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strang things afoot with my 98 colorado

cheers guys useful info there.
if it is the filler neck i will see if i can weld (out with the mig)a piece in, same if its the tank .
just thinking about it would the air leak have to be after the tank ? between the tank and the pump
 
That's the most likely suspect for your running problems .
 
if it is the filler neck i will see if i can weld (out with the mig)a piece in, same if its the tank .

Sorry if I'm saying something that you already know, but best to be a bit wary if welding round the tank without taking the diesel out and giving it a good flush with soapy water. It's not so much that you'll set the liquid diesel alight (though that can happen) but diesel vapours can ignite. You might get away with it, but better to be safe than end up with a face like a kebab. As already said, on the top of the tank are the rigid feed pipe and the return pipe, they are steel and do rust, as do the clips on the flexible pipes. If you have a leak on the feed, it will draw in air and if there is more air than the self purge can handle, it will affect running.
 
well found the problem guys the fuel tank fecked and so is the tank guard :angry-screaming:
also found a good bit of rot under the back end I'm bloody gutted
 
I had something similar with my '98 Colorado.

It turned out to be the steel diesel feed pipe coming out of the tank - it had rusted through and was letting air into the line.

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Also, the Sock Filter on the pick-up pipe was choked.

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A new pick-up assembly sorted that and, with new rubber pipes, it starts and runs fine (the sills have rusted and its currently in bits - but that's another story).

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I was fortunate in that my tank was OK.

However my 2001 Amazon had a leaking tank where it had rusted through between the seams. It cost me £848 from Simon Holton.

I feel your pain :wtf:.

Bob.
 
i will be able to give an update on the condition of the pickup pipes and what not when i drop the tank ,but I'm not holding my breath tbh
 
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pickup pipes solid which is a big surprise :fearscream:
tank all plumbed in just the straps to fasten up .
having trouble with the fuel gauge now still reading 2/3rds full as it was when i drained it
 
The fuel gauge doesn't move when you take the key out the ignition. It stays at the last known position. Is this the issue, or is it genuinely stuck?
 
I usually fill the tank when the empty light comes on and the gauge always lies until i have driven a few hundred metres .
 
Davedrlc - I'd be interested to see some photos of your rusted sills. I can see mine have problems but I am yet to remove the plastic (bit scared tbh!!)

J
 
Jake,

The sills have gone on my '98 '95' manual 3.0l diesel (1KZ-TE).

This is what the N/S looked like:


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As the 'inner sill' is actually the side of the floor plus three of the body mounts I elected to replace the whole assembly . . .

This is what turned-up from Toyota . .


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Removing it entails drilling out a few hundred spot welds and then lifting the body off the chassis.


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This is no small undertaking.


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With the Tupperware removed - the outer sill is toast as well. I'll fabricate new panels from 1.6mm sheet steel and weld them in.


DSCN6209_zps4hgmpzk6.jpg


I regret to say that this job has been on the 'back burner' for a few months while I work on my other projects. The heavy towing is being done with the 4.2l 'Amazon', but I must get the Colorado finished and back on the road as I miss it - its much more 'drivable' than the lumbering 100-Series Automatic lump. The trouble is - I've got to do both sides :icon-rolleyes:.

It's dark, cold and wet now and I can't work in the garage (no room), so the truck has to be pulled out, worked on, then pushed back.

One day it will arise - Phoenix -like' from the ashes.

Bob.
(apologies for the hi-jack :oops:).
 
Bob your positivity is awesome! I did see some of these pics on another thread you have, I was hoping my sills will be nowhere near as bad as yours!
How can it possibly go from a passed MOT to that in a year?!? It wasn't hiding behind Waxoyl was is?

I need to be brave and remove the plastic trim to have a proper look. I am hoping a body repair place can fix it. If mine looks like yours though...I think I'll lose the faith..!
 
jakes my sills look ok its the rear body mounts that are on there way out .

swiss cheese comes to mind there Bob ,credit to you for having a go at that pal there is many a folk that would have condemned that to the scrap heap in the sky :clap:.

well finished the tank put the 50 ltrs of fuel back in .primed the pump switched her on she fired up first crack :dance:
can't comment on the fuel gauge yet until the fuel goes down
 
beau i disent realise that the gauge stayed at the last known level :oops:
i will have to wait and see when the fuel goes down .
cheers for everyones comments and help :thumbup:
 
How can it possibly go from a passed MOT to that in a year?!? It wasn't hiding behind Waxoyl was is?

No Waxoyl - just a different MOT Tester :icon-rolleyes:.

One thought the body mounts were sound (which they were) - the other didn't :doh:.

Keep the faith :thumbup: (fortunately I don't need the truck on a daily basis so its become a bit of a 'hobby').

Bob.
 
Right guys took her out for a long not good soon as I get to around 2000 rpm she starts dropping revs and surging if I try to accelerate through it get worse then a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust
Takes for ever to get to 40mph cause I have to accelerate ever so softly
The engine management light came on for a few seconds while accelerating up a small hill
 
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I couldn't begin to guess but it sounds to me like the engine is flooding and spitting out unburnt fuel so if you haven't messed with the pump and turned up the fuel i have to assume air is the problem .

Fuel can't burn without air .

Check your air filter and there's also a couple of sensors that you could clean on the inlet .

Fairy liquid mixed with a drop of water painted over pipes might bubble up to reveal a leak if you hold the revs at 2500 for a few seconds .
 
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