Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

SCV Replacement

mercedeschris

New Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2021
Messages
15
Country Flag
uk
Hi all
Anybody replaced the above on a J120 LC. I have cutting out issues mainly at idle at traffic lights etc. Usually restarts straightaway, but sometimes it takes a few attempts to restart?
I had a Mercedes ML420 a few years ago with a very similar fault and it was Mercedes equivalent part to SCV at fault.
looking at prices they are only £40 for a Denso replacement on Flea Bay. (allegedly genuine) Seems too cheap to me??
 
Lots of info from members who have had problems, changed scv, and suppliers, look back though 120 threads, sometimes included with injectors.
 
Take a look at this thread, lots of useful info. Make sure you get the correct one for you 120, there are two versions...

 
The year of yours would help. There is a long and a short version, and the majority available now are the long ones, which everyone seems to use. If you get the genuine from R/T it will be the long version.
Check out the vids by Fourby4diesel on YouTube who is considered among the best.
You could also contact TonyC on tlocuk forum, a real expert on 120s.
 
Hi all

Thanks for all your useful advise. I bought an SCV and fitted it today (now weathers warmed up) I have to say the difference is unbelievable. The first thing I noticed was how much quieter the engine was, I did have a bit of "diesel knock" which I thought was normal for a 120 LC. My every day car is an old 2005 Merc S320Cdi with 375k miles which is silent in comparison. But now the LC runs spot on. I've just done 50 miles with no cutting out. It would have cut out a dozen times in that distance previously.
It's a bit difficult to fit as it's low down in NS engine bay. I took NSF wheel off and removed the brake pipe mountings from the chassis to give me a little more room and did the job though the wheel housing. Only took 40 mins.......Happy days thanks again.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
I may have a SCV problem as a code came up when I put my scanner on my 120, can't remember the code as it was a few weeks ago but I haven't had any lights come on on the dash or loss of power eg limp mode. I notice even though my 120 was first registered 1/6/2005 I appear to have the red and green SCV's. Do I just replace them or is it possible to fit the long SCV or am I getting my wirers crossed and just need to replace like for like? I will have a look again tonight to see exactly what the code was, it said something about low fuel pressure when I looked the code up last time.
Also how can I find out my vehicles exact build date?
 
HI Bones. If you've got a low fuel pressure code, check for physical leaks.

Also look at the live data and see what the fuel pressure is, and how the actual is following the target when you rev it up a bit.

As far as I know, if you have red and green SCV's, you replace them with the same.

If you have the short SCV (not red+green), replace it with the long one.

The short SCV's are known to be a bit of an issue, not sure about the red + green ones tbh!
 
Bones, as per Karl above.
2 (or 3) different animals here, you obviously have a red and a green scv, not to be confused with the long (or short) scv. You have a pair, whereas the the long which replaces the short one is a single item. Sorry if Im stating the obvious.
Yes, the red and green can play up, if you look back through threads on the scv, both variations,
you will find some good informed write ups by TONYC11
 
Handy tip that Bones about going in from the side after removing the wheel.

If anyone needs to swap the alternator, same, its much easier going in from the offside after removing the wheel.
 
I don't have any visible leaks, nothing obvious. As for live data I'm not sure how to work my Snap-on machine to look at that and may have to seek out a diesel specialist here on the island to see what can be done. Question is should I just replace the scv's anyway as I am sure I had heard they are a serviceable part?
 
Personally I'd replace them - when they fail they cause engine stalls, often at the most inconvenient times!
 
When you replace them bones, be scrupiously clean. Thoroughly clean the surrounding areas
before starting work, and take care when handling. You don't want any sh/t in there or damage to o rings, which will cause you further problems.
 
Super! thanks guys. I'll get some ordered in the week from Rough trax .
 
Back
Top