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strang things afoot with my 98 colorado

You can stop the egress working by blocking the vacuum pipe that operates it. no plate needed.
 
still waiting for my workshop manual to arrive stumog don't really know what I'm looking for :confused:.
took her out tonight for a 40 mile trip down the country lanes think its getting worse under acceleration from say 20 mph up hills and on the flat around 2500 revs its cutting out at 30 mph for a split second and then a split second and so on until it gets to round 40 mph :confused: but you can feel the auto box going down a gear then back up a gear at the same time as it looses power :confused:
 
Sounds fuel related but i would would remove the turbo to throttle body pipe and have a look in here

DSCN5738copy.jpg

It's just 4 nuts and a clip to remove and the rubber gasket can be reused .

2500 revs is about when your turbo gets excited and if the throttle butterfly is jamming due to egr crap it might be confusing the ecu and effect fuel delivery . A simple thing to rule out that costs nothing accept maybe half hour of your time .
 
cheers shayne :thumbup:
sounds like a plan:icon-idea: I've got the morning to get the tools out and investigate .
as the saying goes a picture is worth a thousand words :thumbup:
 
A few of us have removed the large butterfly wings altogether but i guess you should get it running right before altering anything .
 
totally agree with you there shayne ,getting it running right then i have a base line to work from ,just going through the egr threads
 
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The plate goes between the exhaust manifold and the chrome pipe shown here
DSCN5767.jpg

Not much room to get at it at the back of the engine and a rounded nut meant i had to take the lot off to get it undone . I think it's only 10 or 12mm nuts and if i knew then what i know now i would probably have used a brake pipe spanner for my first attempt .
 
am i right in thinking that once the blanking plate is fitted you can discard the chrome pipe shayne?.
thanks for the link beau, nice truck by the way
 
I left everything in place because i didn't want to mess with the electrics , besides left alone everything looks factory spec which might be a good thing in the long run given they invent an emissions law every time someone farts .

Beau removed more , you might find it on the oil cooler link he posted ?
 
I removed my pipe all together, and experienced no fault electric wise. I just blocked the vacuum pipes that were left hanging about.

I found it creates a lot more space with it gone, plus it's dead weight being there serving no purpose. If you do remove it like this you'll need couple spacers to put on the bolts as the stud isn't threaded the entire way. You'll see what I mean once you remove it.
 
hi guys removed the pipe as instructed i also cleaned the air filter with the air blower, took her out for a run she picked up a bit better but still had the same problem has above pared up went to an appointment drove her home and she seemed a lot better well i would say sorted (fingers crossed) I've drove her for 2 more hours today and all seems well :dance:
 
That shows its been driven by grandma for a while so some injector cleaner in the fuel tank should give you some improvement too :thumbup:
 
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/en...ves/wynns-formula-gold-diesel-treatment-500ml

I put bottle in a full tank to start with because crap has to go somewhere so i wanted it to happen slowly , now i just chuck a bottle in whenever it crosses my mind to buy one without looking at the fuel gauge .

I can't say it ever made a noticeable difference to my truck but it definitely breathed new life into an old transit tipper i used to have .
 
just a thought guys I've discovered i have a fuel leak around the tank area ,would a fuel leak cause the problem above ?
thought the problem was solved but its back
 
Could be water in the tank , I assume if fuel can get out water can get in ?

Regardless the tank is an obvious problem to fix so I would do that first and then worry about the running problems if they are still there .
 
i filled the tank up after putting the wynns additive in reversed her up the drive so she was slopping down the drive came out around an hour later big pool of derv on the floor .
just hoping its not the tank that has rusted through
 
That would be a forum first I think , a rusty filler pipe on the other hand has been mentioned a few times .
 
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Well fuel coming out could also indicate air being drawn in the system like a venturi effect, and having air in the line would cause your pump not to put out as much pressure as it should when calling for max fuel (under load).

A rusty filler neck is a pretty common problem. I doubt the tanks rusted through as the guard does a good job at protecting it, but if you do have to remove it a coat of paint will help extend it's life.
 
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