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morocco

I'm a geologist so loving some of the rock formations you have photographed.
 
Scott said:
I'm really enjoying the trip report and excellent pictures Reinhard :thumbup: Thanks for taking the time to share.

Roll on the next installment!
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Hey Scott,

You only enjoying the "report" ??

I am enjoying the whole trip !!!

So good are the photos and script, I feel I am there with them.

Gra.
 
As has already been said several times - a great trip and some super pics. :cool: :thumbup:

Peugeot 504 Estate; we had one when I was a youngster. :cool:
 
Loving this thread, keep it coming! Great pics :thumbup:
 
thanks for the feedback. Yes, it was a great trip and I had a great time.

Andy: as a geologist, you would have a 'field day' (pardon the pun) out there. The rock formations are something to see and even understanding why the lake beds are where they are and why there are fossils and shells in the desert.

I've been pretty busy since I have come back so have not been able to keep up the posts but the next installment should be tonight.
 
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Back to the Desert: Military Zones, Minefields and the UN

As we left Assa we came to a police checkpoint and were allowed to proceed along the piste to Smara as long as we kept of the road to Zag, which is in a military zone. The police officer's parting words were ‘under no circumstances report in to the gendarme in Zag’ – warning or friendly advice? The piste to Smara runs parallel with the Algerian border, getting to the closest point between Hawza and Smara. Between the piste and the border lies a mine field and military zone, separating the Moroccan occupied Western Sahara from the free Polisario held region.

We crossed Jbel Ouarkziz to pick the piste to Smara. The piste ran alongside a road which is under construction. The tarmac, we later learned, was to link the Assa - Zag road to TanTan, and was to run along the Assa - Smara route as far as Labrouirat. We actually drove along the piste that ran alongside the road and eventually set up camp a few hundred metres off the road.

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We continued running parallel to the road building until the village of Labrouirat. The shop in the village was rather sparse but one of the locals swapped bread for oranges.

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Once again, the piste followed the old Dakar route and was flanked by markers every few hundred metres. The landscape was wide open plain with groups of hills in the distance. For the most part, the landscape was barren but in places there were scattered accacia and low brush, sometimes stretching for miles. The ground varied from sandy to hamada, crossed by dried river beds.

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We saw herds of camels and a few herdsmen but only one one car on this piste.

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At some point we crossed into Western Sahara. We saw military debris – some empty tubes – this having been a battle ground on the 80s.

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Suddenly we came to a steep descent into a narrow gorge, some 30km from Hawza, that opened up onto a plain. Magnificent view. We made camp in the gorge, which turned out to be very windy - possibly because of the funelling effect of the surrounding hills.

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We broke camp early and headed down to the dried lake bed. The lake bed is 10 km across and is very flat - and is actually a great drive. I suppose it is very easy to get disorientated on it, but the way across is dead straight and is marked with cairns.

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On the otherside of the lake we picked up an old Spanish road. The road is in very bad state, with many pot holes and even missing secions, but it was a choice between either that or corrugations. A new road is being built. This road (following the route of the old P42) seems to be coming from Talha and joins up with the tarmac just West of the military post in Hawza. There should have been a checkpoint at Hawza but we didnt come across one when we drove past - or should we have driven straight through the gates and into the military post? We didn't and no one pursued us.

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Shortly after we picked up the tarmac road that took us across an area which some site on the internet claim is a mine field from the conflict in the 1980's. We came across a couple of white UN Nissan Patrols on this road, a few Land Rover Santanas and quite a few 70 series Land Cruiser pick ups.

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Just outside Smara we got to a checkpoint where the police officer, waving an iphone 4, asked for the usual details plus how long we intented to stay in Smara and where we would be heading afterwards. Just refuel and head to Laayoune, we said.

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Actually we drove into town to have a gander and visit the local market. There was a strong military presence - not just Moroccan army, but also UN peace keepers - in town, but it was pretty relaxed and the locals didn't even give us a second glance.

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On the way out of Smara we passed through a different checkpoint: 'I've been expecting you' said the officer and he proceeded to check our documents against the details he had already received from the previous checkpoint! But I must point out that the military and police at all checkpoints were always very polite and south of Assa, all spoke English. In the north they tend to wave foreign vehicles through. In the south, you were always stopped - but in quite a few cases we were let through after a brief chat when we said we didnt have any fisches.

