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- Mar 1, 2010
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Those are all empty Easter egg boxes are they Warren.
Frank
Frank
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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
The the Silver Phoenix for its annual Ministry health check today. Battered and bashed as it is - it walked through. All I had to do was nip up the damn handbrake as I do every year.
I asked them, whilst it was on the rollers (back wheels) to see how easily it pulled up and out - just so I could see the effect of the VC. They barely tickled the throttle, the back wheels did revolve a little but it just pulled out and onto the concrete. They had a van in before me and I watched how they got that out. Basically they had to give it some until the rollers reach some sort of maximum free running speed and the thing threw itself out.
So £40 well spent I suppose. I had faith. Also fitted my NATO hitch today. Man that looks purposeful.
Chris
I asked them, whilst it was on the rollers (back wheels) to see how easily it pulled up and out - just so I could see the effect of the VC. They barely tickled the throttle, the back wheels did revolve a little but it just pulled out and onto the concrete. They had a van in before me and I watched how they got that out. Basically they had to give it some until the rollers reach some sort of maximum free running speed and the thing threw itself out.
So £40 well spent I suppose. I had faith. Also fitted my NATO hitch today. Man that looks purposeful.
Chris
majic79
Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2012
- Messages
- 183
Fitted the new radiator - nice and straightforward job, was a little thinner than the original, glad I did it though as one of the auto cooler fittings was weeping slightly. While the coolant system was drained down, I also replaced the pipe that run to the rear heater matrix. So I'm hoping that I don't have any issues that will cook the 'box, but I'm getting a little worried about it - I replaced a gallon of fluid with new, drained it again as it was looking dirty and it was as bad as it was when I last changed it
Also changed the fuel filler neck - got a nice list of places to treat for rust while I was underneath.
Next up, replace axle and transfer case fluids and that's the major service complete
Also changed the fuel filler neck - got a nice list of places to treat for rust while I was underneath.
Next up, replace axle and transfer case fluids and that's the major service complete
Last couple of weekends (mostly with Dr Wildsmith's help)
Replace the open rear diff on the 120 with an electrical locking diff out of an LC3 - just got to finish the electrics - some pics to follow when I get there. Basically fairly simple (for Dr Wildsmith, anyway) - needed to grind a slot in the casing flange for the actuator, and open the two existing slots for the crown wheel, then drill 4 new holes for the one extra and 3 moved studs. All seems to work so far - minor oil weep from the actuator fixed this last weekend.
Watched in some awe as Jon machined a new solid spacer to replace the crush-spacer that was in there, and set the pre-load and backlash etc. - defo some wizardry going on there! All this while I was trying to remove the fuel tank to improve access, which we got around eventually by using a DeWalt right-angle drill (very smart toy)
Most painful part was re-assembling the handbrake shoes and springs - what a pain - there must be a fancy SST for those springs somewhere :LOL:
Bled the rear brakes, adjusted the handbrake - they both work well now ...
While we were faffing under the truck, we noticed the left rear control arm was bent - oops - so this last weekend I took it off, flipped it over, stuck it in and jacked up the vehicle to straighten it out, (thanks Chris) which seems to have worked, so that's £100 + saved :LOL:
Interestingly, once it was straight it was apparent that the axle was in the wrong place - now I know what a hi-lift jack is REALLY for - to easily jack the axle backwards so the control arm slotted back into position properly - thank goodness for solid sliders to jack against!!
Next - refurb all 4 calipers - just wondering if I should do this before or after Lincomb gets it's mud in there again?
Then fit the wiring for the locker, wiring for spot-lights, wiring for Parrot kit - going to be a long auto-electrical session. Hope I don't break it :LOL:
Replace the open rear diff on the 120 with an electrical locking diff out of an LC3 - just got to finish the electrics - some pics to follow when I get there. Basically fairly simple (for Dr Wildsmith, anyway) - needed to grind a slot in the casing flange for the actuator, and open the two existing slots for the crown wheel, then drill 4 new holes for the one extra and 3 moved studs. All seems to work so far - minor oil weep from the actuator fixed this last weekend.
Watched in some awe as Jon machined a new solid spacer to replace the crush-spacer that was in there, and set the pre-load and backlash etc. - defo some wizardry going on there! All this while I was trying to remove the fuel tank to improve access, which we got around eventually by using a DeWalt right-angle drill (very smart toy)
Most painful part was re-assembling the handbrake shoes and springs - what a pain - there must be a fancy SST for those springs somewhere :LOL:
Bled the rear brakes, adjusted the handbrake - they both work well now ...
While we were faffing under the truck, we noticed the left rear control arm was bent - oops - so this last weekend I took it off, flipped it over, stuck it in and jacked up the vehicle to straighten it out, (thanks Chris) which seems to have worked, so that's £100 + saved :LOL:
Interestingly, once it was straight it was apparent that the axle was in the wrong place - now I know what a hi-lift jack is REALLY for - to easily jack the axle backwards so the control arm slotted back into position properly - thank goodness for solid sliders to jack against!!
