35's on a 95

[Beau]

Tons of 4runner 3rd gens here in the states running on 35's which use same suspension as our 90's. Normally requires cutting the inside sill, at LEAST a 2 inch lift. Some do a body lift too. And you'd want a 1 inch diff drop unless you're gonna be binding your CV's at full droop. Diff drop kits sold here in the states, but it's really just a spacer on two of the Diff bolts, and longer bolts. You can make your own easily. You'll also need to add some spacers on the underside guard to get it to fit back properly.

It also helps to increase your caster and push the wheels further forward as normally it's the rear sill that's the touching point. I'm on 33's at the moment and think I can run 34's for sure without touching with my lift. I've got 2.5" up front and running the 80 series springs on the rear too.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/108367-official-3rd-gen-4runners-35s-pic-thread.html

 

[Matt Vee]

I found a set of 255/85 R16 Toyo open countries in the workshop today. I offered them up to the truck next to the wheel that was already on and the looked like they would fit alright.
255/85 R16 is 33" isn't it?
There's also a set of 265/26 R16 BFG Mud terrains, any opinions of which is a better tire?

 

[Matt Vee]

Also what are the real world effects of removing ARB's, does it adversely effect the road handling? I noticed they are only about the same size as a Jimny ARB on a considerably heavier vehicle, are they just an add on shiny thing offered as an optional extra that actually does nothing in reality or do they actually work to prevent body roll?

 

[Eforbes]

I’m currently running with out ARB’s (~3000miles) and in all honesty it hasn’t made a noticeable difference. The 255/85s I’ve got are toyos aswell I ran them on my Land Rover before and they were great tyres, your correct they measure roughly 33” tall

 

[Shayne]

Removing the arbs certainley makes no difference on road if you have upgrade suspension , and it free's up some travel off road .

In my view the arb's primary purpose is to lift the unnaffected wheel when the opposite side wheel takes a suspension compressing clout . I can picture it but i'm struggling to explain it . Imagine curbing a wheel at 70mph when the opposite (independant) suspension compresses in sympathy it reduces the bounce hopefully meaning you come to a stop the right way up .

 

[Matt Vee]

Cool, thanks dudes, what about with standard factory suspension?

 

[Matt Vee]

Also a cursory glance at doing a solid axle swap, I suggest it is not that much of a big deal as long as one can find a 70 axle/steering shit and assuming the 70 axle is the same track as the 90, which I'm betting it is.
Probably easier to just buy a 70 as long as one has a whole bunch of money just kicking about

 

[Shayne]

Cool, thanks dudes, what about with standard factory suspension?

Remove a drop link front and rear and it should tell you all you need to know .

I've fantasized about an SAS conversion and ultimately decided a body swap makes more sense so you get a 70 drivetrain but it looks like a 90 . A hell of a lots of work for not much gain i reckon .

 

[Matt Vee]

Remove a drop link front and rear and it should tell you all you need to know .

I've fantasized about an SAS conversion and ultimately decided a body swap makes more sense so you get a 70 drivetrain but it looks like a 90 . A hell of a lots of work for not much gain i reckon .

I concur