The road to Laayoune is tarmac and takes you through an arid landscape with occassional small building or tent.

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In Laayoune we were pulled up by a local policeman. Now what, we wondered. He asked for our documents - passport and 'carte gris' and then asked if we had car insurance - which we produced with a flourish - to his dismay, we suspect. We headed north on the N1 and stopped at the Le Tre Roe campsite. We ate in their restaurant, which is very good but maybe a tad expensive, and were served in fine bone china plates with gold edging!!

At the campsite we met an old Andorran gentleman driving a 120 series Land Cruiser. If I understood him correctly, he said that Land Cruisers for the Spanish market are assembled in Spain and could modified at the assembly plant - e.g. non standard suspension, etc. The advantage of this was that it avoided the engineers test and certification that would be required if you modified the vehicle yourself. But as I say, I might have misunderstood. Anyway his 120 sported a winch
hidden behind a standard, non sprayed, front bumber. Inside, the back seats had been stripped out and he had a storage system, bed, cooking area and even a toilet!! He had changed the front passenger seat into a swivel one, so it could be turned to face the rear - giving more convenient seating space when he was parked up but it seems that this mod was not quite in order and he had to swap seats whenever he had to take the vehicle in for testing. It seems that he was on his way back from Mauritania and that he spends around four months a year on the road.... ahh, the life ...
 

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Fantastic! :clap:

Thank you for sharing... I'll find your tracks in the sand one day and remember this post :thumbup:
 
Ocean


The following day we continued north along the N1 crossing over in Morocco. The road followed the cliffs along coastline, although we did lose sight of the ocean in places. Inland, well, the landscape was pretty much as arid as usual. Just before Tarfaya a shipwreck stood just offshore.

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On the beach in town was a memorial to the aviator and author Antoine de Saint Exupéry. Saint Exupery was one of the pilots who pioneered the delivery of mail by plane along this coast in the 1920's when the land was wild and occupied by bandit tribes. As it happens I was reading his Wind, Sand and Stars during this trip.

This part of Morocco attracts travelers for a different reason:

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We stopped at the Niala Flamingo Sanctuary but all the flamingos were out. In fact we were to see flamingos further up the road in various small lakes and ponds that can be found in the oeuds cutting through the cliffs. Further up along the road we passed some saltworks.

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That evening we pulled up close to a small lake for the night. There were three large Dutch trucks next to the lake. After a while a soldier asked us to move to the more exposed windy cliff top as this was a 'contraband route'!?!?!?!?!

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Next morning we drove into TanTan. Once again, it was a quiet town where tourists were not hassled. Just as we left TanTan we crossed the Draa Valley and turned onto dirt rack heading towards Cap Draa. There was greenery in the valley but the track was sandy or stoney. We stopped at the abandoned Tafnidilt Fort.

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We continued on along the piste, in some places climbing through low dunes. It was quite a drive to the cliffs on coast.

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The ground on the cliffs was littered with shells from when they formed part of the sea bed.

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Along the cliff edge were fisherman shacks. And even up here on the cliffs, high above the sea were sand dunes.

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We came across a Swiss man in a Jeep and towing a trailer, complete with RTT and every bit of kit you could imagine, stuck in some dunes. He was exhausted after trying to dig himself out, with the help of a fisherman, for more than 1.5 hours. I am not sure why he did not detach the trailer before trying to recover himself. Anyway, we helped recover him.

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We continued to the cliff top Aoreora Fort descended into the valley below and onto Plage Blanche. We explored the surrounding area on foot and wild camped in dunes above high tide mark.

We spent the following day in the same place, walking along beach and sifting through the flotsam. We cooked fish, bought from one of the local fishermen, on the beach on a driftwood fire.

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Throughout the day we saw few cars – one was driven by a Frenchman taking tourists round. ‘Its a good life’ says he – mmm yes, I can see that – imagination goes into overdrive.

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The next day we woke up early. The tide was low. We bought a large fish from one of the fishermen, who confirmed that the tide was still receeding.

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We then proceeded to drive the length of the beach - all 26kms of it. It was a new experience and we really enjoyed it. The dry sand close to the dunes was soft but the sand uncovered by the receeding tide was firm. Part was across we stopped for breakfast. Whereas yesterday we saw few cars on the beach, today we saw ten, including an old VW camper van. From what we saw, it is possible to drive part way and to camp safely up in the dunes.

