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Looking to buy a 120, rust concerns

@Higgy yeah the yellow connector is what it usually is. Except at this 15/16 year mark. Every 120 I know it's about this age and everyone of them has had this part fail in the steering wheel.
 
One thing I did notice was that the lc4 I viewed today had had a new drivers seat, or possibly a retrim, either way or was in good condition.

A couple more to look at tomorrow I think.

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Latter one is a bit spendy. Anyone know how an imported vehicle affects insurance?
 
38 photos on one, 25 on the other and not one underneath or under the bonnet!

On the first one, I assume the hill descent control button was pushed in when they took the cluster photo....

Money is a bit ridiculous on the second one IMHO, and the first one is £££ too
 
Apart from the price, an import is generally favourable if it came from a sunny climate and away from the coast. They dont suffer from the rust and corrosion that other countries have.
Imported vehicles aren't such an issue now 're insurance. Never had a problem insuring my Jap 78, which was registered for my business, and had cheaper fully comp premiums than the wifes car. There are some insurance companies that specialise in imports, but none of them were favourable in my case.
 
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I did notice that for the import money I could get an 80. Money better spent?
 
Those left seem to be less prone to rust at least.

I want a LC as a second car, not a rust bucket, but I'm not worried about needing to do some mechanical work if needs be. I'd thought to get a 120 for some of the mod cons, but maybe I just want something a bit simpler so there's less to go wrong.
 
80s are good tried and tested vehicles, but are getting on a bit now, so could present more problems associated with age, including rust. Those owner/members would be better informed to give an opinion on those.
 
Dynamically an 80 is a lumbering beast compared to a 120 when driven on road..... and I love my 80 ;-)
Good 80's are getting rare now as most that have a good one will probably be buried in it ... but they are simple uncomplicated vehicles ...body rust is becoming more common now but the last ones were made in 1998 so they are getting on a bit.... some students I taught a few years ago took great delight in telling me my 80 was older than they were.....
 
There's a definitely lack of 80s for sale near by which makes it hard to know if I'd like them. That said if they're a lot more lumbering than a 120 then maybe I should stick to my current search.

I'll see if the garage will jet wash the dirt off that lc4, I think it might be fine underneath.
 
Rich, now youre not sure, to get more informed opinions as per Grimbo, you would be better starting a thread in 80 series to get more info. Loads of members running them.
 
I think I'm swaying back towards the 120 on balance, finding a good 80 seems an even taller order than a 120 and I do like my creature comforts. ;)

Any thoughts on this? It's a bit of a trek over to York, but nothing obviously bad, though no underbody pics of course.

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Looks nice from what we can see - maybe request some pics before going all the way over there?
 
karl2000 said:
Looks nice from what we can see - maybe request some pics before going all the way over there?
Click to expand...
Definitely the plan, it's two hours each way, so not a short trip. EDIT: just phoned, he's going to whatsapp me some pics, so that's good.

Phoned the LC4 dealer this morning, they don't have a proper jetwash on site, so they're going to see if they can take it to get it cleaned off properly.

Nothing from the LC5s place, though I notice one has gone from AT this morning. Dodged a bullet there I suspect. ;)
 
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Higgy said:
Air bag light's most common cause is the seat position sensor under the drivers seat, Normally a broken wire.... There is a thread on here somewhere that i did, Its an easy fix........... OR! It could be what GOK says.... But id bank on the broken wire
Click to expand...

Or the sprial cable in the steering wheel, which is what mine was. About £180 these days, and 15 mins to swap. The workshop manual has a full set of instructions to diagnose where the problem is, that may invove getting your multi meter buried in some wires.
 
That black invincible has sold alas.

New one up in Bedford looks clean enough.

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No plate, anyone local happen to know what it is?
 
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