Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Suction Control Valve Removal

You might as well give it a go, but if you look at their reviews online, and feedback in their eBay shop, I doubt they give a fork, They obviously do the one you wanted, just cocked up with their numbers, as listed at £180, so not far off Roughtrax price. You will appreciate the difference in service there. Cheers.
 
Right, part came from Rough Trax on Wednesday and I managed to fit is this afternoon. Getting better at doing these now.... Couple of issues thoughI dropped the metal gasket and it fell down to the bottom of the engine bay, fortunately I was able to spot it with a torch and retrieve it with a long magnet.... phew.

Once all back in, it just would not start, would fire for a split second and then nudda. Thought it might be fuelling as pumping the primer it would fire again. Checked for error codes and had the P1229, cleared that and still no start.

Eventually it threw a B2799 code and doing a bit of searching it's related to the immobiliser, and a thread on IH8MUD indicated that replacing the EFI fuse might help. I swapped it with the 20A from the seat heater, and tried again. Started on the button, and sounds and drives perfectly.

Will monitor over the next few weeks including a few cold starts and runs to see if this is now solved.

I'll return the other one to PF Jones, and lets see of they honour their promise to refund me....

Cheers for the help guys
 
Thanks for the update Tony. Good to know the correct item now supplied by Roughtrax is in and working, despite those few little arse clenching moments. Thanks from us 120 owners about the fuses too, for future reference, very useful.
Get that Jones item off, the quicker you do it the quicker they will pay up.
 
Thanks for the update Tony. That immobiliser code is strange isn't it? Could be a coincidence as it's not exactly related to anything you've touched! How's the battery voltage, seeing as it's been sitting there while you've ordered new scv's etc

I know low voltage can trigger the immobiliser then once it's got that code I think that's it until it's been reset normally by disconnecting the batteries, but I guess in your case that fuse did the same thing? Handy to know!
 
Yeah the batteries got a bit low with the cranking and I needed to use another car to jump start. With covid it has been sitting.

Took it for a longer drive to charge them, but may stick a ctek on them.

I think pulling the fuse reset the immobiliser, which did the trick. As you say its a good reference to have for the future.
 
Hello all, I'm `Pete, based east Sussex, Great thread, brief intro: Oz based Lc 120 GX (4.2 Petrol) for 5 years, 120 2005 lc5 d4d UK based since 2015, great vehicle, except....... thinking I've got the SCV issue you chaps are discussing , thought it was immobiliser, or key-fob , but resetting (drop batt - leads) works, and at idle she cuts out, did not know the SCV replacement was a recall item !!! found that out on this thread, - muchos gracias!! did a tank clean by my mech (who is superb btw) and he found. this on the fuel pickup strainer, tank actually clean, but strainer & fuel system needed a flush, thinking the SCV would have ingested this prior to clean, and any upstream/downstream fuel pressure sensors would pickup poor SCV operation and force engine cut-off at low rpm, no issue with driving it, but cuts out as per other examples on this. thread.

`love the vehicle, so I'll get the SCV replaced asap, and then move on to the ECU or electrics, (which scares me more than any mechanical fix).

I have the Ellery manual from Oz and whilst its a good source of knowledge , it is perhaps , the worst indexed maint manual I have ever come across!!
 

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2021-01-18 at 17.42.00.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2021-01-18 at 17.42.00.jpeg
    100.2 KB · Views: 32
  • WhatsApp Image 2021-01-18 at 17.42.19.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2021-01-18 at 17.42.19.jpeg
    116.8 KB · Views: 30
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Have you had the fuel filter changed after you cleaned the filter in the tank?

Replacing the scv is relatively cheap and easy, so I would give that a go. Price wise PF Jones is the cheapest, and if they had sent me the correct item then they would have got a good rating from me.

Stick your reg into the euro spec checker I linked above, and if yours is a euro 3 then make sure you get the one with the extra cap.

