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Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

I'm throwing this into the pot just because anything is better than nothing and having used Ronseal diamond hard on kitchen worktops made from B&Q 5 pack 3x2 probably more than 10 years ago and their diamond hard floor varnish on bathroom bare floorboards which has lasted well just as long I'm inclined to believe the 15 year claim .

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It doesn't have to cost a packet to protect your pride and joy .

She will never grow tired of telling me off for dropping car parts and paint cans etc on here .

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Link didn't work for me Shayne, however i found their site and noticed Ronseal make direct to metal paint with a 15 year guarantee which i hadn't realised before, might be of interest to some of our flock.
Was that what you wanted to link to?
 
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Only one thing about the Ronseal paint in Shayne's link, says its water based where Hammerite (don't know about Lidl's, but tehir stuff is usually pretty good) is apparently still solvent based.

Seeing how hopeless car paints are since going over to water based, i'd probably still prefer old school solvent stuff, as a bonus you can relive your glue sniffing youth :)
 
Yep, tried TonyC's Lidl paint as a trial on a wrought iron garden gate a few years back, dirt chap and still as good as the day I did it, with that all important prep as we all go on about.
Still plenty of Hammerite in garage to use up first.
Solvent based for me too Juddian, sniff, sniff !
 
I'm sure you all know I'd opt for old school first but - the proof is in the pudding and i'm staring at my own proof right here , now the boss is up and telling me both the bathroom floor and worktop are closer to 20 years than 10 .

Its all about urethanes and it seems to me ronseal has cracked it .
 
Any thoughts on what is good to slosh around inside the chassis that won't catch fire when you inevitably have to weld it again? I used Dinotrol Cavity Wax in my cills, but I'm pretty sure it caught fire when I had to weld them last year. At least there was smokey stuff for quite a while after, which I didn't trust not to set fire to the inside of the car and had to sit outside and watch dissapate. Is the lanolin stuff much use in a box section? Assume it's less likely to wash away at least, but will probably be sat under a couple of inches of wet mud if my chassis is anything to go by.

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If you blew chain lube or thick gear oil in there, would that be as bad a firestarter, remember the film?
 
Good old Hammerite does it for me.

Seems Hammerite is getting in on the water based act , did they ever suggest their oil based might last 12 years ?


I'm as dubious as you but the wrong paint is going to be a bugger to remove once its on .
 
:lol: As i said earlier in the thread its the Ronseal diamond hard varnish that makes no such claims i used myself well over a decade ago that has me wondering if oil based has been surpassed .

To damage that water based varnish you have to hit it hard enough to damage the wood beneath and a hot chip pan straight off the gas won't smudge it .
 
The jury is still out by the way so i will post this up as well All Surface Enamel Oil Base - Sherwin-Williams - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] .

And because I've been slowly but surely cleaning my engine with a toothbrush size wire brush and whatever products come to hand just to kill a few hours in distraction while waiting for news i probably don't want I've spent many late hours idly researching the vague notion that i should paint it .

As yet good old fashioned hammerite is winning that race .

Who killed the internet ? search very specifically for paddy elicious o'brians poisonous urethane metallic gin and it will show me bobs chalk paint as the closest match :wtf:
 
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Sounds like a plan, but how will Hammerite fare with the heat aspect on an engine, as opposed to 'proper' heat proof/resistant ones specifically for that ?
 
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