Does anyone know which member has the highest mileage cruiser on here?
I think there should be a yearly award and wall of honour for them
I think there should be a yearly award and wall of honour for them
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When is enough, enough?
- Thread starter Bodhi
- Start date
Does anyone know which member has the highest mileage cruiser on here?
I think there should be a yearly award and wall of honour for them
I like that idea, trouble is, with 80s, it would be the same truck ..... Every year .... Forever!
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 5,809
Not even run in mate.
Mines got 285k on it but I know there's higher out there. A lad I know had one with 420 on it until he smashed it and the insurance wouldn't let him have it back
Dont mean to jack this thread, but insurance has gone crazy in the UK. Once you take it out, it's like you've sold the car to them, at their discretion
Forget the mileage.......period.
Tell the seller you want to start and drive it from stone cold, i.e. first start of the day. You will then start to get a feel for how the car really is, the gear change goes through an evolution process as it warms through. Difficult gear selection not uncommon but, if a little stiff when cold but improves when warm then that is about as good as it gets, lot of BS hype out there on additives. If the engine smokes when cold and does not clear then that could be expensive.
Look at the knuckles on the axles behind the wheels, grease running out from them is not good sign, not massively expensive but try driving in circles on full lock and listen for the CV joints, any noises and now it is going to start to get expensive, in particular if you are going to rebuild it to OE spec.
Now look underneath for rust, the known places have been mentioned, Rust is expensive to repair properly.
Now to the interior, good clean interior parts are expensive to get unless you are super lucky.
Final thought, look at your budget then at the prospective purchase. If the cost of buying the car and the projected costs of repairing exceed your budget then walk away. I say this because your guess at pretty much any repair on an 80 will be woefully under estimated if it is to be done properly.
Mine has only 240,000 + miles, just this minute got back from a 260 mile drive, not a lot true but it is as effortless today as it was 5 years ago when I bought the car with 182,000 miles.
regards
Dave
Tell the seller you want to start and drive it from stone cold, i.e. first start of the day. You will then start to get a feel for how the car really is, the gear change goes through an evolution process as it warms through. Difficult gear selection not uncommon but, if a little stiff when cold but improves when warm then that is about as good as it gets, lot of BS hype out there on additives. If the engine smokes when cold and does not clear then that could be expensive.
Look at the knuckles on the axles behind the wheels, grease running out from them is not good sign, not massively expensive but try driving in circles on full lock and listen for the CV joints, any noises and now it is going to start to get expensive, in particular if you are going to rebuild it to OE spec.
Now look underneath for rust, the known places have been mentioned, Rust is expensive to repair properly.
Now to the interior, good clean interior parts are expensive to get unless you are super lucky.
Final thought, look at your budget then at the prospective purchase. If the cost of buying the car and the projected costs of repairing exceed your budget then walk away. I say this because your guess at pretty much any repair on an 80 will be woefully under estimated if it is to be done properly.
Mine has only 240,000 + miles, just this minute got back from a 260 mile drive, not a lot true but it is as effortless today as it was 5 years ago when I bought the car with 182,000 miles.
regards
Dave
Don't forget, Dave lives in sunny Spain. With respect, I doubt if his truck ever gets cold. My gearbox is a pig in the winter, at -20C. It doesn't take long to get warm, and Dave is spot on, the box does go through an evolution as it warms up.
In the UK, I don't suppose it will be much colder that 0 or -5C, but if it's quite stiff at cold don't be surprised. It's normal. Parts aren't cheap though, but they last a long time after changing if you buy genuine or reputable makes.
80s aren't cars, they're trucks, and drive like trucks. Someone compared an 80 with a Tuareg. Their comment was a Tuarg is a big car, and an 80 is a small truck.
I Predict youll either love or hate it. If in doubt, walk away, if you like it enough to buy it, it will grow on you.
Losing mine would be like losing an arm or leg. Can't put a price on that.
In the UK, I don't suppose it will be much colder that 0 or -5C, but if it's quite stiff at cold don't be surprised. It's normal. Parts aren't cheap though, but they last a long time after changing if you buy genuine or reputable makes.
