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Paul's 80 photo thread
- Thread starter pberrey
- Start date
That beats me after a good vindaloo 
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- Feb 2, 2013
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Hi pberrey i seriously need to do this myself and so have spent a good few hours reading up on the best products to use . Trusting boat forums over most other stuff on the web as salt water is a killer and boats can't avoid it , they seem to think Fertan rust converter is the best around and as i've never heard of it i thought it worth a mention .
I must say I'm impressed with my little Wolf compressor. It has two air outlets one of which runs at the full 120psi output and the other which can be regulated down. I sprayed at about 45psi which was more than enough. Its only got a 25 litre air tank but at 9.5cfm it fills it back up in only a few seconds. I suspect its actually more powerful than my 100+ litre compressor and it was a steal at £90 because it was their showroom display model.
Hi Shayne, I've only used POR-15 and Hammerite. POR is very impressive and likes to be applied in damp UK conditions but it was very nasty to use. I did my TD5 110 truck cab with it that had worked for a mining company and whilst it did a great job i wouldn't use it again. I'd stay away from waxoyl type products as well.
As you can see Hammerite is fine and readily available so you can put a coat on it every couple of years for £20 in half an hour. It doesn't need top coating (por15 does) and gives you an original finish if you use satin black. I couldn't have used a worse technique treating the spray gun like a jet wash but it still comes out looking like new.
Dinitrol do excellent clear waxes for internal cavities and the like.
Paul.
I will be drinking beer at Lincomb next year once all the jobs are out of the wayWow, transformation city Paul, nice work
I've noticed a few times that my LC's temperature has climbed towards the red. It has never overheated but given its had a new radiator, thermostat and coolant flush there can't be a lot wrong with it. One potential cause is the viscous fan which I was able to confirm is just wind milling the last time it started to get warm (fast dual carriageway straight onto a green lane). There are some threads which talk about this but what I did was remove the batteries, battery boxes and loosen the fan shroud and remove the fan itself. You then split the fan from the viscous clutch unit and separate it into its two halves. I then added some 10,000cst silicon fluid which I bought from a model shop where it is used in car LSDs apparently. I believe the factory manual says add 2x18ml tubes from empty. Now mine had more than I expected but I still added about 30-40ml to what was in there and reassembled. Worst case is that it will be being driven more than it should but at least that will address the cooling issue!
Evening all. Ive been offline for a while but I'm starting to get back on track now as you may have seen with by BEB photos. Ive also made a plywood storage unit around some plastic crates and my Mobicool 12v fridge. Pictures to follow shortly.
Welcome back PB 
I changed the big end bearings as preventative maintenance at 179,000 miles. Ive no idea of their history but i suspect they have been changed. I used Milner big end bearings and Toyota conrod bolts.
Bearing on cylinder number four was the worst:
I also changed the oil an fuel filters whilst i was at it:
Bearing on cylinder number four was the worst:
I also changed the oil an fuel filters whilst i was at it:
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And so onto my storage system build. Somehow i always knew that would be too grand a title as my plan was to base it around readily available storage crates. The type that are used for office moves.
Got wood. Two 2.44x1.2x14mm plywood sheets and a bunch of fixings from Wickes:
First cut:
Taking shape:
Got wood. Two 2.44x1.2x14mm plywood sheets and a bunch of fixings from Wickes:
First cut:
Taking shape:
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