Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

[Shayne]

Our engines don't get hot enough to cure most vht paint , I took in too much info to be specific but i read somewhere hammerite is good to 600 whatever i think .



Ed,
I can guarantee Smooth Hammerite is the best.
I have tried & tested EVERYTHING & it comes out top every time. It also goes on good & thick.
Make sure you warm the can up in hot water for 20 minutes before spraying.........makes a lot of difference.
The secret with any paint is the preparation so as long as the metal is good & clean, it will last at least 10 years.
I have done every 1300 engine I gave owned with it including the current one.
Funny as it is, the Hammerite Factory is in the village I live in too !
Pete F

 

[Tractionman]

Yep, Smooth Hammerite every time on jobs, fail to see any advantage with hammered other than it looks 'pretty' if you like that sort of thing.
Good to know it can manage heat, as there are invariably areas that are so hot you could fry an egg (try touching after a run), and yes, prep is everything, as per the continual important reference to that throughout this thread
Get down that factory for some free samples for advertising !

 

[Shayne]

Thats a copy and paste from yankyland hence its signed Pete F whoever he might be .

 

[Tractionman]

Haha, that good old copy and paste, I wondered what all that s**t was !
Are Ed and Pete F not members then ? lol.

 

[Shayne]

Its perhaps just as well they are not or they would be telling us about their petrol v12 daily drivers they run at a fiver a week in fuel .

Hammerite is winning the engine paint war for me because i have no intention of removing the engine and i've surprised myself what can be achieved with a tiny wire brush and a little effort .I'm not finished yet but its not looking bad for a 10 year old 4.2 even if it is 25 years old .

 

[Shayne]

Food for thought if your thinking of putting paint under the bonnet shared just because it occurred to me while inspecting the results of testing different old paints i have in the shed on her stainless exhaust where it bolts to the turbo , none have melted or burned yet including u-pol powercan acid etch primer , but she's only done about 30 miles .

But then how hot does your engine actually get if coolant thermostat is set about 80 degrees and if engine oil gets past say 250 degrees shes about ready to blow ?

 

[Shayne]

Here's a handy home made tool stolen from a jeep forum

 

[Shayne]

Another sleepless night has me asking what does we think of this Rust Bullet Automotive rust inhibitive coating and primer - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Tractionman]

Snake oil with added aluminium ? I'll stick to Hammerite, no more sleepless nights !

 

[Shayne]

The more I research the more I'm inclined to agree with you , we can't stop rust we can only manage it and to do that we need to be able to see it .

Hammerite or supermarket paint if it goes on smooth trouble spots will show on annual inspection and you won't need a jackhammer to remove the armour that hides rust in order to treat it .

Hammerite's marketing of that water based ultima is fantastic but go to Amazon or any similar website and read customer reviews in the order of lowest to highest rating and it would seem you might be better off giving the whole frame a squirt of WD-40 once a year .

 

[Rob Cowell]

Sort of replying to my own question but I stumbled on this. There was a class action in the US about Tacoma chassis dissolving. Toyota replaced a number of vehicle's chassis under recall, and also rolled out a set of chassis plugs to fill up (some) of the holes.

Further replying to my own post. Got my new 150 yesterday and it has these plugs fitted into the large holes on the outward facing vertical sides of the rear chassis rails. Still plenty of holes in the chassis but nothing more than 10mm. Pumped 4 cans of Dinitrol Cavity wax into the rear of the chassis and the sills. Brushed on Lanoguard grease everywhere my 120 rusted hoping it clings on for longer given the experience I've seen reported here with the stuff, and sprayed on Lanoguard everywhere else. Still need to drill a hole at the rear of each sill to get cavity wax in there, where the sills join the rear arch and experience tells me they will rot and are a pain to get in to weld.

 

[karl2000]

Congrats on the new motor! Please let us know what you think of it!

Don't we all wish everyone had done that on day 1......

 

[Rob Cowell]

Congrats on the new motor! Please let us know what you think of it!

Only done 10 miles home from the dealer so far. Feels a bit more awkward to judge the size because the bonnet is higher, but I'm sure that's just being unfamiliar with it. Doesn't feel as chuckable as my 120, but that could be familiarity as well. Does feel a step up in comfort and ride quality on the road, but not a huge leap. I've got the poverty spec Active, it feels modern and gadety to me but probably very basic compared to most modern cars. I've never had a reversing camera or a DAB radio before! 70% of the handbook seems to apply to buttons I don't have. It was bought unseen because the nearest demonstrator was 200 miles away in Grantham. The 3rd row of seats fold away very neatly but they eat boot floor depth. In hindsight I should have got a 5 seater for all the use I'll get out of them. Already Googling the best way to get rid of them and put a different floor in. But it's completely rust free, and because my kids haven't sat in it yet, lovely and clean!

Will be into France and Switzerland and maybe Italy in it next month. And will get a towbar on it when I'm back. Will be a more useful comparison then. Will try and keep the 120 going for farm work in an attempt to keep this one nice for a few years.

 

[Dave]

I bought a new Jimny and plan on keeping it for a long time. Dumped gallons if Dinitrol in and over it - chassis, doors, sills, bonnet, scuttle, pillars, tailgate, cross members. 6 months later and it still stinks to high heaven. On a hot day it knocks you bandy when you open the door.

 

[Shayne]

Way i see it is if it can't get wet it can't rust .

And painting over rust never works for long because rust retains moisture .

Encapsulate is just a fancy word for isolate - from water .

​

 

[Rob Cowell]

I bought a new Jimny and plan on keeping it for a long time. Dumped gallons if Dinitrol in and over it - chassis, doors, sills, bonnet, scuttle, pillars, tailgate, cross members. 6 months later and it still stinks to high heaven. On a hot day it knocks you bandy when you open the door.

Is that a new, new Jimny. A commercial one?

I'd have one if you could ever pay RRP rather than a few grand over. Neighbour just got a new commercial and it's very nice but £25K for a car that is supposed to retail for under £20K I'm not doing. That said the craziness has pushed all the prices up. My 2009 Jimny is still worth pretty much what I paid for it, 7 years later. Hopefully that will last until the electric ones get here.

 

[Dave]

Yes, a new commercial Jimny. I got it last september for list price (in Sweden).

 

[Spike]

Morning all, very interesting reading, I hope you dont mind me giving my twopence worth, my 100 had underseal from way before my ownership, it had started to look a bit worn, what to do? I did think about a diy job, I did my old Disco 2 with Bilt Hamber and thought I had done a reasonable job, I have access to a ramp, but looking under the 100 and the vast amount of nooks and crannies and very hard to reach places I decided on a professional job, looked at Krown and before n after, but in the end went with a company called CSK, they are about an 40 minutes south of Bedford, they are a land-rover specialists, however not exclusive, they are also on the Dinitrol approved list, anyway I booked her in and duly arrived on the Saturday morning, first thing that strikes you is the place is spotless, looks more like a showroom than a garage, very nice people to deal with, (I got them to change rear pinion seal as t had a slight weep whilst up on the ramp) and very very thorough, not ready to collect until late Wednesday afternoon, just over £700 including VAT, I think the debate about weather to do it or not will carry on, personally im glad its done, hope the following pictures help and are of interest.

 

[Spike]

I have tried to add the pictures in some sort of chronological order not very successfully, anyway pictures 4,5 and 6 are after a week and the high gloss has settled down bit!!!

 

[Shayne]

The debate over paying someone to do it is more about how can you be sure the metal was wire brush clean before it was painted . Coating wise anything is better than nothing and Dinitrol is held in high regard by most so if your satisfied that the preparation was done and happy with the result then its 700 well spent