Porous rear diff???

chadr Jul 13, 2019

  1. chadr

    chadr Well-Known Member I am in england

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    I've noticed an oil stain on the back of the rear diff - it spreads around most of the rear side (above and around the filler) and covers the bottom of the diff - hopefully pics will show what I mean...and it might just be leaking from the filler.:think:

    I've tried to check the oil level but am struggling to get the filler off - I really need a 6 sided 23mm socket to prevent rounding it, as the standard socket I have just slips. :crazy:



    The rear diff and components were bone dry when I had the Crown rust protection applied and now that it has dried off, apart from this area, the rest of the surroundings are still dry.

     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2019
  2. Higgy

    Higgy Well-Known Member Supporter I am in denmark

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    The Diff on my old Colorado was so thin oil would seep through the Metal, Bugger to weld up, My 120 is not much better ... But the 30yr Old 80 is still as new.....The filler and Drain plugs can be a pain, Not enough recess for the Socket... Crap design that one..
     
  3. Shayne

    Shayne Well-Known Member Guru

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    0D994DB0-77E7-4691-A7AD-EA24521F0ADB.jpeg I ground off the end of my 24mm deep socket for diff plug
     
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  4. diggerdave

    diggerdave Well-Known Member

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    Do yourself a favour and order a new filler plug.

    Your leak looks a little bit like it's coming from the plug and might point to a dodgy sealing washer, but it'll be a good idea to get a new plug anyway if the original is getting rounded off.

    If the diff has become porous, you may be able to get someone to weld a plate over it. My garage called in a favour from a welding specialist, who put a stainless steel plate over the bottom and was able to do it in situ which saved me some money. Fantastic upgrade for off-roading as well as curing my porous diff.
     
  5. chadr

    chadr Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Thanks for the responses guys - much appreciated. :thumbup:

    I'll order a new filler plug and washer and get them replaced, along with checking the level.

    I suppose it's a case of wait and see, once that's been done. :shifty:
     
  6. fbnss

    fbnss Well-Known Member Supporter I am in england

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    I got a 23 and 24 6 sided if you need it
     
  7. chadr

    chadr Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Thanks Nick - I'll drop you a line tomorrow mate. Cheers.
     
  8. fbnss

    fbnss Well-Known Member Supporter I am in england

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    No probs. Just got my shopping to do in morning but free after that
     
  9. MarkW

    MarkW Well-Known Member I am in morocco

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    My deep 24mm socket from Halfords fits perfectly no grinding required
     
  10. Shayne

    Shayne Well-Known Member Guru

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    Mines a Halford pro socket and it had a small bevel which gave little purchase on such a shallow bolt head when it was rusted in and ruined , grinding the bevel off let me hammer it on to grip the base of the hex head .
     
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  11. diggerdave

    diggerdave Well-Known Member

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    Grinding down a socket is one of those amazingly helpful tips... I've never needed to with mine, but wouldn't hesitate to do it for a second if my plug was getting too rounded. I agree that these are a slightly weak design.
     
  12. Towpack

    Towpack Well-Known Member Supporter I am in england

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    I always put a couple of turns of PTFE plumbers tape round the threads of filler and drain plugs. Virtually guarantees no leaks.
     
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  13. chadr

    chadr Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Update.

    Finally got around to removing the filler and drain plugs*. Only had about 300ml of oil in the diff - WTF!! :shock:

    Anyway, replaced both drain and filler plugs with new items and used PTFE as suggested. Filled up to filler level (approx 2l?) with oil and then degreased the previous leaks and gave the diff a good wipe over.

    Had some errands to run, so after about 12 miles and a couple of hours, this is the state of the diff;



    I think it's safe to say that I have a porous diff :thumbdown::thumbdown::crazy:

    * Thanks Nick for the lending the socket and bar - even though I didn't need it in the end. :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2019
    Higgy and fbnss like this.
  14. Higgy

    Higgy Well-Known Member Supporter I am in denmark

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    Its exactly how mine was, I did manage to weld it up but it was hard work.. The steel is so thin. Trying to grind back to get something to weld to, And the Ingress of oil doesnt help.... Patience and the help of CT1 or Tiger seal. Its a shame you cant buy the Diff bowl . Cut the old one out and weld in the new Like LandRover... I did look into it But it was a No No! from Toyota...If you do go down the CT1 or tiger seal Route. It really has to be completely clean of any Oil....
     
  15. Finiterex

    Finiterex Member I am in uk

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    Buy a new rear axle casing from Milners.... If you're gonna keep the truck long term that is

    received_2236879096381343.jpeg
     
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  16. chadr

    chadr Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Thanks, that is certainly one option.
    I'm going on holiday end of next week, (not driving), so will put all the truck issues on hold until I get back and will do some research in the meantime.

    Thanks for the feedback
     
  17. Finiterex

    Finiterex Member I am in uk

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    It's worth pulling the axle out and givit it a proper check. Looking at your photos I wouldn't be surprised if spring seats and top arm mounts aren't worse for wear too.
     
  18. Shayne

    Shayne Well-Known Member Guru

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    You can't break what's already broken so get one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-preparation-wheel-115mm/83915?tc=UT4&ds_kid=92700022885054691&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1248184&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuem_oMvE4wIVgrHtCh13JAMGEAQYCCABEgJf1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds for your grinder and you will be looking at shiny new metal in 5 minutes without being overly aggresive so you can see whats what before making any decisions , that done maybe a blob of this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/312224432964 will buy you some time .
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2019
  19. Towpack

    Towpack Well-Known Member Supporter I am in england

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    No idea how much that replacement axle casing is and it’s certainly a lot of extra work but it has to be a preferred option. With the metal so thin and pin holed that it weeps oil, any repair including welding will be a temporary one.
    Externally the spring seats and, particularly, the control arm turrets can look all fine and dandy when painted up but they corrode from the inside out.
     
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  20. Trevor

    Trevor Well-Known Member Supporter Promoted Company I am in england

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    I've done a couple of these, new axle casing and 2 inner axle oil seals, one days labour and everything else should swap over. The only real tricky bit is if the difflock actuator will come out without an issue. I would probably budget for a new set of diff studs and nuts to be on the safe side.
     
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