12 volt starting conversion on a 1997 24 valve manual 80 series LandCruiser

[Bat21]

Thanks Chris and Lorin.

Will probably go with the Wood Auto's one

 

[Chris]

They're expensive but so far, this one has been the best I have had. My track record with starters and alternators has been horrific. Dunno why but it has. This one seems very happy.

Should I have said that?

 

[Dave2000]

Your memory is good Dave. This is what I bought...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Star...HD-T-1HD-FT-4-2L-Diesel-Engine-/290961562785?

Thanks for the confirmation. I thought it was but you never know, I did not want to give Paul a bum steer.

Also re the cold starting, IIRC the lowest I have seen was around -4 a few years back? No real difference with the 3.0kw, I am going to assume the 2.5 kw version will be the same.

regards

Dave

 

[Bat21]

Using a jumper on the connection in the passenger footwell provides the 0v needed for the starter relay so saves cutting into the harness and soldering a new wire in.

Jon (or anyone),
Have you got a photo of where I need to insert the jumper?

Just done the 12v conversion today and all has gone well, I just need to sort the ov needed for the starter relay.

 

[ByronJ]

Using a jumper on the connection in the passenger footwell provides the 0v needed for the starter relay so saves cutting into the harness and soldering a new wire in.

Jon (or anyone),
Have you got a photo of where I need to insert the jumper?

Just done the 12v conversion today and all has gone well, I just need to sort the ov needed for the starter relay.

I did this job the other day. The silver box at the top is the actual timer relay. The plug that you remove is to its left and the jumper is the small copper loop you can see at the bottom of the plug. It connects the white and red to the white and black wires. You can see this jumper in Jon's article (@Jon Wildsmith) but it is obscured by the cable tie wrapped around the plug.

This is a close up of the plug.

 

[Bat21]

Thanks Byron.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, as I right in thinking the plug is left off the relay once the jumper is fitted? Effectively eliminating the now defunct relay from the starting circuit?

 

[ByronJ]

Thanks Byron.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, as I right in thinking the plug is left off the relay once the jumper is fitted? Effectively eliminating the now defunct relay from the starting circuit?

Hi Paul. Yes the plug must remain disconnected as that prevents the Timer relay from triggering the Changeover replay. I taped my plug up and clipped it out of the way to finish the job.

 

[Lorin]

Thanks for the photo and info Byron. This is my next job - 12v starter is sat in its box waiting to be fitted.

 

[ByronJ]

Thanks for the photo and info Byron. This is my next job - 12v starter is sat in its box waiting to be fitted.

Your welcome Lorin. Good luck .

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

It was part way down https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/my-grey-80.133289/page-12 but Byron's picture is better

 

[Bat21]

Thanks for all the help folks, job now done and all is working fine.

One question for those that have done the conversion. The 12 volt starter certainly starts the motor just as quick as the 24 volt one but it does sound a little different, difficult to describe . Is this what others have noticed?

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

I noticed it on Chris's grey one (24V) but didn't notice it so much on 80MUD (12V) but they do have a different type of sound.

 

[Chris]

Not noticed on mine. Sounds just the same to me.

 

[Bat21]

Thanks Andy/Chris. This one certainly has a different sound..... I'm sure after a few weeks I wont notice it.

 

[Chris]

I don't even think about it now when I turn the key. I jump in between 2 80s all the time and it's only when a thread like this pops up that I remember! Not been run for a fortnight and covered in frost this morning. One touch of the key and away it went.

 

[Bat21]

Yes mine fires up first touch of the key too Chris. The starter just has a different 'note' to it.

I do have sensitive hearing though, I can tell what position the 3-Port valve on the central heating is in just by the differing tones of its 'hum'... probably the Asperger’s in me

 

[warrenpfo]

To bring this back to life i have just put in a 12v starter and done all the wiring apart from the 4 wires that terminate on the one crimp that used to be on the drivers side positive shown in the below photo

I want to know if rather than running a wire from the now passenger side starter battery all the way across the radiator to power theses 4 wires can i connect them to the alternator positive from the starter battery as its right there and will make for a neater setup?

 

[Dave2000]

I have not read this thread all the way through so unsure what you have and have not done. But the answer is yes they can go to the positive on the alternator side. Also not knowing your level of knowledge here but those wires are fusible links, if they are a bit 'minging' which most are then replace them with fuses. You can run one wire to a fuse box and then couple them up via a coupe of fuses, makes for a neater install.

regards

Dave

 

[warrenpfo]

Dave i want to go to the positive lug on the alternator not the battery on the alternator side.

My concern is to start the car it will draw power from the battery through the cable that once started will supply charge to the battery at the other end.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Dave2000]

Sorry mate you lost me, I will have to go through the thread to see what you are doing. If I understand you correctly It makes no odds where the connection to the cable run is, there will be say 12.6 at the connection when off and around 14.4 when the engine is running

Just for quickness, could you post up a quick diagram?

regards

Dave