Next - refurb all 4 calipers - just wondering if I should do this before or after Lincomb gets it's mud in there again?
Then fit the wiring for the locker, wiring for spot-lights, wiring for Parrot kit - going to be a long auto-electrical session. Hope I don't break it :LOL:
Glad it all worked out Gary. There is a trick to those rear brakes. Honestly, couple of mins. Basic tools. I have been where you were, struggling and cursing. Can do them dead easy now. Small flat screwdriver and some thin nosed, angled pliers is really all you need. The trick is to put the whole assembly together in the hub, then put the shoe in and just flick the washer, spring and pin thing over the shoe into the slot. Were you trying to put the thing together and get the washer over the pin?
Chris
Chris
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Exactly that. Swine design, especially the way the cable goes into the hub :-(
yep, bit of a stupid design that to disconnect the cable you have to take the whole lot to bits instead of just pulling a pin on the outside which is what I'm used to, can't remember the last time I had to take shoes off and refit, maybe 10 years.
Scope for a redesign in there for sure. That bell crank would be better in stainless, in fact it's not the only bit in there that would benefit. Where is seizes up is the swivel on the end of the internal lever - the sort of crescent thing attached to the shoe. That needs to be free to work properly. There is a sort of alloy housing on the back with a pin through it. The bell crank, pin and housing are all dissimilar metals, soaked in salt water. Recipe for truly shagged up handbrake. I think the absolute worst of it is that you can't adjust the play in the brakes without having to take the wheels off and faff about. Oh if only there was a cure for the handbrake ......Wait a minute!
Chris
Chris
Yep there is already - it's the 'P' on my auto gearbox 
majic79
Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2012
- Messages
- 183
Typical - while underneath replacing the drive-train fluids (full complement of front and rear diff as well as transfer case oils all replaced with new) I noticed the NSF ARB droplink has snapped. I guess that means all four are on their way out, time to order some new ones up....
Made some rear recovery points for the 120 seeing as the OEM ones (such as they were) are missing ...
75x75x8mm angle cut and drilled - now to get some red oxide and paint on them...
75x75x8mm angle cut and drilled - now to get some red oxide and paint on them...
warrenpfo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2010
- Messages
- 2,895
After installing the front ARB there is no need for the oem light washers or the washer motor as they have a dedicated pump. So out came the washer bottle which was filthy with all sorts growing inside and I remover the pump which left a 20p whole. So with some plastic welding and 5min of time it was sealed and yet another blank plug is left dangling in the engine bay.
Anyone have a need for the motor?
Anyone have a need for the motor?
Gary820
Well-Known Member
Started cleaning the underside yesterday and de greasing it ready for re painting. I'm going to get it on a ramp at work and give it a scrub with the degreaser to make sure it's nice and clean and not missed any bits.
Gave it a good polish while I was at it, nice and shiny again.
Gave it a good polish while I was at it, nice and shiny again.
Lost all drive in the woods yesterday. Managed to get out in 3 wheel drive. Great; these lockers. Back to camp. No locked in, no drive. No noises either. Turns out, I had sheared ALL of the studs and dowels on the DS front drive flange. No, I have no idea when or how I did that. Quick trip back to the man cave, built up a spare hub and running again within the hour. Unfortunately too late to complete all the punches. Any one ever shear their drive flange studs before?
Chris
Chris
never done it but have heard of people stripping the studs and dowels. They be upgraded but I can't remember details. This is something they beefed up on the 100 so possibly just swapping to 100 series studs and dowels though there would be some machine work involved.
Don't think so matey. Was rebuilt very recently (well it gets done so often you know me). But there are cones in there too, so it'd be pretty had to do that I think. Plus they're one of the few nuts that I use the torque wrench on. I do wonder though if the constant on and off had weakened them. Tempted to replace the lot. Well not the cones. Obviously there could be a case of error where though. I am sure we've all be sure we'd done something up only for it to come loose. Yes, hand in the air. I have. But in over 30 years of car fixing I can only recall 2 or 3 times at the most. But I shall refrain from saying what they were.
Jon are you saying they upped the dia of the studs on the hundee then? Happy to re tap the hubs for larger studs, but would it be best to just buy new 100 drive flanges?
C
Jon are you saying they upped the dia of the studs on the hundee then? Happy to re tap the hubs for larger studs, but would it be best to just buy new 100 drive flanges?
C
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Bent a recovery point recently towing a large van out of deep snow. Made it originally from 6mm angle steel so knocked a new one up from 10mm angle. Also going to use 12.9 bolts for attatchment to the chassis for a bit more peace of mind.
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They did and I think they also upped the diameter of the drive shafts though so I don't think just swapping flanges would work but I'm not 100% on that, I'm still getting back up to speed on 100's.
