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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Upper control arms scrubbed and painted with Buzzweld. Back on. What an arsemongel of a job. Rear anti roll bar bushes and stirrup brackets replaced. One had taken a direct hit and wasn't exactly round anymore. All 4 bolts came out with a spanner! No dramas. Front anti roll bar bushes the same ans the little axle bushes but the upper drop links are stuffed so they're on order. And then it was time for a nap.
 
Reinstated the tow electrics that got savaged in the mountains. and I heard back from the prop specialists. They reckon the rear prop is fine and doesn't need any work but the front one is a shocker. They're struggled to find the right components to replace the slip joint section so they've made me a whole new front prop with the right flanges but a different shaft assembly in heavy duty! Get it back next week sometime. Hopefully this will remove the Grrrrrr noise I get on the over run. They were pretty sure that this would have been the cause as the prop wobbles about on the splines. Happy days.
 
Reinstated the tow electrics that got savaged in the mountains. and I heard back from the prop specialists. They reckon the rear prop is fine and doesn't need any work but the front one is a shocker. They're struggled to find the right components to replace the slip joint section so they've made me a whole new front prop with the right flanges but a different shaft assembly in heavy duty! Get it back next week sometime. Hopefully this will remove the Grrrrrr noise I get on the over run. They were pretty sure that this would have been the cause as the prop wobbles about on the splines. Happy days.

Where did you get the prop done in the end Chris?
 
Propshaft Tech in Rotherham as you suggested. Very slow but nice chaps. They did apologise for being so slow, they'd had some rush jobs on
 
Not really maintenance as such but replaced the HIDs in the inner headlamp housings with these...

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Nothing wrong with the HIDs which had an excellent beam pattern but I also have HIDs in the Hella driving lamps and one of the drive units has failed so, thinking ahead to the MOT I fitted the LEDs and used on of the spare drive units for the Hellas. The LEDs give just as good a beam pattern although not quite as bright but brighter and slightly whiter than the H4 LEDs I bought from Woodypeck some time ago. Well pleased for £15 and they’re fan cooled so just have long life.
 
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nothing exciting. Replaced some hard lines and the flexi brake hoses.
last section I made out of copper as having removed the ABS the hard line from toyota wouldn't of fitted.
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Not really maintenance but the 120 had developed an irritating buzz at 2000rpm when cold. Had it on the ramp and one of the heat shield retaining nuts had worn through the heat shield above the DPF. one penny washer later and refinement had been restored.
 
Not really maintenance but the 120 had developed an irritating buzz at 2000rpm when cold. Had it on the ramp and one of the heat shield retaining nuts had worn through the heat shield above the DPF. one penny washer later and refinement had been restored.
Hi Andy
DPF or do you mean Cat .
 
Ordered some service bits for the 80, big service and check the valve clearances due (well at 100k and it's done 87k but getting on)

Swapped to the winter wheels on the Beemer ready for the cold weather
 
No.1 daughter's RAV4 is on Bridgestone Duelers and she is needing a new pair.

The Duelers are shown as "Summer Tyres" on some sites, but have the "M&S" logo. I guess that's not Marks & Spencer :think:.

So what are they? I've been looking at "Four Season" options but should I bother or just go for Duelers again ??

Bank of Dad can't run to a spare set of five wheels with BFGs on for the winter (for each daughter).

Bob.
 
Fixed a diesel leak - I thought it was injector pump related and I was just hoping for something loose as both injectors and pump have recently been services. After spraying copious amounts of brake cleaner to try and trace it I quickly discovered that the leak was coming from well above the pump ... I then quickly checked the oil worried about diesel contamination but that was ok. More brake cleaner being sprayed and I can see it is coming from above the air inlet manifold. I removed the cross over pipe and put 1/4 of a turn on the injector line inlet thingies and it seems to have fixed it. Some of you know my saga using one of the UK popular overland mechanics ... and I feel this is just one more notch on their belt of sloppy work.

This is where the leak was.

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After all warning lights on dash came on and battery gauge showing low, decided to pull over and wait for recovery to bring me home. Had 25 miles to go and it was dusk so found somewhere safe to stop rather than risk trying to get home. Charged the battery next day to move it from where it was dropped off and no warning lights, so not able to trace fault. Decided to change alternator anyway as it wasn’t charging, so new alternator, belts and idler pulley later.
So thought might as well change oil and filter, check brakes, grease props, flush and change coolant. Whilst flushing coolant cleaned expansion bottle - found oven cleaner worked best at cleaning the crud out with an scotch pad cable tied to a stick to clean inside out
The ‘helper’ came along as I was flushing the coolant, don’t know whether he was thinking of donating an egg to cure the the leak or not !
 
I know it's still November but my 80 thinks it's Christmas because it's put up the Christmas light on the dash, but the dash and my digital meter both read full volts, is it safe to keep driving do you think?
 
I know it's still November but my 80 thinks it's Christmas because it's put up the Christmas light on the dash, but the dash and my digital meter both read full volts, is it safe to keep driving do you think?
Maybe its a delayed reaction from 'yer' Airborne Antics the other day... :lol:
 
I know it's still November but my 80 thinks it's Christmas because it's put up the Christmas light on the dash, but the dash and my digital meter both read full volts, is it safe to keep driving do you think?

Not worked professionally on cars for quite some time although being in the trade for 30+ years. Would be wary of driving with warning lights on even if things seem fine as if something does go wrong, you won’t know as warning light will already be on. I would start with checking earths and for loose multi plugs, also if any work has been done on it recently in that area on case something has been disturbed.
 
Would be wary of driving with warning lights on even if things seem fine as if something does go wrong, you won’t know as warning light will already be on.
Good point, but I was thinking just a short distance to get to a mechanic would be OK.
 
Good point, but I was thinking just a short distance to get to a mechanic would be OK.
Might want to charge the batteries first chas if its an alternator issue and not far to go. Drove my 80 for 2 days like that before got to the garage but with new batteries and charging each night
 
Might want to charge the batteries first chas if its an alternator issue and not far to go. Drove my 80 for 2 days like that before got to the garage but with new batteries and charging each night
Battery voltage is good, the alternator still seems to be charging even with the lights on.
 
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