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Looking to buy a 120, rust concerns

RichC4

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Hi all,

New member, I'm looking to take the plunge into ownership with a 120. I found what I thought was a clean looking example, the advert has a nice picture from underneath showing a (slightly blurred) non-rusted chassis.
I've arrange to go have a look. In the meantime I checked the MOT history and it turns out it's failed on structural corrosion more than once, but then been repaired and passed.

So should I go for it assuming it looks decent in person and assume the repairs are sound, or am I better off looking for something that's had an easier life?
I'm assuming the MOT pass would cover any serious issues, but could there still be lurking rust that will perforate out?
 
You could do worse than post links and pics of what you're considering on here to get some specific opinions. Rust can be a big problem on the 120s.

A lot of traders on eBay or autotrader will run a mile if you ask for pictures of the underside - that tells its own story.

Also beware of vehicles that are undersealed and look ok, but the underseal may be covering something up.

Vehicles that have spent their life in Scotland don't seem to fare well in general.

There's some good ones around but you will probably have to put some effort into the search - there's a recent thread on here from another member who was searching for a 90 for quite a while - all that is probably worth a read too.
 
My thoughts

- Difficult to see too much from that underside picture, but from the amount of chassis corrosion on the very recent MOT, I'd be looking elsewhere

- All the wires lashed around the towbar connector suggest that its been put back together after repairs with not a lot of care. Assume theyre towbar wires, parking sensor wires and possibly lights. Not major but possibly a clue

- Mismatched batteries. Not a good sign as they should always be replaced together with a matched pair - again suggests maintained on a budget

Remember 90% of these cruisers look great on top - the interiors and body work usually looks nice; so you need to look beyond all that.
 
All as per karl2000. The mismatched batteries have another oddity too, the drivers side is the wrong orientation /wrong post positions/ wrong battery. As this is just one of the basics that stand out, I would be very wary, and inspect everything carefully, especially the blacked underside.
No expense spared, hmmm......
 
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Thanks for the advice chaps. I'm in no particular hurry to buy (this will be a second car) so I can afford to skip over anything I'm wary of.
 
Oh dear, this is not looking good for a "no expense spared" vehicle, and this is just what we can see from pics.
 
Is it considered bad form to use a tool (screwdriver maybe?) to poke the rust? ;)
 
I would say yes Rich. Although I know mine is solid underneath now, I would be well pi55ed if someone started that malarkey. One of the reasons MOT inspectors no longer use those methods ad hoc.
 
Tap it with a hammer and listen for changes in sound. Worst place for rust seems to be back left corner (passenger side). I think the heat of the engine and exhaust help dry out the rest of the chassis.
 
Don't be in a hurry to buy that one, LC5, potential trouble with the suspension at that age. If its an early 04 then its likely to be the 4 spd auto taken straight from the Colorado, 5 spd ones a world apart just a little bit newer with engine upgrades too. Wheel on the tailgate less desirable than underslung as it affects the hinges with the weight and doesnt look as good. Drivers seat and steering wheel look tatty.
IMO ( as a 120 owner who went through the buying process) the best model os the LC4 05 plate as it ticks all the boxes, its just finding the solid one and preserving it.
 
All good advice. You may want to check the cut off date too, for massive hike in road tax, depending on what year you go for.
Plenty out there with wheel on door with no problems, just personal choice on that.
 
Tax is £340 vs £585, but as I understand it the later engines are better so maybe that offsets it?
I'd rather pay the extra tax for a really good example so I'm not going to let that sway me.

Is it just the airbags on the suspension that die or are there other gremlins to watch for?
 
The radio is harder to upgrade on the LC5 if you want a more modern head unit (dab etc), and also the suspension is a common failure as previously mentioned.

LC3 has a real rear diff lock which the others don't have.

I've got an LC4 but would be more than happy with a LC3/4/5 - the main thing is to find a good one.
 
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There's three versions of the 1kd-ftv engine with minor improvements of a few hp. I don't think any difference is major enough to be a deal maker/breaker.

There's also an INVINCIBLE version which is an LC5 with a tuning box fitted. TonyC has all the info on that.

The 5 speed auto is probably well worth the upgrade from the early 4 speeds though.
 
Had a look.
Mechanically seemed fine, it drove well, nothing suspicious in the fluids. Suspension height adjust worked.
Engine was warm when I got there which was not ideal, but no other alarm bells.

Rust wise, not great. Front spring perches in poor condition, front chassis legs crumbly.
At the rear there was a weird plastic bag stuck to the underside of the car on the passenger side. No idea what it was covering; it's visible in the AT pic.
All but one mounting tab on the rear bumper corroded.
At least one mounting tab in the centre rear corroded (not sure what this attaches).
Generally the rear was in pretty poor shape under the coating - looks like he's tried to stop the rot but left it too late.

Also the front seat had a full split in the leather.

Think I'll swerve this one.
 
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