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New Colorado owner!

CaptainCrack

New Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2021
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great_britain
Hey guys!

New owner here, just picked up a nice 1999 Colorado VX (Prado) LWB with the 1KZ non intercooler, automatic. Absolutely loving it so far!

Few issues need addressing, a couple small cases of rust, namely one bit on the chassis and another in the upper wheel arch (seemingly corresponding to the mounting positions of the rear seats?).

Apart from welding, my main things to address are a non functioning rear diff locker, haven't started properly diagnosing yet so hard to say where the fault lies, and the dreaded tailgate rattle. The aerial is also stuck in the extended position and the dash buttons don't seem to do anything.

On the plus side, the engine seems sweet, the bodywork and paint are in great condition, the gearbox seems good and the dash computer works perfectly! Also has a bullbar of unknown origin that I've fitted some nice Hella spots to which I still need to wire up.

It also came with all matching tyres which seems to be a real hard find in the UK market!

lc.jpg
 
Welcome CC. Looks good and stands well. You well may find the rear diff lock actuator may be well corroded like most of that vintage. The rattling tailgate can usually be cured with the insertion of an appropriate washer on the bottom hinge. Aerial I can't help you with apart from testing if there is a current going to it. It should go up when the radio is on and down when the CD/cassette is selected.
These are the kind of trucks that you constantly want to improve, ( ask me how I know).
 
Thats a smart looking truck there Captain. I did the washer remedy that Andy suggested, but that was 6 years ago, and I've since replaced the upper hinge with a new genuine part, the pin in the old one was very sloppy to be honest. Might be worth spending the 40 quid..

Do the rust on the underside now.. and I mean now.. of you intend on keeping it. I got lucky and caught my rear chassis rust in time, but it's not cheap.

That bullbar looks to be a genuine part, I've seen others like it, properly moulded to the shape of the lights. I've often toyed with the idea of adding one, but always held off with the notion of putting a hidden winch mount on instead... which hasn't happened!!

Best of good luck with it
 
Luckily I was a sheet metal fabricator for 10 years and the family still owns the business so repairing the rust shouldn't be an issue, fortunately the rust is in its infancy and should be pretty easy to nip in the bud!

I figured I'm gonna just replace the hinge on the door, I'd rather just fix it than bodge it, especially because my upper hinge feels extremely loose and I'd need a LOT of packing to mitigate the top hinge. Best place to find a hinge on the cheap? I've messaged a few people breaking on eBay but I fear one of a used car may suffer from the same issue.

I wasn't sold on the bullbar initially but I've kind of learned to like it, and the spotlights really helped it along too!
 
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Thanks for the welcome! My top hinge in the tailgate is extremely loose, to the point that washers don't seem to help all that much so I'll either 3D print a chunky packer, or I'll just find a new hinge from a breaker or something to be honest. As for the diff lock, I can't hear the actuator trying to go but I do need to change the pinion oil seal anyway so I'll take the actuator off whilst I'm doing that and replacing the diff oil and see if it's just seized up, as I suspect the previous owner hadn't touched it and it's probably just corroded solid!

Not too sure what's going on with the aerial either to be honest, it has been fitted with an aftermarket radio so I'm wondering if that's the culprit, however it does have antenna control in its menus and changing that doesn't seem to do anything so I'm not really sure.
 
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I bought it from these on fleabay 2 years ago and naturally, like everything, it's gone up. It was 37 British moneys when I got one.. 55 brexit pounds now
 
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Blimey £22 postage too! Think I'll just spend a bit more and get it ordered at a local dealer or something, provided they don't ask a silly amount! That or order from a breaking one.
 
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Nice truck, as Bob says get the rust sorted now if you intend on keeping it for several, or more years.
Mine was excellent underneath but still got it professionally rust proofed, inside and outside of the chassis and sills and inside the doors and wings.
 
Yeah once I've got the welding done I'm gonna strip all the old underseal off to see what that's hiding and then go from scratch. Touch wood the sills, doors and wings all look pretty tidy.
 
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Hi - just checking that you know the transfer case needs to be in low range before the rear difflock can be engaged. Unfortunately, many owners report the actuators get badly corroded and the casings often break when being removed. Good luck.
 
Hi - just checking that you know the transfer case needs to be in low range before the rear difflock can be engaged. Unfortunately, many owners report the actuators get badly corroded and the casings often break when being removed. Good luck.
Yep I am aware, I’ve tried just about every suggestion too. By the sounds of it the motor just isn’t doing anything at all which leads me to believe it’s either a dodgy motor or a fault somewhere in the wiring.
 
With the hinges could you drill them out and put in some grade 8 or 13 bolts or some bar and hammer the ends over
 
I could to be fair, I’ve got some coming from somebody breaking one so I’ll just pinch the bottom one which likely has less wear and pop it on there. If that doesn’t work I’ll just repair the existing ones.
 
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With the hinges could you drill them out and put in some grade 8 or 13 bolts or some bar and hammer the ends over


Thats what I intend to do with the hinge I took off. I just needed a quick swap at the time ahead of a France trip
 
Oh another thing my Cruiser has is quite noisy power steering, I suspect I've got a leak somewhere as a top up of fluid and a good bleed sorted it for a couple days but now its back, need to check my lines.
 
71AppS4UduL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

I had the very same, despite a full flush and new ATF. This sorted it right out..
 
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Hello fellow Cruisers!! Having joined the elite brotherhood of Land Cruisers, recently buying an '02 Colorado in better than hoped for condition to take me shooting and fishing. It has given me great pleasure since the Spring. I am about to replace one of the batteries as it is just about at the end of its life, and with the autumn/winter coming upon us, I have decided to change it now.
My question to the electrical wizards out there, is when I replace it, the one on the drivers side,(right hand drive), do I lose all the data, radio settings, etc., or does the second battery provide that link whilst I am replacing the defunct battery??
All suggestions gratefully received. Couldn't find much on YouTube!!
 
Welcome Paul, the age old question when 2 batteries are fitted. The answer, replace both, as the old one will drag the new one down.
 
Welcome too Paul. Since not all Collies have 2 batteries I'd try it with just your best battery. my mate's Collie down the village ( 2000 year) looks like its never had 2 batteries and it always starts. An 80 series with a 4.2 litre will easily start with one battery when converted to 12V starter. My 100 series starts on one battery all the time as the other battery has been split off to be a leisure battery.
Just a thought.
 
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