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We continued on to Sidi Ifni, where we stopped at the large market to but fruit, bread and water. There were quite a few tourists around and some of the stalls were selling 'antique' souvenirs, but on the whole the place was hassle free. The town is one of a string of tourist resorts along the coast - and it is probably one of the quieter ones.

When the N1 turned inland, we turned towards the coast on a minor road and found a spot by the ocean to camp for the night. We got stuck in the sand trying to find a more secluded spot and it took quite a while to extract ourselves – had to dig out three times, use sand Trac Mats and drop tyre pressure to 1 bar.

I know you all want to see a pic of me digging the truck out .... well, there isn't one. You'll have to make do with this:
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That night we cooked the fish we had bought earlier in the day on drift wood fire.

The next day continued on towards Agadir, picking up the last piste of our trip. The landscape was arid but the ground was covered with wild cacti. In places there were fields of culitvated prickly pear bushes. The piste took us to the abandonded Fort Bou Jerif. We wandered around the ruins and in on corner found a mechanics pit.

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We rejoined the tarmac and came across this wreck.

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Eventually we arrived in Agadir. The town is a majr tourist resort. It is very developed and very busy. We stocked up at the local Marjan supermarket and continued on towards the quieter Essaouira. The road turned inland and took us through hills that resembled parts of southern Spain. There were lots of Argan trees - the nuts are used to produce Argan oil.

We arrived in Essaouira and spent the evening exploring the medina by the ocean.

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The medina is full of old buildings, some restored, some in bad state but occcupied and others empty, sometimes without a roof. The shops and market are a good place to shop as the atmosphere is a lot calmer than Marrakech.

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We spent the night in a local campsite. The next morning, after another walk through the old town, we headed for Marrakech.
 

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Thanks Ben. Lots of 70 series pick ups out there. We also saw a trailer load of white Troopies heading for the ferry port in Spain.
 
i like these 2 70's! :drool:

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i love all cruisers but its 40's and 70's that im most fond of, looks wise anyway! :thumbup:

Edit. cant get the pics to appear! :doh:
 
Yes, lots of those little beauties - especially in the south. Smara must be the capital of 70's.

And I have a really fine specimen coming up in the next instalment ;)
 
Well, I am writing this post in the balcony of my room at the Intercontinental in Malta. I am here on a business trip. It is a nice warm evening. I am just back from a nice meal and as I type this I have a cigar in one hand and a large rum and coke on the table next to me. And you could say that I spent the evening writing a report - well it is a report ... a trip report :whistle:
 
Marrakech and exit

The drive from Essaouira to Marrakech takes around 2.5 hours. As you approach Marrakech the traffic begins to increase and becomes hectic and chaotic - or at least, so it seemed to us after the desert tracks and the beach. We checked into Relais de Marrakech campsite. That evening we took a taxi into Gema el Fna to enjoy some night entertainment and ate at one of the open air stalls. It was Very busy and hectic - the desert nights were so quiet and peaceful.

We spent the next day in the medina.

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We visited the excellent Maison de Photographie which exhibited photos of Morocco taken between 1870 and 1950. It seems that it was eaier then to take photos of Moroccans back then than it is now.

Traditional and conservative Moroccans are generally not keen to be photographed. It is something to do with the belief that each time you take a photo of someone, you take away part of their spirit. The beliefs and traditions of the locals must always be respected and, if you ask, some will actually allow you to photograph them - you just need to muster up the courage to ask. However it seems that in Marrakech everything is for sale, including spirits ... if you take a photo of someone without asking they will demand 100Dh - about £10. Performers will even stop mid act to demand payment, sometimes in quite an aggressive and intimidating way. Now I accept that everyone has to feed their kids, but £10 a pop is on the expensive side, especially in a country where the average daily income is 70Dh. Now here is a tip: if you want to take photos of the activities in el Fna head for one of the cafes or restaurants with terraces overlooking the square. The drinks are a little expensive but you have an excellent platform from where to take photos hassle free - a big lens helps.

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There were loads of these bags in Marrakech. How on earth did they get here?????

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Below are a couple of tourists being shaken down after having allegedly taken photos of locals. We saw the whole story unfold ...

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