1hd-ft engine rebuild

[IRLGW]

very nice workshop you have there. I see it has everything - even the kitchen sink. Tel me is it much of a pain to get the last two bolts out nearest the bulkhead? looks pretty tight. Dont forget to put up a video so we can all hear how sweet it sounds!

 

[frank rabbets]

Crikey perhaps the piston lands are stronger than the original. That steel land must be cast in-situ? You'll be able to use the egr cleaner with complete peace of mind now . DON'T

I have spray tubes on my 24 valve engine going up inside the piston. I can't remember what the inside of the piston crown looks like but it must be the same as Dels new ones. I don't know if the 12 valve engines have oil cooled pistons. I have no chassis number to enter into toyoDIY

 

[StarCruiser]

It looks that way frank one of the holes is directly above the oil nozzle when the piston in at bdc. The new Pistons seem pretty good quality too the only difference is they use proper circlips instead of snap rings holding the pin in and it looks like the lands for the top ring are made of steel

Sounds like they're uprated, perhaps Heaumey who posted earlier about the marine versions will be able to shed some light.

You may be able to up the power kev. [emoji83]

 

[frank rabbets]

Twas a REAL fiddle getting all the rockers horizontal. I use a piece of string and pulled it tight under them.

 

[Heaumey]

Yes both the 12 and 24 valves use piston cooling nozzles, this also lubes the small ends. I have seen some aftermarket Pistons for a Yanmar that had small drain holes behind the oil control ring that must have been for a drain but non of the genuine have this? The crown of the piston is tempered in a different way to the piston skirt to support the downward load from combustion and heat. This is obviously for the marine piston's as I've never seen a genuine Toyota one. Have always been led to believe the only difference was to the combustion chamber on the crown but can't confirm. By the way it looks really good

 

[StarCruiser]

Do the marine Pistons have the steel 1st land Heaumey?

 

[Shayne]

I can easily believe marine pistons are stronger . I can only imagine all them extra horses come from a harder revving engine which is allowed by a straight through much larger exhaust , different gearing and most importantly an infinite supply of very cold coolant . The number one rule on my boat is you check the stern to be sure she is pumping out water every time you start the engines .

 

[chapel gate]

does this mean i can stop EGT gauge watching and just hammer the SOAB!?

 

[frank rabbets]

The pistons melt at the same temperature. The steel landed ones I suspect are just stronger. Excessive egt can spoil the turbo as well.

 

[chapel gate]

i dont go above 1300f..

 

[Towpack]

i dont go above 1300f..

That's cutting it a bit fine IMO even if it's pre-turbo.
Aluminium melts at 1220F. Aluminium alloy pistons usually have some silicone content which will make the piston more resilient to high temps but not by much. It's only the flow of air through the combustion chamber that prevents the pistons melting. I never exceed 1200 for more than a few seconds. I've found changing down usually drops the temp by around 150f.

 

[IRLGW]

raw water cooled marine engine should run at about 55c. At over 65 the salt starts to crystalize in the chambers which is why many run on heat exchangers. Shayne if you feed clear tubing up into the wheelhouse to the siphon break you can easily see if its circulating while underway. I would check the raw water strainer before starting the engine so you can prevent dry running of the impeller which can self destruct in a matter of seconds! I recently say a yanmar version of the 4.2 engine reconditioned and putting out 350bhp for sale at £8k! wouldnt like to see the fuel gasumption chart for that one. A nice custom twin pipe manifold might also be required...

 

[dellboykev]

So I finished getting it back together today and ........ ITS RUNNING it even survived the run in process witch in the Haynes manual seems a little brutal I had to accelerate hard up to 50 and let the engine run down to 30mph 10 times to bed the rings. I will put a video up of it running but it will be next weekend I still need to adjust the valve clearance some seemed a little tight once I had the cam and rocker back on, it is a pain to getting all the rockers lined up you move one and another one spins round I just percivered no special tricks just a little annoying getting the head bolts out at the back is OK a deep socket fits and leaves enough room to get a turn on them the back rocker cover bolt on the other hand is a real pain in the arse so much so I have left it off until I do the valves but I'm pretty happy al in all its cost me £600 and that included a few tools like a ring expander and compressor and a couple of weekends

 

[Towpack]

Have yourself an extra pint tonight mate, you've earned it!

 

[dellboykev]

Pint on a school night I don't think so. The missus treated me to a nice brew an a cream egg though

 

[StarCruiser]

Cream egg eh Kev…you must be in her good books…[emoji6][emoji3]

Well done, that's not too bad a price for such a rebuild.

 

[frank rabbets]

Well done and quickly too. I had to turn down a socket in my lathe so it would fit for the head bolts. It's so narrow I thought it would split. Really tiring as well doing them all up bit by bit.

Just check the engine starts easily each time without having to prime diesel after it's been standing. I had a leak inside the rocker cover from the fuel spill pipe and the sump was slowly filling up with diesel. It's essential to use new ally washers each time on the spill pipe banjos.

 

[StarCruiser]

I can second that on the spill pipe seals. I reused mine after taking the spill pipe off to do a compression test and found I had to prime it each morning. A full set of new copper washers on mine cured the problem without it showing any outward signs of a leak.

 

[dellboykev]

i will keep an eye on the fuel i have used the old seals but i have new ones with the gasket set i was in a bit of a rush to get it back together before it gets dark the missus only gave me the cream egg because she can have her car back and she dosnt have to walk to work tomorrow so i will probably change them at the weekend when i do the valves unless it is leaking quite bad obviously. i am going to be tweaking the fuel pump again when it is run in too i did mess about with it s while ago but i was using the smoke method so i imagine it is running very lean now i also have an egt gauge to fit im going to put it in the egr blanking plate no no more egr cleaner

 

[chapel gate]

the smoke method isn't a a good indication of egt temps im afraid. I can easily get into the danger zone with no signs of black smoke.

imo I don't think a egr plate is the best place for the probe, I can understand why you want to put it there but this thing wants to be accurate.