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Who is doing what maintenance today?

My mate who has a body shop only asked for a grill, he reckons he can repair the bonnet. It’s how my luck runs at the moment, spend £600 on some new tyres and why not throw another few hundred at an unexpected bill. Still not as bad as the mrs keeping on about it.
 
Just sodding bad luck there Mark!! You just can't ever know whats round the corner hopefully getting it fixed asap won't bare the frustration at seeing it each and every day.
 
next job ........................ always fun .
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not!!!!
 
Got my OBDII cable and Techstream software working on my 64 bit laptop. Pulled off a P0093 code which suggest a big fuel leak. The car had cut out a couple of times recently in precisely the "limp for a minute then die" mode the ECU is supposed to do in those circumstances.

Couldn't see any sign of fuel leaks, but a cursory twiddle of the fuel filter drain plug let out a few ml of water. I've never had any water in there. Had a fuel filter I bought the week I bought the car, about 70K miles ago. Given tomorrow's weather forecast is terrible I thought tonight would be a good time to change it. Diesel in the old filter had some black gloop in it. New filter fitted and I think the engine sounds better on tick over, but that could be imagining it. Need to work out how to reset MIL codes tomorrow and we'll see how it goes.

@Rob Cowell I have started to experience this issue with my 2005 120. Read the codes and I get the P0093 error code. Has yours repeated this issue since the change of the filter?

Doing some research brings up a variety of opinions and reasons. Typically my 120 if not left to idle for a few mins before driving off it will go into limp mode, especially on colder mornings. Mrs seems to also think this happens more frequently when the fuel in the tank is low. Some suggestions seem to indicate that cheap diesel could be the culprit, so at next fill I will change away from supermarket cheap as (I have always used this from new, now at 117k), to having to do something with the SCV and replacing injectors.

Could also be dirt in the tank or a air in the fuel system.

I serviced it recently with new oil, air and fuel filters, and oil, bit it still does it.

Any thoughts from anyone?
 
@Rob Cowell I have started to experience this issue with my 2005 120. Read the codes and I get the P0093 error code. Has yours repeated this issue since the change of the filter?

Doing some research brings up a variety of opinions and reasons. Typically my 120 if not left to idle for a few mins before driving off it will go into limp mode, especially on colder mornings. Mrs seems to also think this happens more frequently when the fuel in the tank is low. Some suggestions seem to indicate that cheap diesel could be the culprit, so at next fill I will change away from supermarket cheap as (I have always used this from new, now at 117k), to having to do something with the SCV and replacing injectors.

Could also be dirt in the tank or a air in the fuel system.

I serviced it recently with new oil, air and fuel filters, and oil, bit it still does it.

Any thoughts from anyone?

Hi Tony

When I changed my fuel filter a lump of what I can only describe as black jelly came out. I never had the problem after that.

SCVs seem to cause something similar although I've never touched mine. Did change my injectors at about 150K miles. But that was about 10K miles after the cut-out incidents.


Rob
 
Thanks Rob. I will try the easy bits first, starting with better quality fuel, and I will also check the tank for diesel bug. Last time Trevor serviced it for me he mentioned that there was some evidence of this in the fuel filter, so I do think my tank needs to be cleaned... Don't relish that job at all.
 
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Mats, wind deflectors, bonnet deflector and Techstream arrived last night. Mats fitted and deflectors fitting on Sunday.
 
Thanks Rob. I will try the easy bits first, starting with better quality fuel, and I will also check the tank for diesel bug. Last time Trevor serviced it for me he mentioned that there was some evidence of this in the fuel filter, so I do think my tank needs to be cleaned... Don't relish that job at all.

I know it means nothing, but I've had my tank out a couple of times and the filter in there has been squeaky clean. I don't know if it being a plastic tank helps. Also not terrible to take out, other than every bolt was very stiff. Replaced all those with stainless. The hoseclips for the filler pipe are likely to be interesting too.
 
Thanks Rob, I'll initially have a look through the top first, not too keen to drop the tank...
 
Mine nearly failed for the same reason. The tester just rattled the rear door till it worked :clap::clap:
 
Had the black Collie in the workshop today for a couple of niggly faults. The first was a wind whistle next to my ear which was cured by pulling the window guide back up its channel so there wasn't a gap. The other niggle was that especially on a cold morning the reader on the ignition barrel wouldn't recognise the transponder in the key and it wouldn't start without a wiggle of the key ( which could take up to 5 mins).
This was cured by taking off the trim round the lock and pushing the connector home ( with a satisfying click) on the back of the reader. It must have just been making contact when it was warm but not when cold.
had another go at the rattling dash too, is it a Collie thing?
 
Came about this >< close to having a nervous breakdown fitting and wiring a reversing camera.
 
Today a small maintenance operation went underway.

1. One broken stud long over due replaced all six as new and corrected existing length of old being longer ones most likely the rears.
2. Replace locking tab for stub axle nut (wheel would come loose after time)
3. Replace front pad with original Toyota (no more squeaking brakes driving me crazy this last 1 1/2 years lol)


Few other jobs left for next time all due to care and attention more than anything else.

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Hardly maintenance but I changed a front nearside sidelight this morning as it had blown and I was taking the truck for a MoT at lunchtime.

The truck passed albeit with several advisories; :|
  • Advisory notice item(s)
    nearside front Track rod end ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.2.C.1c)
    offside front Track rod end ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.2.C.1c)
Well, not so lucky this year - the truck failed due to the track rod end ball joint covers - excessively deteriorated apparently. :thumbdown:

Just wondering whether it's better to replace the whole track rod end joints at the same time, as I assume they need to be removed to replace just the covers anyway?

Is there anything else that could/should be done at the same time as a preventative measure?

Thanks in advance. :thumbup:
 
To my mind Chadr the track rods are exposed and vulnerable = consumable so there's no need to make a big job of it .

Add grease before you fit them , they come with grease in but there's plenty of void space under the boot to let crap in and shorten life expectancy .
 
Well, not really maintenance but after a small, erm.......'incident' involving the garage door, the tow ball and a reversing manoeuvre in heavy rain after dark I decided to fit an external reverse light. I had a small LED light bar lying round spare so thought I'd give it a try. Mounted it in the position shown as the 2 spare threaded holes in the bumper were handy and connecting up was easy, just took a feed from the tow socket. Admittedly it's a bit vulnerable down there especially when hooking up the caravan or a trailer but I didn't want one on the roof so we'll see how long it lasts. The OEM reversing lights already have LED bulbs in, much brighter than filament items but light with the new addition is way better.

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