That was a heavy b'stard

[Bat21]

Removed the rear diff and housing today..... fark me that thing isn't light is it

I removed all the nuts and obviously the prop and then psyched myself up to slide it out. Did a few 'trial runs' and stopped at the point of no return..... and then went for it. As I didn't want it to come crashing out I positioned myself so that if it slipped it would land on me

It didn't slip but I did have to lower it pretty damn quick, so I lay there pinned to the ground thinking "this thing is heavier than Lucy"

I eventually managed to get it off me and on to the ground.... but god knows how I'm going to get it back in there, with the copper air pipe for the ARB locker fitted it's going to have to be a delicate job gently sliding it back in.

 

[Ben]

I've found on mine if I jack it up fairly high with axles stands under the axle, and bigger axles stands under the chassis. With the rear prop unbolted at the diff end and twisted up over one of the radius arms out of the way, I'm able to sit upright and then lift and push the diff in.

Still not easy, but a damm sight easier than lying on your back trying to bench press it up and in.

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

Man up and just slip it back in!!

 

[Chris]

I lay it on my chest
My belly stops it rolling away

C

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Man up and just slip it back in!!

Thats what she said!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

yes it will be a few kg heavier with the ARB in it You could always balance it on a jack and lift it mostly into place on that as the hardest part is getting it off the ground. The higher the axle is the easier it should be.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

If you are doing it on a flat, level and smooth surface, then a jack is the easiest option. If you have a gearbox adaptor for your jack, so much the better. If you are working on gravel, then make level area with a suitable board (ply, chip or similar).

You could always take the opportunity to remove the whole axle, re-furb it, re-fit the diff. and then use the jack to re-fit the whole thing.

Roger

 

[Justin_Elliott]

OT - but how hard is it to remove a rear axle off an 80?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Getting the axle off is pretty easy if you can support the chassis securely. I had a big crane at my disposal when I took them off my green 80

 

[Ben]

OT - but how hard is it to remove a rear axle off an 80?

Jack up the truck and position axle stands under the chassis.

Remove the wheels.

Clamp the flexi brake hose and then disconnect the brake lines.

With the trolley jack positioned in the middle of the axle, undo the bottom shock mounts and lower the axle down on the jack and remove the springs.

Un-bolt the axle end of the panhard rod.

Un-bolt the radius arms from the axle.

Slide the whole rear axle back and out from under the truck on the trolley jack.

If all the bolts came out without any problems, maybe a few hours work.

Re-fitting it might be slightly trickier trying to get everything lined up, and then having to bleed the back brakes.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Over the past few weeks i have seen some, to me, horrendous pictures of corroded axle casings and if you have any doubts as to the state yours is in, then whip the case out and do it.

It really is pretty basic and a lot lighter now you have removed the diff. I made an adaptor for my jack that supports the axle evenly side to side and this makes removal and refitting a lot easier. Ben made one to my design so he may have pictures available.

Once off, strip off the hubs and get it shot-blasted.

Would anyone like to suggest a suitable primer for the axle case?

Roger

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

Roger, use stuff called "cold gav". It is a Zinc based primer.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Roger, use stuff called "cold gav". It is a Zinc based primer.

Cheers Paul. Will need a decent primer for when I do my front axle re-furb.

Roger

 

[Justin_Elliott]

...maybe a few hours work.

Judging by the speed you've done work on yours - I'll estimate I'd take a fraction over.... ....a full week end!

... if you have any doubts as to the state yours is in, then whip the case out and do it.

No major concerns - but believe if and when I do paint my chassis it would be worth removing the axles as most of the parts need to come off anyway...

 

[Bat21]

Thanks for the comments here chaps.... I must admit I never considered removing the axle.

Yesterday I was moving things around in the garage and found my bike lift buried under 'stuff', I recon it will be perfect for the refit with a little thought (library photo)

 

[Roger Fairclough]

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The above photo shows my "Yankee" jack fitted with my spreader bar for lifting either axle evenly. The various short and long extensions allow lifting from the front diff protector or the rear crossmember.

Roger

 

[Bat21]

Well.... refitting the ARB is proving to be a right pain, there just doesn't seem to be enough clearance for the copper tube to pass over the ring gear and fit in the axle casing. Why did ARB swap the airbearing sides and make life so difficult


I'm going to remove the axle so I can have a better look when I try to refit it again.... in hind sight I wish I'd left the LSD in now

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Persevere, it can be done!

The trick is to bring the copper tube very close---6-8mm---to the crown wheel and far enough in from the flange. Try about 50mm.

Roger

 

[Bat21]

Thanks Roger, thats roughly where i had it before attempting to slide it bqck in. The trouble is there is only about 5-6mm gap between the flange face and the crown wheel while sliding it through.

The copper pipe is almost this diameter, so it means having to push it right up against the crown wheel when sliding it in and then hope it 'springs' back away once in past the flange face.

I'm hoping that once I have the axle off, I can stand above it and get a clearer view during the reinstall and maybe angle it slightly to get it in past the flange face.

I really hope these lockers are maintenance free as this isn't a job I want to be doing again in a hurry.