded onto the rod and be locked with the inner nut unless I think of something different.. I'll post the conclusion on my own build thread. But half a world apart and doing the same thing. Ha. Small world.
I decided I'd make a bottle screw version. Started with this LH/RH section to go in the rod. The outer nuts will be welded onto the rod and be locked with the inner nut unless I think of something different.. I'll post the conclusion on my own build thread. But half a world apart and doing the same thing. Ha. Small world.
The Jimny build that's becoming less Jimny day by day
What will this one be called Ben? Grat to see it coming together.
LJ's getting better by the minute too
What will this one be called Ben? Grat to see it coming together.
LJ's getting better by the minute too
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Thats cool Chris!
Should work well.
I'm hoping that by returning my panhard rod to nearer the angle it left the factory with, as opposed to just lengthening it I might get better articulation. I did also wonder if it might improve the ride as obviously it should restore the geometry of the suspension back to standard.
The Jimny build that's becoming less Jimny day by day.
What will this one be called Ben? Great to see it coming together.
LJ's getting better by the minute too
Yeah thats what worries me, I want it to still be a Jimny primarily.
But atleast its still all Suzuki!
Not sure of a name yet.
The Jimny will probably take a while to build as its not a priority job.
Should get the Maruti project done quite quickly though. Then theres the air boat to build which will involve lots of alluminium welding and were still working on the world record attempt project and were hoping to give that a really good test run over the next week! So lots of fun projects/toys to build.
LJ is going really good!
Because I did so much prep work before the desert trip I havent really got to do any work on her now. I'm going to build some rear spring adaptors hopefully next month and I might look at getting some new rear shocks.
Then I want to build the rear cargo shelf and thats pretty much it for a while.
I will also need a new windscreen at some point as a bird hit it on the way back from the desert and cracked it.
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TBH I knew I'd do a windscreen on the trip as thats what has happened every time I've been to the Outback!
But I thought it would be other vehicles kicking stones up when passing on dirt roads.
I've got windscreen cover on my insurance so I'm going to see how much the excess is to have them replace it. The guy my boss uses will do it for $120.
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Thanks Pat!
Don't seem to have much time to get on here anymore.
I'm putting all my energy and concentration into my TIG welding at the moment. I've never wanted something so badly before or been more determined as I am about getting my welding qualification and getting to the mines!
I've only got 2 more weeks at TAFE then they close for almost 3 months for the Christmas/summer break!
So next week I'm going to buy the Miler TIG welder I want, the 200DX.
That way I can practice like hell and hopefully sit the test in the new year.
This is the machine:
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00118
Its a shame I'm not visiting the US this year as buying one over there and bringing it back in my suitcase would save me thousands!
Oh well..................
I see it as an investment in my future, I will put the receipt in with my tax return and once I've mastered alluminium and stainless welding I should be able to make some cash on the side welding things for people.
Anyway................................
Time for some pics!
I've been doing some work on project Maruti this week (well the 3 days I was at work after we had 2 days off at the start of the week for a public holiday.)
I pulled the old knackered 1 litre engine out.
And found a suitable 1.3 litre engine out of the Suzuki parts warehouse.
After deciding the exact spot it needed to sit I could look at modifying the existing engine mounts to suit the new engine.
On the passenger side I could just use a 6mm thick piece of steel.
But the drivers side was slightly more complicated.
Had I have left it like this then over time it would have cracked the welds like it did on one of the trucks on a recent 4wd trip I was on.
The correct way to do it is to triangulate it back to the chassis, thats how I did it on LJ 4-5 years ago and I've never had an issue with welds cracking on engine mounts!
I cut some 75mm x 50mm box section into 60mm pieces and drilled a hole through the center of each. These would be my budget bodylift spacers.
Painted them and bolted them to the body.
I could then lift the body up off the trailer, push the trailer out one way and the chassis in from the other.
Due to the thick rubber body mounts that I used on top of the steel box section spacers the car ended up with a 4" lift and all for virtually no cost!
The old bonnet was totally shot so I found a suitable second hand one, this one is off a Sierra that would have had a 1.3 litre engine, as it has a raised center section that the 1 litre ones never had. Not that it needs it now the body is sitting 4 inches higher!
Wheels and tyres next!
I found some second hand 31" muddies!
Much better than the tiny old 27" road tyres.
Its good practice when lifting a 4wd to go out with the wheels/tyres to make the car more stable. Wheels with more negative off set is the best way to go, but as this is an off road only vehicle I can use wheel spacers (which arnt road legal anywhere in Australia).