80s aren't cars, they're trucks, and drive like trucks. Someone compared an 80 with a Tuareg. Their comment was a Tuarg is a big car, and an 80 is a small truck.
I Predict youll either love or hate it. If in doubt, walk away, if you like it enough to buy it, it will grow on you.
Losing mine would be like losing an arm or leg. Can't put a price on that.
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Don't forget, Dave lives in sunny Spain. With respect, I doubt if his truck ever gets cold/QUOTE]
HEY!! I will have you know it was down to 10c here last winter!!
regards
Dave
+1 there too. Mine was bought after my Shogun got nicked in 2004 and was the best I could get at the time so I didn't do much research. Seems I got lucky, it did grow on me, lots and it had to after the Shogun being my pride and joy. It's now the vehicle I've owned the longest and at 21 years just starting to need a bit of TLC. I was amazed at how many people commented on how good they were.
Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Driven in or driven a few high KM Land Cruisers here in Aus:
-1986 Troopy (both petrol and diesel) with nothing under 450,000km (and that was in 2012...) they both went OK; the NA diesel was no speed demon, but it got up the hill all day every day
-1992 diesel 80 series (I think): one with 500,000km, the other 600,000km... still went well, used every weekend off in the bush and the only work that had been done on the was the BEB's on one of them and an after market turbo on the other. Serviced every 5k km by a heavy diesel mechanic who looks after the other 3 Land Cruisers in the family as well, a 40 series that has a 12HT in it from a 60 series, 14 year old daughter's HJ75 series ute and the 12 year old son's 40 series (not sure on engine in that) which the kids fang about the bush property in.
My choice? I'll always go with something in good condition with about 15-25,000miles per year on it; my 2000 Volvo V70 went to the scrappers in 2010 (well, that's when I parked it up for 6 months.... 26 months later I got back to it and then dismantled it...) with 225,000 miles on it; still drove well and had very few problems in the 3 years I ran it from 172,000 miles to 225,000miles.... BUT it did have a full service history using 3 main dealers in that time, and the body was in OK condition - 10,000 mile services 2 to 3 times a year!
-1986 Troopy (both petrol and diesel) with nothing under 450,000km (and that was in 2012...) they both went OK; the NA diesel was no speed demon, but it got up the hill all day every day
-1992 diesel 80 series (I think): one with 500,000km, the other 600,000km... still went well, used every weekend off in the bush and the only work that had been done on the was the BEB's on one of them and an after market turbo on the other. Serviced every 5k km by a heavy diesel mechanic who looks after the other 3 Land Cruisers in the family as well, a 40 series that has a 12HT in it from a 60 series, 14 year old daughter's HJ75 series ute and the 12 year old son's 40 series (not sure on engine in that) which the kids fang about the bush property in.
My choice? I'll always go with something in good condition with about 15-25,000miles per year on it; my 2000 Volvo V70 went to the scrappers in 2010 (well, that's when I parked it up for 6 months.... 26 months later I got back to it and then dismantled it...) with 225,000 miles on it; still drove well and had very few problems in the 3 years I ran it from 172,000 miles to 225,000miles.... BUT it did have a full service history using 3 main dealers in that time, and the body was in OK condition - 10,000 mile services 2 to 3 times a year!
I would buy that tomorrow at that price if the bodywork is ok. Might be worth asking if it comes with an MOT to give you an idea of how confident the seller is. The mileage is irrelevant on these trucks and really does anyone know if their mileage is genuine on trucks this age. What the seller says is irrelevant its what you can discover.
It is also surprising what you can pick things up for if you actually drive down and talk to the bloke and have notes in your pocket. I got £1800 off when I bought mine!
You got to just keep in your mind that it is a 20+ year old truck. it will have faults.
It is also surprising what you can pick things up for if you actually drive down and talk to the bloke and have notes in your pocket. I got £1800 off when I bought mine!
You got to just keep in your mind that it is a 20+ year old truck. it will have faults.
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