Put a new transfer case in yesterday. All went well but the CDL light wouldn't come on. Now I have been there before so I knew what to look for. It fires and locks but as the light doesn't come on, the front and rear lockers won't fire up. No worries I have loads of spare detent switches and a 27mm socket. I might even be able to clean it up and get it going. Now out of the three switches, which is the CDL detector? Hmmm, ahhh, let me see now ...
BOLLOCKS.
Of course it's the one right at the front of the case tight up against the tunnel. Not a prayer in Hades of getting that out. Well I wasn't going to take the effin box out again,. No Sir. I thought about cutting a hole in the floor. No. I bent a spanner to try and loosen it. Nah. So I lay on my back for half an hour cursing, then came up with this.
I dropped the cross member and front prop, drained the oil and unbolted the whole front extension housing. Only one bolt put up a fight so I hit it with a 6 sided socket and the Milwaukee.
Sorted.
Came apart easily. No oil in there either so it clearly drains well. Swapped the switch over and popped it back on.
Now, for those contemplating this to change a front seal, here's a couple of tips. Lock the CDL first. It stops the locking clutch from dropping down. You can lock it later but this is better. When putting it back, you have to get the clutch fork shaft to line up with the hole in the end of the housing AND get the detent ball past the end of the shaft too. This requires patience and a little wiggling. Do not hit it. If it won't go on, don't panic. Just keep wiggling. Try locking and unlocking the CDL too. You will have to turn the companion flange to line up the gear on the output shaft with the locking clutch of course but what you may find is that the housing doesn't quite go on by about 5mm. Wiggle and jiggle and you will be rewarded. Put all the bolts in and work round them in a pattern to pull it on square. Don't forget a bit of RTV sealant too.
All good. Working perfectly. Oh and put the oil back in too!!
BOLLOCKS.
Of course it's the one right at the front of the case tight up against the tunnel. Not a prayer in Hades of getting that out. Well I wasn't going to take the effin box out again,. No Sir. I thought about cutting a hole in the floor. No. I bent a spanner to try and loosen it. Nah. So I lay on my back for half an hour cursing, then came up with this.
I dropped the cross member and front prop, drained the oil and unbolted the whole front extension housing. Only one bolt put up a fight so I hit it with a 6 sided socket and the Milwaukee.
Sorted.
Came apart easily. No oil in there either so it clearly drains well. Swapped the switch over and popped it back on.
Now, for those contemplating this to change a front seal, here's a couple of tips. Lock the CDL first. It stops the locking clutch from dropping down. You can lock it later but this is better. When putting it back, you have to get the clutch fork shaft to line up with the hole in the end of the housing AND get the detent ball past the end of the shaft too. This requires patience and a little wiggling. Do not hit it. If it won't go on, don't panic. Just keep wiggling. Try locking and unlocking the CDL too. You will have to turn the companion flange to line up the gear on the output shaft with the locking clutch of course but what you may find is that the housing doesn't quite go on by about 5mm. Wiggle and jiggle and you will be rewarded. Put all the bolts in and work round them in a pattern to pull it on square. Don't forget a bit of RTV sealant too.
All good. Working perfectly. Oh and put the oil back in too!!