This is the first new part I've fitted to the vehicle.
A quick wire brush of the brake drum to get the worst of the rust off, a quick spray of black enamel and on the spacers went.
And on with the new tyres!
Much better!
Starting to look a bit tougher and cooler now!
A few things needing to be done to compensate for the monster bodylift.
One being the steering.
I cut and drilled some 15mm thick steel and found some suitable bolts.
And bolted it in place.
I found a carburetor and engine wiring loom.
I mounted it and got everything all hooked up. I also made some rad brackets and got a 1.3 litre rad bolted in.
We got it running today but were going to try a different carburetor next week as it wasnt running too great.
Plan for next week is to spend a day pulling the worst of the dents out, sanding the body down and respraying it.
Then another day building the roll cage and mounting tube doors.
Still havent decided whether to build a winch bumper for the front or not.
The idea with this project is to do it cheaply using second hand parts weve already got so not sure I can stretch to the time and cost of a winch and winch bumper.
I'm hoping to do some work on LJ tomorrow ready for a 4wd trip next month.
Don't seem to have much time to get on here anymore.
I'm putting all my energy and concentration into my TIG welding at the moment. I've never wanted something so badly before or been more determined as I am about getting my welding qualification and getting to the mines!
I've only got 2 more weeks at TAFE then they close for almost 3 months for the Christmas/summer break!
So next week I'm going to buy the Miler TIG welder I want, the 200DX.
That way I can practice like hell and hopefully sit the test in the new year.
This is the machine:
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/product.php?model=M00118
Its a shame I'm not visiting the US this year as buying one over there and bringing it back in my suitcase would save me thousands!
Oh well..................
I see it as an investment in my future, I will put the receipt in with my tax return and once I've mastered alluminium and stainless welding I should be able to make some cash on the side welding things for people.
Anyway................................
Time for some pics!
I've been doing some work on project Maruti this week (well the 3 days I was at work after we had 2 days off at the start of the week for a public holiday.)
I pulled the old knackered 1 litre engine out.
And found a suitable 1.3 litre engine out of the Suzuki parts warehouse.
After deciding the exact spot it needed to sit I could look at modifying the existing engine mounts to suit the new engine.
On the passenger side I could just use a 6mm thick piece of steel.
But the drivers side was slightly more complicated.
Had I have left it like this then over time it would have cracked the welds like it did on one of the trucks on a recent 4wd trip I was on.
The correct way to do it is to triangulate it back to the chassis, thats how I did it on LJ 4-5 years ago and I've never had an issue with welds cracking on engine mounts!
I cut some 75mm x 50mm box section into 60mm pieces and drilled a hole through the center of each. These would be my budget bodylift spacers.
Painted them and bolted them to the body.
I could then lift the body up off the trailer, push the trailer out one way and the chassis in from the other.
Due to the thick rubber body mounts that I used on top of the steel box section spacers the car ended up with a 4" lift and all for virtually no cost!
The old bonnet was totally shot so I found a suitable second hand one, this one is off a Sierra that would have had a 1.3 litre engine, as it has a raised center section that the 1 litre ones never had. Not that it needs it now the body is sitting 4 inches higher!
Wheels and tyres next!
I found some second hand 31" muddies!
Much better than the tiny old 27" road tyres.
Its good practice when lifting a 4wd to go out with the wheels/tyres to make the car more stable. Wheels with more negative off set is the best way to go, but as this is an off road only vehicle I can use wheel spacers (which arnt road legal anywhere in Australia).
This is the first new part I've fitted to the vehicle.
A quick wire brush of the brake drum to get the worst of the rust off, a quick spray of black enamel and on the spacers went.
And on with the new tyres!
Much better!
Starting to look a bit tougher and cooler now!
A few things needing to be done to compensate for the monster bodylift.
One being the steering.
I cut and drilled some 15mm thick steel and found some suitable bolts.
And bolted it in place.
I found a carburetor and engine wiring loom.
I mounted it and got everything all hooked up. I also made some rad brackets and got a 1.3 litre rad bolted in.
We got it running today but were going to try a different carburetor next week as it wasnt running too great.
Plan for next week is to spend a day pulling the worst of the dents out, sanding the body down and respraying it.
Then another day building the roll cage and mounting tube doors.
Still havent decided whether to build a winch bumper for the front or not.
The idea with this project is to do it cheaply using second hand parts weve already got so not sure I can stretch to the time and cost of a winch and winch bumper.
I'm hoping to do some work on LJ tomorrow ready for a 4wd trip next month.
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