Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Suggestion Please Thanks!!

Californiadad

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
3
Country Flag
united_states
Hello All,
A friend of mine just brought me a 1986 Toyota Landcruiser Strait 6 with a manual transmission. He has asked me to help him make it run right again. Apparently is used to run good but recently it has been running very very rich and it will not idle anymore. To get it to start you have to press the gas pedal (WOT) until it fires up and then you have to keep the rpm's up above 1200 RPM or else it will just shake and die right out. When you hold the RPM about 1200 is just stinks up the whole area of un burnt gas. Also the owner informed me that the last time he filled up the tank, gas was pouring out of the filler neck, like the tank was being pressurized some how.
So where should I start??
thanks in advance!!!
 
Welcome to the club. :icon-biggrin:

I'd start by checking the breather hoses coming off the tank, as by the sounds of it these are blocked.

If you follow the filler hose down to the tank you should see some smaller hoses coming off the tank near the filler hose, remove these and blow them out with compressed air to ensure there clear.

I'd also visually check the 2 fuel hoses/pipes running from the tank, all the way along the chassis to the engine for any damage. If there damaged/rusted through they will allow air to enter the system.

Id also check and replace the fuel filter and check what condition the air filter is in. :thumbup:
 
With my limited experience of the "gas" engine I found stripping the carb and rebuilding with a rebuild kit to be highly beneficial. I did this on a 40 series and it ran like a sewing machine after. Like Ben says though, check the fuel supply first. It may be something like a blocked jet or incorrect float level.
Hope this helps.

Andy
 
Well today I got out into the garage and was checking a few things on the carb, and I noticed that the choke was completely closed. I turned the ignition on and pulled the choke knob on the dash in and out and there was no change at the carb. I manually opened the choke flapper and when I released it, the flapper sprung closed. I inserted a screwdriver in there to hold the choke all the way open, and when I tried to start it, Truck fired right up and seems to idle just fine right at about 900RPM. Is the choke suppose to be like this? Im kinda thinking not. Here are a few pictures of my friends rig.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1278.JPG
    IMG_1278.JPG
    551.3 KB · Views: 104
  • IMG_1280.JPG
    IMG_1280.JPG
    571.3 KB · Views: 100
  • IMG_1282.JPG
    IMG_1282.JPG
    458.9 KB · Views: 123
Also here are a few pictures of the engine bay, and my handy dandy screwdriver holding the choke butterfly open in order to make it start and idle
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1289.JPG
    IMG_1289.JPG
    399.7 KB · Views: 97
  • IMG_1290.JPG
    IMG_1290.JPG
    357.8 KB · Views: 117
  • IMG_1287.JPG
    IMG_1287.JPG
    443.5 KB · Views: 106
In my limited petrol experience a choke is supposed to be closed when in use, open when not.
So for normal running once the engine is started and warmed up or at normal operating temperature it does not restrict the flow of air into the engine and thereby cause it to run rich.

Your picture does not show a lot but I would suspect you have a brake in the choke linkage or cable and it is closing under it's own weight or with spring assistance, if everything looks right at the carb try replacing or repairing the choke cable.

From what you have written above I suspect that the choke cable has probably failed with age.
Nice machine looks like your friend flat tows it?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Back
Top