Good luck, let us know how you get on
 
Your under bonnet fuel filter should stop any crap from entering the injection pump , its a good practice and good insurance to change the fuel filter with a good quality filter every year and use a good brand fuel and that the fuel station has high standards to prohibit water entering their fuel tanks , periodically every 6 months I drain a bit of fuel from the tap at the bottom of the filter and let it settle to see if there is any water collected at the water trap at the base rather than wait for the water light to light up on the dash which could be too late up to now I have never found any water , not just to protect the injection pump which includes the scv , but to protect the injectors also , all 120s that use the single type scv whether euro 3 or euro 4 need to have the top cap on the replacement scv valve .
 
Ah, apologies I thought I had updated this thread.

I returned the part after the new one came and I fitted it. Was sent signed for and after they received it I heard nothing, so 10 days later I chased them. Was refunded the following day so result.

Sadly this has not resolved issues and the 120 still goes into limp mode when cold. :rage::rage::rage::rage:

Looking at the codes with techstream it indicates high volume (forget the code now), and looking at injector values and volume these are very off when cold, so I have decided to bite the bullet and change the injectors. Parts are about £500 all in, but I will wait till it's a bit warmer as I don't fancy freezing my arse off in these current temps.

Prob do it in March.

On a side note, since the last service in October , car has done 500miles.... Damn this COVID
 
Thanks for update Tony. Shameful how they carried on to the last, but money in bank now, so fork em, they're the losers overall.
Sorry to hear you're no further forward after going through that shit, so frustrating.
£500 sounds cheap for the injectors, are they from one of our well known sources ? and does that mean you have parked the cruiser up for now ?
Know exactly what you mean with getting nothing done until warmer, I have a list of jobs, almost growing daily, as Karl I think, and probably a lot of guys on here on here. Nothing too serious that cant wait though.
Mines done less miles than that, due to present situation. Cheers mate,
 
It's from this thread
@Rob Cowell recommended this company:

Refurbished injectors, and I'll order the other bits from Simon Holton from Toyota. Maybe £600 actually.

Last ditch attempt at fixing this. If it doesn't work, the the 120 will get traded in for something else. Can't see me selling it privately with this issue.....
 
Thanks Tony, for revising Rob's thread. Another gem.
A bit concerning though, that they are supplied with copper washers from injection specialists, who obviously don't understand the problem there.
It's so demoralising when things don't go as hoped, after spending money and putting in hours, with no result.
Im sure you will be ok, once those injectors are done and with scv already done, will all come together.
Good luck with it.
 
I have never understood why copper was pretty much always the given for injector washers, then they aren't good enough now. Obviously Toyota thought copper was the way to go with d4d, and they worked in their design and testing, so what happened to cost them and others serious money, and change to aluminium.?
I know they leaked but why, and why is aluminium considered better, when all along copper was king ?
Is it heat or the design of the d4d? Very interested to know the real reasons, as opposed to just theories.
 
The injector washers are still made of copper but have a coating that is mixed with aluminium and something else for a longer life , the plain copper ones after a high miles and/or a few years would have a tendency to wear away and leak combustion past them and mix with the oil and block the oil strainer with carbon that could starve the engine of oil , these aluminium looking washers will still ultimately wear away but last a lot longer than the plain copper washers .
 
Thanks Tony, for that explanation. I still can't get my head around the failures and the wear though.
Through all my years hgv1, travelling thousands of miles in old workhorses to start with, to later more modern, all of many types, and all with copper washers to my working knowledge, there was never a failure.
I had problems with injectors going 'bad' and injector pipes cracking, but nothing to do with the copper sealing washers causing leakage, oil starvation or engine failure, attributed to same. Cheers mate.
 
I agree the copper washers are a concern. All I can say is that 80,000 miles later the injectors (with aluminium washers from Toyota) are still going strong.
 
Would copper washers date back to the days injectors were fitted externally, to remove and replace was often easier than changing a set of spark plugs, and if there was any leaks from the seals they were easily spotted and caused no engine issues such as they now do with combustion gasses inside the crankcase.

At one time all injectors would be seated in cast iron cylinder heads, but whether alloy or cast iron screwed in or clamped i never had a single problem removing an external injector, drop 'em into a good Diesel shop for cleaning/overhaul and all good again, last set i had rejiggled like that cost me £60 cash as i recall, wish things were as simple and cheap to maintain now.
 
Back
Top